Ive been looking for a tractor for a few weeks and Ive priced my butt off looking.
Im beginning to think this is as big a job as landing a repo.
Im wondering first off why the green tractors are so high?
If you asked someone around here what was the best , it would be Kubota 9 outta ten times . They really do like them here . Not only that but every utility company does along with all kinds of goverment agencies.
This area is pro honda four wheelers and Kubota tractors.
Anyway , before you look for long you end up looking at imports . Then if you read very much they come from several diffrerent places . I looked at a Kioti Sunday as we have a dealership in town and they look just like Kubotas. Someone said they are just like them and the parts fit . Whats with it ?
Tim
Replies
i have a 55hp maverick 4wd and many kabota parts fit it... my lawyer keeps it on his farm and seems to like it... it's made in china... i got a deal on buy'n a few of em a couple years ago... friends ended up with all of them and no one is mad at me ...been 4-5 yrs...
i have a small green one that i've never started... but i believe it will ... jd 650 4wd... think it might be 20hp? i'd like to use it for my grass cut'n vs my zero turns... but ... just lack the time...
had an old ford 3000 i don't think those ever die
p
I guess the 3,000, 8N @7N? is the most popular there ever was ?
Tim
For what are you going to use your tractor?
8N and 9N Fords and similar TO20 and TO30 Fergusons of that era are fine for pulling stuff around - they do not have a 'live power take-off' which means they are poorly suited for mowing - you should be able to buy a servicable one of these tractors for ~$2K - same thing on the 'Golden Jubilee' Ford -
mid '50's, Ford introduced the 800 series tractors - most, but not all, have live power take-off and a 45hp engine - good durable simple tractors for the most part - the '900' series was a similar tractor that sets higher and is called a 'row crop' model - I actually have three of these, and do most of the orcharding with them-
in the '60's, the 800/900 was discontinued, replaced by the 'X000' series - 2000, 3000, 4000 etc - I'm not too familiar with them (too modern), but they are fords incarnation of the modern utility tractors - the recent ford '4610' is a favored orchard tractor, being relatively powerful and compact -
anyway - enough ramble -
"there's enough for everyone"
<For what are you going to use your tractor?>
Hey, I can appreciate the good grammer, especially in a tractor thread!
Forrest - Churchill said "That is something up with which I will not put!"
I appreciate the "ramble"
I could do well with you doing an educating thread.
Im slamming my head against the wall trying to make a decision.
Im gonna try to do what I do and steal one . DW said enough already, go buy a new Kubota! I told her I cant do that although its a solid decision for most people . If I make the wrong selection I want to make money on it anyway. So whether I flip it or keep it Ive got odds. I cant tell you what I need. One of my choices my interrest you though.
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This is a New Holland TN60A. Its low profile and wide which you probably already know . Its best for orchards, poultry houses, brush hogging , road side mowing . The reason I want it is to use in the mountains cleaning up land and commercial hogging. For me however its not very portable . My main interrest in this tractor is to steal it as its being set in at auction at 11,000. Its not an every day tractor although I hope it looks like it to other bidders. Its the only tractor Ive looked at that will work on the side of a mountain . Even then it needs wheel weights or tires filled. I like its power at 60 hp and fwd although the power is probably not needed for what I really need . But two tractor guys have declined working on the hill side.
Ive got a bunch of properties that need some work . Ive got mulitple other jobs to do which Ill have to buy several peices of equipment .County judge wants me to mow for him. The judge doesnt have to happen but if I got the top tractor its an option. I could probably get my work done with a 35 hp fwd with loader. Box blade , rock rake , hole diggers , back hoe , hog and finish mower. Maybe a tiller later. The above tractor is a lot of tractor for what I need .
If this is like houses the tractor will pick me meaning a deal and I wont pick the tractor. Of course it will have to be in the park of what I need. Id rather work with somthing for free till Im done and make a profit than anything . Trouble is I dont know tractors as well as houses and property. This is really a pretty big challenge for me without enough knowledge.
Tim
Edited 4/17/2007 12:31 am by Mooney
ya
so, you wanna do hillside work that two 'tractor guys' declined? - - there is a reason they turned down the money, you know - be careful - you do mention fluid in the tires, and this is necessary for any serious situations, for center of gravity purposes and traction - older tractors have no ROPS, so stay away from them and any that don't -
BH has a point about the loaders being clumsy - my neighbor has a MF (not sure of the model) with a detactable loader, takes one person about 5 minutes to remove, no lifting, cursing, or particular danger -
loaders are undeniably handy - but also put a strain on the drivetrain, as operators run into a pile of whatever until the wheels spin of the engine bogs - a 'shuttle' transmission is very desirable feature of a loader tractor, so you can change direction with out clutching/shifting gears -
hey - I like the looks of your prospective tractor - how many hours? - check for easy starting (if they've warmed it up before you try, it doesn't count), fluid leaks, particularly ones coming out of seep holes in the various castings (rear main seals, etc) these tend to be difficult/expensive to remedy -
they tend to clean up auction tractors, so let it run for as long as you can, check for leaks, drive it around and check for smooth operation of whatever clutch/transmission system it has - raise and lower all the cylinders several times (tho a leaky cylinder is not that big a deal) - look for pieces that have different color paint/fresh paint - that'll tell you what has been worked on before - I'm trying to think how to check if the 4wd is actually working, maybe someone else will chime in - driving around on the flat and level doesn't tell you much -
you'll never regret having the power so don't let that scare you - -
I gotta believe that the tractor would hold its value and is a steal at $11K
I'm prejudiced, and don't believe the chinese (cheap) tractors are a good value -
"there's enough for everyone"
What you and Boss said on the front end loader is noted.
I just dont see how I can think about construction work with no loader.
For the other thing I cant lift anymore so for me its a no brainer .
Besides I watched a product movie of how to remove and hook up a quick attach front end loader. 5 minutes?, somthin like that . I want that plus a quick attach bucket. Id like to try a front end rock rake/ grapple combination. It looks like the berries for transporting brush and limbs to a pile in the center the property for burning with out getting off the tractor hopefully. Also for loading firewood . If it will pick up rocks it will save a move .
That tractor has less than 300 hrs on it but I expect it to climb to 20,000. Its still a buy at 20 and yes 11 would be a steal but it wont sell for that . You might not believe how much tractors are right now if you havent checked.
I went to look at a 2005 case 35 hp 4whd with less tham 300 hrs on it last sunday with 7 implements which Ill need but the tractor looked like h$ll. I think a tree fell on it . Price on it was 12,500. The hood and the canopy was bashed in with the front and back lights knocked out .
Tim
If you get a loader, a universal quick-attach is a must. Shoving things around and lining pins up is a huge pain - Expecially if you can't lift, as you mentioned. The quick-attach thing allows you to pick things up and drop them pretty quickly.A loader bucket is only the beginning - There are tons of attachments that will make a loader more useful. Pallet forks come to mind. They're not just for pallets, but can be used to move brush and/or logs. They're handy for moving lumber and plywood. Even lifting shingles up to a roof.A quick attach loader is a good idea. Again, shoving things around in order to line up pins can be a real pain even for a young guy. That would also allow you to remove the laoder for mowing, so it wasn't in the way.
A witty saying proves nothing, but saying something pointless gets people's attention.
I went to look at a 2005 case 35 hp 4whd with less tham 300 hrs on it last sunday with 7 implements which Ill need but the tractor looked like h$ll. I think a tree fell on it . Price on it was 12,500. The hood and the canopy was bashed in with the front and back lights knocked out .
so, would you replace the sheet metal and lights to save $10K? - they sell new sheet metal, you know....
I don't know anything about the modern Case, so won't comment otherwise, but cosmetic damage is straightforward to repair -
have fun and remember that there are lots of tractors out there - if the fun is in the hunt, there is always another auction in a week or two -
OTOH, if the joy is the work getting done, I wouldn't let a few $ stand in the way of getting the unit I wanted -
"there's enough for everyone"
I have a late 90's NH 4430 Low narrow orchard tractor 4x4. Made in Europe for the orchard/vinyard/nursery industry It has an 80hp Fiat diesel & will handle 1 3/4 yd loader. It sets in to only 54" wide wheel clearance. 12 speed shuttle transmission foreward & reverse the same speeds. I love the power in this small size unit but on uneven ground had to set the wheels out to 66 in. Worst problem was tires are unavailable in USA. I had to find someone in Holand to buy them over there and ship to me by UPS.
Jim
Im traveling 200 miles Thursday to another auction and 200 miles back home to get a deal here ;
http://www.brinkleyauctions.com/
400 to 500 tractors are expected which is the largest tractor sale in this area of the country.
Tim
Edited 4/17/2007 12:38 am by Mooney
Tim,
The smaller John Deere tractors, made since about 1980, are actually made by Yanmar. 650, 750, 850, all the way up to 1450, I think. They're great work-horses, very reliable. Larger than that, they could be made in Germany, 2950 series. The 2640's, 2020's, 4020's, were all made in Moline, IL.
J.D. uses a "wet sleeve" engine block and planetary final drives. The wet sleeve engine makes for a fantastic rebuild. Just knock out each piston and cylinder, slip in a new one,, they come with the piston and rings already in the cylinder. Instant re-power job; well, almost.
My 2640 is worth as much today as it sold for new in 1978. Around here, a good 4020, built around 1968, is worth more than when it sold new. Open tractors are great for spraying and cultivating. The visibility can't be beat. Music and air is great, but if you need visibility, you don't want a cab.
I'd sure opt for diesel. The 8N's, 9N's, and Jubilee's that you'll find are going to be gas.
Greg
I'd sure opt for diesel.
Do diesels have a higher resale, most of the time?
Dave
Dave,
Diesels usually command a much better price, new or at resale. Torque, downright lugging ability for ground-engaging work is much superior. Harrowing, bottom plowing, etc. eats up a lot of horsepower.
Personally, I'd avoid the 8N, 9N or Jubilee or Ford Dexta. Think about it - these things are over 50 years old ! The Jubilee is from 1953. Unless you're looking for a museum piece, move on to something newer. Parts availability is getting tougher, and they're pricing 8N parts like old Mustang parts. And the front ends are notoriously weak.
Ford 5000 is a good all-around mid-size tractor. You can find them in gas or diesel.
Tim, does Arkansas have a State Department of Agriculture paper like our Georgia Farmers and Consumers Market Bulletin ? ? This is a weekly paper, about 16 pages of ads for equipment, farm commodities, cattle, swine, etc. It's full of stuff for sale or trade. I'll send you one, if you like. Or check with your Dept. of Agriculture. I'll bet they have the same thing.
Greg
I'd sure opt for diesel. The 8N's, 9N's, and Jubilee's that you'll find are going to be gas.
true that many of the older utilities will be gas, but for occasional use, gasoline has some advantages - easy to buy fuel for one - (should) starts easier in cold weather - cheaper to work on or rebuild should it be necessary - doesn't stink as bad (debatable) -
daily workhorse, I agree with you -
"there's enough for everyone"
The early John Deere models that you listed were made by Yanmar. The later models have Yanmar engines but most of the rest of the tractor was no longer made by Yanmar. Don't remember what year(s) the change took place.I have a 25 year old Ford 1900 tractor with an engine made by Shibaura. It ran fine until last winter. I had put what I thought was B20 biodiesel in it but which was actually 100 percent biodiesel. It ran fine until the weather got cold and the biodiesel jelled. I have not had time to clean out the fuel system. The engines for the smaller New Holland tractors may still be made by Shibaura.I also have two American spec Yanmars, a YM155 and a YM186. These were imported into the US by Yanmar in the early to mid 1980s. Both are basic but reliable tractors - except that I need to do some work on the transmission of the YM186. For the tractors of that vintage, the general opinion seemed to be that Yanmar built the best engines, but that Kubota built the best tractors. Parts are still available for the Yanmar imported tractors at most John Deere parts departments. Parts for Yanmar gray market tractors are much harder to come by.These older tractors are generally pretty basic, and so are great for DIY mechanical types. There is a lot of inforation on the Web regarding tractors. Some limited information on a wide range of tractors is available at:
http://www.tractordata.com/
You can't have a thread about tractors without me chiming in.(-:The #1 thing you need to consider is dealer support. There's nothing more frustrating than needing a part and not having a dealer within 40 miles. I'm not personally a fan of loaders - At least not on smaller tractors. They're really hard on front axles. They're constantly in the way when you're turning in tight quarters. They add a lot of weight to the front end, which means you have a lot less traction in soft conditions. (Unless you buy 4WD)4WD is obviously handy on occasion. Personally I don't think it's worth the added cost unless you're working in soft conditions a lot. It's expensive, and is just another maintenance problem and expense.Are you gonna be trailering it? If you are, consider the weight and length when figuring out what you want to haul. Someone mentioned the Forn "N" series and the older Fergusons. If you want to mow with the tractor, I'd stay away from those. The lack of live PTO makes mowing a real pain in the neck. If you do buy one, don't mow without an over-running clutch on the PTO. Otherwise the mower becomes a big flywheel pushing you along when you want to stop. You mentioned trying to "steal" one. My suggestion there is to buy what you freakin' WANT. You aren't gonna be around forever. No sense buying somethign you don't really want just because you saved a few bucks.That's all I can think of for now.
I got a great deal on a rhetorical phone. It never needs to be answered.
"You mentioned trying to "steal" one. My suggestion there is to buy what you freakin' WANT. You aren't gonna be around forever. No sense buying somethign you don't really want just because you saved a few bucks."
Thats DWS arguemant as well .
I cant do it , you two just dont understand .
Tim
That was kind of the response I was expecting.Did you read the story of where I told my Dad he should buy himself a new pickup truck? If you want to read it, you can find it here:http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=54154.1My point to him was that he wouldn't be around indefinietly, and he should get a pickup while he could. Now I'm telling you basically the same thing. Your hard head is the only thing keeping you from getting what you want.
Plunder globally. Manage media locally.
You would probably be very happy with the TN60. Our family farm has two TN70's, one with a loader. We had a 60 & a 70 but traded up after a year to get the second 70. More HP, same tractor, I believe the engine was the same, only an added turbo. Depending on your situation, the HP may not be a factor.
Contrary to BH, a loader is worth the extra $ and wear. You may find that it is a great labor saver when unloading stuff from the back of a pickup bed, putting shingles up to a one story roof, moving heavy stuff around, and a thousand other things that you haven't thought of yet.
The loader pictured is the same as we have and the bucket can be changed out in about 30 seconds. We alternate the bucket with a round bale prong for feeding cattle. The switch takes about a minute or less by one person with no lifting, cursing, or hammering needed, a big change from the loader on the old tractor. <g>.
Hope this helps a little and good luck in your tractor safari. I understand your enjoyment of the thrill of the hunt. <g>.
Still lurking after all these years.
Tim, I don't think you can go wrong with Deere or Kubota, Mahindra is popular around here, but I don't know if they are any cheaper.In my experience if you are planning to steal, you will end up with a 100hp tractor. At least around here, all the 5 acre ranch owners NEED a 30-70 hp tractor and I've never seen one go cheap.Dewitt Auction up in Sikeston, MO has a big auction the first monday of the month, I know you are in AR, but don't know where.edit to add, A bigger tractor may not be a bad thing, you can stretch them wider for mountain work, and all the attachments available will be as plentiful and prob cheaper than for the smaller ones.Heck I've got a 1130 massey with a loader I'll sell ya, how much you wanna spend?A medium to large guy named Alan, not an ambiguous female....
NOT that there is anything wrong with that.
Edited 4/17/2007 8:38 am by bigal4102
"I've got a 1130 massey with a loader I'll sell ya"
Don't tease me like that.
Where are you located ???
People pay more attention to you when they think you're up to something.
I'm to far from you Boss...I'm way over in Olney, IL... ;)A medium to large guy named Alan, not an ambiguous female....
NOT that there is anything wrong with that.
Sorry - I forgot you were in Olney. But heck, it isn't THAT far away. My Uncle bought an MF 180 to run a big round baler, and it doesn't have quite enough HP. So he was thinking about getting something a little bigger. We have a dually and 16' gooseneck available, so getting it wouldn't be a big deal. I'll ask him if he's at all interested if you're serious about selling it.Do you have pictures and a price?
You can't have everything. Where would you put it?
Yeah Boss I should sell it, I almost never use it.I have access to 2 nice backhoes, and it sure doesn't do any fieldwork anymore.I don't have any idea on price, but I'll shoot some pictures if you want to make an offer...I won't be offended.A medium to large guy named Alan, not an ambiguous female....
NOT that there is anything wrong with that.
Shoot me the pics and I'll pass 'em along. If he's at all interested I'll contact you and we'll see what we can figure out.BTW - Are ya in the market for a REALLY nice backhoe? A cousin has a nice Cat brand machine for sale for $45,000. Trouble is, when ya get into a price range that high it weeds out most of the prospective buyers....
I'm Easy To Please.
As Long As I Get My Way
Mooney,, I do . Well at least I have a clear understanding of why you can't. It is the polar opposite of why I care less about profit and business beyond just making enough to get by in life and can't charge more than I feel right. Just the way we are. So go for it, your enjoyment in life comes as much from the "steal" and money gained as any other single thing.;-)
I agree with Boss, get what you want now. dont wait until you figure out your compromising did'nt pay off. a tractor is one of the few things in life worth going out on a limb for. the more tractor you got the easier your life becomes
I dont agree with buying a non-4wd unit. without that I'd be winching that buggar out way too often
I got a JD 4400 with the works. curtis cab w/heat, split bucket, hoe, mid and rear pto, 4 way plow. I bought one of them pto generators from northern for a grand and mounted it on a small trailer, it'll give me 13kw
my jd 4400 is very comparable to the kubota L35. I was looking for a Kubota since I had used one quite frequently and between you and me it is the better machine, but I came across a deal I couldnt refuse. no regrets
the more tractor you got the easier your life becomes...
shouldn't that be tractorS - plural<G>
Re Kubotas:
My next door neighbor had a full size case hoe and also a case crawler and dump truck.
He just turned 84, and sold them all, and bought a tiny Kubota a month ago. His rationale was that he was getting to old to service the big stuff and if he needed full size he could just ask his 'next door neighbor' <G>
BTW, he tried to pull some small roots with the Kubota last week and literally BENT the outer bucket teeth!
The builder across the street has a cheap tractor and bought a backhoe atachment . It has a front end loader but I dont know what kind but it has to be another brand .
So far hes had his cylnders bent on the front end twice and once on the back hoe.
He made the statement that he guessed he had too much power for attachments.
Could be operator error too but I think the equipment on the tractor is too cheap as its failing .
This was a week ago we talked and we both mentioned wanting an L48. His plumber has one and says he cant keep hoses on it . Thats probably operator error too but blowing hoses is better to me than bending equipment .
I looked at a lot of off brand tractors at the auction and had to wonder how strong they were . Of course Kubota is an off brand as well. Theres too many brands to keep up with it .
Im going to share a site that was a big help and is also a lot of fun in finding out about just about any tractor.
http://www.tractordata.com/td/td1782.html
The #1 thing you need to consider is dealer support.
Wadda ya need dealer support for when nothing goes wrong?
I bought my Kubota new back in '79. I gotta admit it's now in the shop. For the first time in those 28 years! I've beat the crap out that thing like a red-headed step child.
Probably could sell it now for 75% of what I paid for it.
The 4x4 is also a near requirement when you live in hilly or mountain country, especially if you are going to use it to move snow.
"Doubt is not a pleasant condition, but certainty is absurd."
~ Voltaire
What's this tractor worth? Mid 1970's David Brown 1212. I have a 4WD 1210 just like it also.
I know it's not green!!!
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I can't really say, for a couple of reasons. First - Tractor values vary a lot from one place to another. Around here it would go fairly cheap. Near a suburban area where there are people who own 5 acres and have lots of money, and the price could double. Second - I've never had any dealings with that brand. Someone who likes that brand wil pay more than someone who doesn't.Offhand, I'd say it's worth no less than $2000, but no more than $5,000.
T-shirt: Not A Significant Source of Help Around The House
As always, what you can get someone to pay for it.
For a better answer, check out the Lancaster Farming newspaper. (Google it.) Possibly no one else has as many used tractor ads.
Mooney,
I've never understood buying at an auction..
You "win" if you are willing to pay more for something than anyone else. you loose if you drop out at a reasonable price..
Too often when I had to attend auctions to defend the brand* my ceiling price was the opening bid or below the opening bid.. In fact in 16 years of doing this I've never bought a single piece of equipment.
I'm amased at how much two bidders will pay for equipment. Bidding normally seems to stop about 10% over retail price and I've seen it go well above that number..
The most insane of all is the older equipment needing work. Often the parts alone will exceed what you can stop at a dealer and buy a decent one for let alone what they pay the auction house..
But hey, what do I know I've just been doing this for 16 years. I politely nod my head and tell them what a wonderful buy they got all the time handing them my business card so they know where to buy parts from.. PS parts are the profit center of most equipment dealers.. sales usually loses money..
* defending the brand is the practice dealers have of keeping used equipment prices up. You know where the wholesale value is if you watch the dealers rep bid.. when he stops bidding it's past it's wholesale value.. You are now working at the price level you can buy it from a dealer at, usually with some sort of warrantee and often with financing supported by the factory." Oh, I have cash",,, YEH? often the cash you have could be used for other things and the money you borrow is underwritten by the factory to help sell equipment.. (another words it's cheaper than cash)
Now that would be a class debate between us on pros and cons of auctions.
I deleted a long response because it might reflect I dont appreciate your reply.
Thanks for the reply.
I check.
Tim
When you turn your nose up to Auctions, you are snubbing some real fine Americana and, if you're savvy, some good bargains.
I love auctions, with a good auctioneer....I've bought livestock, horse harness, industrial equipment, tools, artwork, etc. I've attended farm auctions, wood products mill equipment closure auctions, estate auction, boat and car auctions, aircraft auctions....whether I was there to buy or not....always a fun day.
I've been burned a couple of times when I was new at it and the items were small, but I've made some great deals.
Auctions are more than just buying stuff...they're a social event....and usually entertaining.
A lot of the used logging and construction equipment here in the PNW is sold by auction and, because the prospective buyers know their needs and take the time to inspect the equipment, there are seldom winners or losers...they either get the piece they're after at the price they're willing to pay or they back off before their budget is exceeded.
I can understand someone selling new equipment having no interest in auctions, but auctions certainly serve a purpose in all their forms.
You need to get out more, Frenchy. :-)
Notchman,
I do apologize if it seems I'm attacking your favorite hobby. I have no intentions of doing so.. I attend too many auctions for them to be a pleasure*. But if you enjoy it well, good for you!
As I said as a rep of the factory we are required to "defend" the brand (Caterpillar came up with that one) the goal is to maintain the used market to provide a solid used market to establish lease rates.. Auction prices are reported and determine book values more often than dealer sales do..
In addition I sell a lot of used equipment, some of it is barely a step from the scrap yard.. (at Caterpillar I could even "buy" scrap equipment That's one of their major profit centers) The prices I sell it at is usually lower than typical auction reports. (in addition private party sales are almost always higher than I can sell the same thing for with a warrantee and financing, Everybody deals like crazy when dealing with the dealership and they rarely are as aggressive with their friends).
As for bargins? Since I did not attend every auction you have I cannot fairly comment, I will respond because I have three reasons I attend auctions..
First if the equipment being sold is either financed by us or we signed the sale with recourse. I then am required to start bidding at our buy out #
Second, if the equipment is being sold at less than wholesale value it makes sense that we should aquire it to make a profit.
Third, Factories treat dealers who defend their product to special considerations.. That varies across the spectrum.. sometimes we are allowed to buy at special discounts, sometimes they share marketing costs, We may get preferential deliveries, whatever.. it's well worth our time.. .
Since my face is familar with most auctioners they have learned both to use me and to help me.. they help me by grouping any equipment I might be interested in together so an all day affair only takes an hour or less.
I help them by starting off with my best offer to begin with, that sets the punters up to start bidding against each other. (remember auctions are usally paid a percentage of the sale so the more things sell for the more they make)
You'd be amazed at how often punters are reluctant to make the first bid and only respond after the ice is broken so to speak. It's gotten to the point where I see the same factory reps there, the Case guy, the John Deere guy, etc.. We're careful not to show up wearing company threads, but if you've done this sort of thing as long as I have you recognize them all..
If you know the face of your local dealer don't be surprised if he's there, he may not bid if the price starts out above his number. Frankly it's a pain to buy at auctions.
Bargins? Well just like beauty, it's in the eye of the beholder.. I look at equipment. I've usually checked to ensure the recalls have been performed and all the updates done. You'd be surprised at the number of people who won't even bring their equipment in for free updates or recalls. If the unit was sold outside of our territory and brought in, I may not have access to the records depending on the selling dealer. Now I have to use my judgement and experiance. Is the new plate welded in place? is the double washer on the top lug there? Whatever exterior indication there may be I have to go by that indicator.. Is the recalled seatbelt in place and the paint around the hubs scratched it may indicate the updated bearings and seals were installed.. It can be thousands of dollars differance in it's value..
In addition I know for example that those tires are worth an additional $2200.00 but the lack of auxiary hydraulics decrease it's value by $5500.00.
I know the tricks to telling if it's factory installed hour meter or a replacement. I can tell within a hundred hours how many total hours that unit has on it.. not what the meter says, what it actually has..
The 8N had a 1 1/8" power takeoff, I needed to put a 1 3/8" adapter on it for the accessories. Good tractor in its day. I understand about 100,000 of them were made from 1948 to 1951.Hard to get parts today, especially steering gears .Not familiar with 7N, only the 8N and 9N.If I recall the golden jubilee was the 8N with two connected transmissions ,good for planting as you can slow the speed down to a crawl.
mike
"Hard to get parts today"
Have you tried lately?
Since they've become collectable, there's all kinds of aftermarket stuff available. Junkyards that used to cut them up for scrap are now keeping them for parts.
Ever heard of the "Zane Thang"? You can even have position control on them now.
Yesterday's Tractors has a message board for the Forn "N" series at: http://www.ytmag.com/nboard/wwwboard1.html
BTW - There was an 8N, 9N, and a 2N. There never was a 7N.
Periods of tranquility are seldom prolific of creative achievement. Mankind has to be stirred up.
A little Trivia here, Ron. We had two old Dexta's at my college - donated by Ford Motor Company. I think they were both diesels, the memory is a little foggy after 28 years.
The dang things had HORNS ! A little push button right between your knees. BEEP, BEEP ! !
Greg
Haven't farmed since 1987. I thought I read 7N on the post, must have been the 2N.
I paid $800.00 for the 8N in the early 70's, still surprised at the prices gotten for old tractors.Sold the farm and equipment in 1987.
mike
If I recall the golden jubilee was the 8N with two connected transmissions...
I believe the golden jubilee shares only a few parts with the earlier N series - the GJ had a new overhead valve engine and live hydraulics - it was also physically bigger, I believe -
the GJ as stock had a 4 speed transmission and no live PTO - I do believe the transmission shared parts with the 8N - but, the Sherman Brothers (who had a in with Henry F) produced an add-on transmission, and because of their relationship with Ford, the tractors could be ordered with various Sherman accessories - the most popular was the Sherman 'Hi-Lo' transmission that added a high range and low range to the standard range, for 12 speeds forward and 3 reverse -
Dad had a Golden Jubilee that I used in the 60's and 70's until he traded it in on a 175 Ferguson - it was alright for dragging stuff around, but no live PTO meant it sucked for mowing - didn't miss it much -
"there's enough for everyone"
I've got a couple of Kubota excavators which are top notch....
As far as their tractors, to the best of my knowledge they have the best resale value of any in the field.
i don't get the green either,but i have a bil that is what he buys. he will use it for 5 years and sell it for more than a different color tractor sells for new. they seem to just have a cult following.
if i was going import i would have to stay in kabota or some other "name brand" i learned my lesson in life early,saved my money and bought the coolest minibike i ever saw,completely different from all my buddies with briggs and stratton. 1 week parts start breaking,i order them, as far as i know there still on order 40 years later. maybe i ought to call and see if there in,believe it or not the guy is still around. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
Cool story.
Ive done the same thing and ended up in a useless situation. Ive got heavy table saws . Two of them. Now I cant lift after the H surgery, but I still own them.
Tim
We first bought a grey market Yanmar - great little tractor - the price was right - I am sure it is still going strong somewhere.
Then after a few years we wanted something new, bigger, loader etc.
John Deere, Kubota, New Holland were all priced about the same.
We had a great dealer that we came to trust who cut us an amazing deal on a new JD - Hydrostatic, 4wd, loader (3 options I would highly recommend) and I would insist on diesel - the power in that little 27 hp tractor is amazing.
I bought Green mainly because there's a good dealer 3 miles down the road. A good, responsive, servicing dealer nearby should be in your top 3 list of reasons to buy whichever brand you choose.
I also found the ergonomics of the green machine to be more to my liking than the others; pedal locations, changing implements...all the stuff you have to live with day in and day out that will make you love it or hate it.
My dealer let me use a tractor at my house for almost a month before making a decision - I bought it. After 2 years I could still sell for close what I paid for it.
Here's a great site for all things tractor - including buying info http://tractorbynet.com/ but be forwarned, if you ask this same question over there, there's a very good likelyhood it will become something akin to a Festool/EZ slug fest.
-Norm
Try.... tractorbynet.com ....a very helpful forum.
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SamT
Praise the Corporation, for the Corporations' highest concern is the well being of the public.
Yup , thats what we were talking about .
I attended the auction and bought a Kubota L48TLB construction backhoe. The backhoe removes and has a three point hitch , pto.
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Around here, Kubotas are mostly seen as toys.(-:Looks like that has a heavier front axle than a regular tractor. That's definitely a good thing. How many HP does it have? What kind of tranny? How many gears?Us tractor guys like details....
The proof of liberal virtue is generousity with other people's money. [George Will]
http://www.kubota.com/f/products/l48_Specs.pdf
Most people consider them toys but they actually make some very big tractors , 100 horse or so. They are popular here but most people think small tractor if they dont know so there is truth to what you said. They have a small tractor image.
This tractor is 48hp . It has huge axles for its size as I just looked at over 500 tractors and probably 100 in this range. Its rated industrial. All L series , TLBs are even the L21TLB which is only 20 hp. Those little guys are sitting at rental yards near you everywhere. You can look at a TLB beside the same HP tractor of a different series and really tell the difference.
Its hydrostat in three ranges which means it drives like a pickup with an automatic. I like it and dont like it but on a backhoe its critical to being a must. Ive rented these machines a lot though Ive never owned one till now. The 21 and 48 are just about alike as they have HST while the discontinued 35 has 8 ranges I believe with a shuttle shift. They have just come out with a L39TLB to replace the 35. I havent read what they changed. All have PTO and three point lift plus they have an easy disconnect to the backhoe which reminds me of that new quick hitch and go they are selling now in three point series.
I didnt think these tractors would stay on the market because they are expensive when new. An old rule of thumb used to be 1,000 dollars per hp. The 21 believe it or not is the top seller . They are hauled by plumbers and owned by rental yards mainly. I think they are over what I said and the 48 is under at 46000 dollars for a new 48. Thats too much money for someone that just needs a tractor.
Im not sure about the 35s and 39s. Several builders have them in addtion to the ones I mentioned and some people are buying them as an multiuse tractors.
I never thought I could afford or justify a 48. I bought it for half price with 1120 or 30 hrs. Thats still a big price to pay for me . I wouldnt even reccomend it . I made a decision of use and hope it pays me back. I could have bought the same hp tractor with out a hoe much cheaper. I think this tractor will hire out with a big hoe or a notch down which is what Im planning to do and work for the public in addtion to my work. Its the most multiuse tractor for a contractor to have for sure . Im told it will handle a 6 ft hog well and the rest in 6 ft range. It is also heavy enough to handle a side mower in 5 ft. It has a cage I call it under it that stays there even with the hoe off but is built to stabilize the tractor with the hoe on. It should help hold the tractor down and give it extra traction. It weighs 6700 lbs in full dress. It has a quick attach bob cat bucket which is handy for what you were talking about .
Tim
I know BH was pulling your leg about them being toys; in truth Kubodas are serious machines and out perform and outlast most competitors in their size range.
I see very few in the rental yards because they do cost a bit more; Bobcat seems to be the rent-machine of choice out here.
I've operated a number of different sized excavators of various brands, but in the small range, the Kuboda kicks butt.
Last year I bought two of them which I lease to a local sub and he's totally sold on them for speed, reliability and ease on the operator.
A friend of mine bought the identical machine as yours last year along with an array of attachments. The only problem he has with the machine is operator error. He's an engineer and has only designed things, not operated them and his machine is amassing a lot of battle scars. Still runs fine, though!
Has you friend mentioned how much time it takes him to rehook the hoe ?
Ill respond more later guys . Ive got comapny and Im suposed to be on a pee break.
Tim
Tim, I've got a 7610, a 24 HP model that I use mostly for mowing with a belly mower. I've also got a sub frame mount back hoe. The tractor is considered too light for a three point mount.I can install the front loader (5 min.), remove the belly mower (5 min. or less), remove the three point lift arms and bolt on the front mount for the sub frame (15 min.), back up to the back hoe, hook up the hoe and sub frame, attach two hydraulic connections ( 15 or 20 min.) and be ready to work in about an hour. There are a lot of grease zerks to hit about every 10 hours or so.I was told that your model of tractor would be a lot faster at change over than mine. With practice you will become faster at removing and attaching the loader and hoe.I don't know how I did any thing before I got the loader. I use it for every thing. I have a back blade that I use with the front loader for grading and snow removal.I think that you will appreciate the all wheel drive in the winter or in the mud.Chuck
I went to a potluck tonight where I hoped to encounter my engineer friend with the Kuboda. He wasn't there, so I asked his DW (who actually has a better sense of mechanical things than her Hubby).
She said that, when he first got the tractor, attaching or dropping the hoe was about a thirty minute process, but he's now got it down to about 5-10 minutes to make the switch.
Thanks .
tim,has the " i love chasing the good buy" blues hit yet. i swear when i'm looking hard for something and find it and get it home, i almost am dissapointed that i don't get to look anymore.
sounds like a good tractor, but you know how it goes now,you need a implement trailer with about a 12k gvw. soon as you find that then you need a bigger truck to pull the tractor and trailer,in matching colors!
so many things to buy and so little money .thats my life larryhand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
I dont know exactly why but IM in a little anquish over this decision.
Im getting , "you didnt need that much tractor" or "you didnt need one at all."
You are right . I put 650.00 in my trailer before I left for the sale . I only paid 600 for this trailer and replaced the floor a year ago in addition . Ill never be able to sell this trailer now. I was going to use it to haul a smaller tractor.
Now as you said Ive got to have a bigger trailer with brakes and 8 to 10 ply tires.
I went to another auction today and just came back home after viewing . I looked at some used equipment but how do I know it even works? Post hole digger that looked good but was old brought nearly as much as a new but cheaper looking one. I dont have this type of knowledge so I didnt know if I could rebuild one of those or a brush hog if I got burned. Quite a humbling experience when the tables are turned.
So it looks like new equipment is in order and that will raise the value up with out being able to recover it unless it makes money. Im not sure it will and Im not used to being in the unknown category. I also think I gave plenty for the hoe . Roll the dice. 50 50 baby. At least Im 50 50, but Im used to 60 40 . Crap game I dont often find my self in.
Tim
i paid to much for the last ho too.oh sorry wrong kinda ho!
i think i read in your post that it will take skid steer buckets. does it have front aux hydraulics? if so it sounds like you could use regeular skid steer attachments. here you can rent some of that stuff really reasonable. for my skid steer i have rented a trencher,95.00 a day,post hole digger 55.00,the jack hammer is kinda high 175. but if you have a hoe you wouldn't need that anyway.i like owning that kinda stuff,but first i don't use it alot and secondly if you have that equipment you have to keep it stored inside or someone will grab it some night.
when i bought mt bobcat i thought i might do a little for hire work. got to thinking i would need inurance on bobcat,then the truck probably would need diiferent ins becuase it's towing a for hire piece of equipment etc. my luck i would dig up a fiber optic line first day. so i gave up on the idea. just something to think about. i'm reading a book right now that someone here recommended "it pays to be paranoid" after you read it i don't think i'll every leave the house again,so many things that you never think about .
i'm not sure this would be a problem with the kubota,but when i got the bobcat home within 1 week people were asking to borrow it. lots of friends all of a sudden. if it was truly a buddy i would just go over there and do it for them. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
From my studies, Kubotas don't offer the high hydralic volumes needed for those attachments. i.e., snowblowers.
Im very up front to people borrowing and am not bashful. I explain it and tell them the truth.
I loan some things while other things I wont . The tractor will be one as you say if its a friend I will operate it for nothing rather than loan it out .
As a matter of fact Ive been thinking about insurance tonight . I dont have any that covers it so it would be additional. Calling before you dig covers hitting lines , but not personal property . I hit my own house once with a backhoe I rented . Hopefully it only takes one time to learn that mistake well enough not to do it again. Then I remember the guy that sawed his thumb off in the joiner and was showing someone how he did it and took his other thumb.
Tim
Lets talk about implements.
Id like to ask about rock rakes and get a run down on them?
Box blade and angle straight blade?
The best doggone hog out there ? Best for the money for another question?
What about tillers versus disks?
Whats the scoop on drag cultivators? There are several different types. How well do they work?
Its in my main concern to clean up property and flip it buying the grown up stuff .
Tim
Rakes: appear pretty generic. I like the 3 pt hitch mounted one cause it can float. I like to angle the rake sometimes - helpful when clearing. You should be able to handle a 6 to 7 footer.
Backblades. I'm familar with Woods. Also 3 pt hitcher with angle adjustment.
Back buckets. Sometimes it's easier to back into a pile of soil or boulder for tranport. Makes distribution of the load easier than a front bucket. Faster to change. Easy to lift the front end with too much of a load back there.
I've seen decent branch grinders that hook up to the PTO/3 pt hitch. Really clear out the underbrush. As well as genrators & ceement mixers.
No expereince with tillers or discs on this size tractor.
Mowers: I've used hogs and flails. The flail gives a nice finished cut, but is sensitive to being too low and scalloping. Requires frequent blade attention.
I'm a fan of the front blade/back blade combination for grading of drives and small roads. Toss on the rake if you need to bust up the surface first.
You might get a 6' snowblower to fit on your's. That'll clean out access quick.
I noticed my Kubota dealer would frequently carry alternative brands of implements other than Kubota. I'm assuming they would know which is a better value.
I also note they have unadvertised or even unknown attachments that you gotta ask about. Fer instance, those snowblowers. They have manual controls over the rotation and end chute baffles. Upon asking, we find out there are hydraulic ones available as an option.
Just a thought to add on the rakes - york makes the best ones - they have wheels far on the back - essential for anything to turn out smooth. Otherwise the rake will lift a corner when you hit a bump and leave half the rocks you were raking.
I like the drawbar hitch, but on the three points so you can raise lower from the tractor.
I have to borrow this arrangement - since mine is the straight 3-point rake - still useful, but yorks with wheels are the best. Some even have a grader blade that drops into place - nice for driveways.
Contrary to other advice, I like my box blade, b/c it holds material and you can feather it to drop a thin layer w/no side spill-out.
Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
I saw those wheels sold as an option and wondered about it .
Tim
Google "york rake" and you'll see their setups - pricey, but you get what you...
How does your tractor ride with the backhoe? Does it bounce much?
Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
"How does your tractor ride with the backhoe? Does it bounce much?"
Strikes me funny you ask as I havent gave it a chance to bounce.
It worked for me a half day today and the other part I worked on it .
Ive just been easing it around .
Ive only worked the front end and was impressed with that and the power of the tractor .
I laid the hoe down to grease it but thats the extent of that .
Its been in at a residential addtion at my house . I picked up a trailer load of rocks next door and pushed a tree that was down. It loaded the tree after it was cut up at the street. All done in 1rst range.
So no bouncy yet . <G>
I know fully well the bounce youre talking about as I rode it on a case back hoe for years. Why did ya ask?
Tim
I used a case backhoe too - the bounce was when I used the loader - I think the weight from the hoe was the culprit.
Just curious.
Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
With rear mounted mowers, the best brands by far are Brush Hog and Woods. Anythng else is likely a cheap knockoff. With the HP you've got, I'd suggest a 6' wide mower. A 5' one won't cover your wheel tracks..With rear mounted blades - Once again I have some strong opinions. (-:I've met a lot of people who think a rear mounted blade is all but worthless, and a loader is much better. I think that's mainly because they buy cheap, half-assed blades. When I bought my blade, I bought the biggest one I could actually pick up and still keep the front end of the tractor on the ground. It's a 7' blade made for a 70 HP tractor. It also has manual tilt and swing options - Something you don't get on cheap blades. If I bought that same blade today, I'd guess it would run about $1,250 or so.You can go to farm supply stores and buy 5' blades for roughly $250. But they're absolutely worthless for anything but light snow. With the HP and weight you have, I'd suggest an 8' blade. My 30 HP tractor will pick up an 8' blade, but I can grab the front end of the tractor and pick it up off the ground. So yours oughta be able to handle it O.K.If you can afford it, hydraulic angle cylinders are great. Sure beats getting on and off the tractor and beating pins in and out of holes to change angles..I'm not a big fan of box blades. Having the teeth is nice for breaking up and moving dirt. And when you're pulling dirt its's nice that you don't lose too much off the sides.But you give up the tilt and angle capabilities that make rear mounted blade so versatile, IMHO. I own one, but rarely use it.
Affluence trivializes, excessive affluence trivializes to the absurd. [Dren Geer]
Ive got a dozer pile that has went to dirt . Its pretty long. DW and I hauled some building rocks up on that lot that over looks the river tonight . We were sitting on the picnic table discussing it . Ive got a backhoe that could pull it down but its pretty big . I can mow over it so its not humped high. I thought of a box blade around and around . One thing yall havent commented on is the different plows.
If I had that pile softened up I could scoop it from the front end . Might be able to do it anyway. I rented a full size New Holland hoe with 4whd and it could scoop rare earth with grass up in one pass. When I get my hoe out there Ill see what it can do but Im not expecting to be plowing up grass and top soil with the front end.
I went to an auction Sat and was talking to a guy that had been there done it . He preferred the blade too and an over sized one for sure like you said . His can be off set somehow where 2 ft of blade is on his left side. He said its handy for clening out fence rows. He takes briars and honey suckle out off driveways which here weve got some long ones in the country so we have to maintain them to. Lots of grading and filling .
Tim
I'll chime in on mowers, one thing with which I have quite a bit of familiarity - -
BH mentioned 'Woods' brand, and I'll second him on that - we've used Woods mowers for years -
Woods makes a full line of mowers, and I want to recomend a 'C80' or 'O80' (it's been a few years, model #'s may have changed) - both cut an 80" swath, which is about right for your horsepower - the 'C80' is a pull behind with two spindles - the 'O80' is similar, but offset - what I use for mowing orchard - reaches under trees a bit -
one thing that makes them the good tools they are is that the PTO drives a gearbox, which turns a 4 belt pulley, the belts then driving the spindles - this speeds up the spindles, which makes for a clean cut and lots of capacity -- the knives (two per spindle) are each secured by a single pin, which allows them to fold back if the mower starts to clog up - the belts provide a measure of shock adsorbsion - this means less wear/tear on your tractors powertrain -
look for the hydraulic cylinder that allows you to adjust the heigth from the seat, and I'm partial to the solid tires, as they don't go flat -
good machines - but not cheap....
"there's enough for everyone"
Wow , thanks .
What about hydraulic post hole diggers?
Tim
Post hole diggers are one other thing I have a couple of opinions on. No big surprise there, huh ???(-:Are you thinking of a 3 point mounted model, or a loader frame mounted one?I've used PTO versions a lot. They sure are handy - Until you get one stuck. Of course - MF tractors have a "ground PTO", so you can put the tractor in reverse and spin one wheel to make it turn backwards. Your "toy" tractor likely doesn't have that option. (-:I've never used a hydraulicly powered model. They would certainly be easy to reverse. But I don't know if they turn slower because of being hydraulic or not.Keep in mind that the 3 point models are generally heavy and akward. Hooking them up is not easy. I've never worked around a loader frame mounted model, but I'd guess they would be easier to mount and dismount. You gonna build a new shed to keep all this stuff in?
The important thing is not to stop questioning. [Albert Einstein]
"You gonna build a new shed to keep all this stuff in?"
I need to . The one I was gonna buy would have parked in a shop I have already. This one wont go in as its to tall.
Tim
I have that problem too. As equipment accumulates, I have no place to keep it. So I have things stored at 5 different sheds on other people's property scattered over about a 5 mile area. Last month I told Dad I was gonna build a big shed behind his barn to store my stuff in. He wasn't impressed.(-:
Never eat more than you can lift. [Miss Piggy]
How old is your Dad?
My Dad would have loved it as he would have used it .
Tim
My Dad is 72. He already has a barn and sheds full of junk. I think he just wants to keep his junk the way it is, and doesn't want me to take over.
Let us endeavor to live that when we die, even the undertaker will be sorry. [Mark Twain]
Box Blades
I have the 30 series Midwest and like it. I adjust top link in to cut dirt, or out to grade stone with level being the starting point. There are hydraulic top links available, although I have never used one. One thing I like it for is backing onto a stone pile and dragging stone down the driveway instead of using the front bucket, I can haul stone and level without turning the tractor around.
http://www.midwestequipment.net/box_blades.htm
I have bent a $250 grader blade on ice with my old 2 wheel drive tractor.
Tillers:
Sometimes when it is dry you almost have to disk the clay in order to get through the crust, or my tiller will just bounce on top of the clay.
3 point Post Hole Diggers:
Down force can be an issue getting the auger started if it is dry out. I am not sure if the Kubota has this on the three point hitch. The Morton Building guys around here have theres mounted on the loader.
Previously mentioned tractorbynet forums are a good source for information.
Edited 4/24/2007 12:05 pm ET by bdeboer
"Down force can be an issue getting the auger started if it is dry out. I am not sure if the Kubota has this on the three point hitch. The Morton Building guys around here have theres mounted on the loader. "
Then you are talking about hydrallic.
Thanks.
Tim
Hydraulic for the front mount, like the augers for skid loaders. I have a 3 pt. hitch PTO driven Greenlee it works fine but some times you have to start the hole with a spud bar.
I can't remember if you've said - Do you have a 3rd hydraulic outlet? Or is your loader hooked up to your hydraulic outlets in back of the tractor?I suspect a hydraulic PHD (Post Hole Digger) on the loader frame would be great. But you have to have a place to hook up the hydraulic lines that's not already being used.They make switches and valves so you can use one line set for multiple thnigs, but they're a pain to use. BTW - I've only once in my life needed down pressure on a PHD. That was when we were trying to cut holes for a pole barn when the ground was frozen. The rest of the time they seem to cut in just fine.
Ambiguous headline: 2 SISTERS REUNITED AFTER 18 YEARS IN CHECKOUT COUNTER
Ive seen the third set of plugs on some tractors , I dont know about this one but Ill look. I dont remember seeing another set though.
Tim
Does your loader hook into the rear hydraulic hookups, or is it plumbed otherwise?If your loader doesn't use the rear connections, then adding a hydraulicly driven PHD wouldn't be a big deal.
Ambiguous headline: LANSING RESIDENTS CAN DROP OFF TREES
If I was starting off fresh in the tractor business, I would get only a Bush Hog, or Woods brand mower. Although there is a good brand that was made in Arkansas that used a rubber tire to turn a flywheel that the blades were mounted to, basically indestructible compared to a gearbox, but I can't remember the name. It would only be practical for really rough mowing...BIG sprouts and stuff.I am with Boss on the Angle blade, get a good heavy one, Bush Hog, or Woods. Kewanee and M&W used to make good ones also, but they might not be around anymore. Box blades are great for driveways, and they will carry material farther, but you can do almost anything with a good angle blade.Field cultivators, or chisel plows in your size range, are all gonna be basically the same old fence row stuff given up on by the local farmers, so it's all a matter of how bad a shape they are in, the less moving parts the better, so fixed gauge wheels and a mounted implement would be my recommendation. A good heavy harrow on the back of those implements, makes them 10 times as valuable.Another good tool would be a "harrogator" basically a big flat pull type harrow, that will correct alot of landscaping sins.Edited to Add.If TSC is your local "farm store", I would avoid most of their cultivators, and disks, and blades, they are cheap junk from my experience, unless you are just using the implements, lightly or occasionally.And of course I hate to say it, but most things John Deere are pretty good products implement wise, although you will usually pay a premium for them. A medium to large guy named Alan, not an ambiguous female....
NOT that there is anything wrong with that.
Edited 4/26/2007 11:18 am by bigal4102
"I hate to say it, but most things John Deere are pretty good products...."
Man, and I was JUST starting to like you.
(-:
The quality of a person's life is in direct proportion to their committment to excellence, regardless of their chosen field of endeavor. [Vince Lombardi]
I know it Boss, and I apologize, but in the interest of helping Tim, I thought the truth would be ok... just this once. :DWoods makes or used to make Deere's mowers and blades, rakes, etc.That makes them good invetments in two ways.Now, just to clear the air, I only own a JD hat, and am striving to get it as filthy and stinky as possible!!! :DA medium to large guy named Alan, not an ambiguous female....
NOT that there is anything wrong with that.
I guess I can let it slide once.(-:
Don't worry about people stealing your ideas. If your ideas are any good, you'll have to ram them down people's throats. [Howard Aiken]
Well lets see ;
I just got through working on de tractor.
I found a "tree" of inlets at the front of the cabin area. Theres plenty not being used if I knew which was which but I guess I could copy what the loader is doing. But on the other hand it looks like I might borrow the tilt of the loader it self . I dont have a clue .
I dont have an owners manual so its like looking at a puzzle right now . Im doing fairly poorly well figgureing everything out I guess.
Tim
Just a thought on your loader setup, since you apparently have several hose outlets - You might wanna mark the hoses and outlets somehow. Like put red paint on one hose and the corresponding outlet if goes into. Then mark the others with a different color. Otherwise when you hook your loader back up you have to juggle hoses around until the bucket works like ya want it to.
If you're in a boat that's moving away from the shore, it may appear to you that the shore is moving instead of you.
Land Pride makes good implements too as long as you don't get the light 15 series. We have a 25 series 6' rotary cutter (bush hog) that has taken LOTS of abuse and never let us down. The 15 series is HO grade and the 25 and 35 series is pro grade in my opinion. They've got nice boxes, rakes, pulverizers, etc.
If you are looking for a 3 pt. post hole digger, buy used. We bought ours used, used it very little, and then sold it when we got a hydraulic one for the skidsteers (don't use it much either). Down pressure is good. I stood on the 3 pt. auger many times with hard clay.
John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Landpride and Modern is popular here .
Several selling Land Pride around here .
Tim
Anyone got experience with somthing like this ?
View Image
This is an interresting site. Some of the tractors listed are an L48TLB Kubota pictured.
They sell the stuff that goes with the third power attachments. Looks like thats the place to get it done . At least understand it .
Tim
What site is interesting?I've seen those clamshell buckets, but never thought they were particularly useful. I have seen them get bent when the bucket hits something kinda sideways. Seems to me it adds cost, weight, and complexity but serves no real purpose.
Nothing revives the past so completely as a smell.
Opps , ever fergit ? happened to me lol.
http://www.wrlonginc.com/
This company is from near here, and they have some interesting stuff:http://worksaver.com/Unfortunately they only sell through dealers.
I once had a cookbook entitled, "When It's Smoking, It's Cooking, When It's Burnt, It's Done".
I'll throw in a vouch for Worksaver. I have their 6' rake with wheel kit and it was worth every dime of the $600 I paid for it. I probably have at least 600+ hrs of use on it and it's still as good as the day I bought it. I've upped my standards...so up yours
4-in-1 bucket is handy if you've got the use for it. Have to be careful because they can be easy to spring (bend) if abused.
I do have to ask why you are looking at a York rake? I've got a rake that I hardly use anymore since pulverizers came on the scene. Rakes do have their place. But for grading I usually prefer a pulverizer.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Would you care to show a pic of a pulverizer ? <G>
Sorry , I dont have a clue what it is ..
View ImageJohn
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
I used one of those on someone's yard last year. Didn't seem to do much of anything.
One test is worth a thousand expert opinions. [Bill Nye the Science Guy]
Ron,
It breaks up the hard ground, pulverizes the clods, levels, pulls of the larger rocks and leaves dimples for the seeds to wash into. Kind of does the same thing as a disk, box, rake, and cultipacker all in one and with fewer passes. When I first did yards, we disced for hours, graded with the box, and raked the yards.
I just bought a used Harley power rake on Ebay this winter. I can't wait to try it out. I've got 15-20 acres to seed. I'll hit it with the Harley and then seed with the Brillion.
View ImageJohn
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Thanks .
Now what does it do exactly?
Ive got a lot of big rocks to pick up.
Tim
That thing is supposed to work down lawns to prep them for seeding grass. IMHO they're O.K., but an old harrow section does about as well.
Prior to capitalism, the way people amassed great wealth was by looting, plundering, and enslaving their fellow man. Capitalism made it possible to become wealthy by serving your fellow man. [Walter Williams]
See the prior post to Boss. It won't pick up the rocks but it will rake up the larger ones. Rake will also do the same. Rockhound or Harley rake is the best.
View ImageJohn
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Thanks for taking the time to post the information.
I just thought I would drop a note to say things arent always the way they appear. LOL.
Ive worked my new used tractor two days now . In fact I was in the seat yesterday for 12 hrs and worked past dark with some awsome lights that thing has on it . Must be halogen er somthin. It lights up the area front and back. So I just kept working in the dark. Not a big deal really . Today I put in 8 full hours and IM about to drop in this chair .
We had a tornado move through here again and theres lots of damage . Im sick of digging stumps . It was good practice though that I needed . I hate to have started with a footing . <G> A guy could travel following storm damage and make a very good living with this tractor . Only exception it would need grapple forks in addtion to the front bucket.
I dont think the hydralics are as strong as they should be and IM suspect . While I didnt use a lot of the tractors power the dogs were weak not raising the tractor up to full height. MOre than once I tilted the front bucket back to break loose when I thought It should have raised up. Ill change the filters but Im suspecting the pump. A plumber who has the very same thing says he cant keep hoses on his . I dont think Ill be having that problem with this one any time soon. Im not sure if the hoe was at full power or not as I idled stumps out with it and never put it in a bind. I did however pick a stump up with the back end and carry it to the pile that was kinda big.
Im pleased with the fuel consumption not knowing if I should be pleased but I can afford the fuel. 6 gallons today working 8 hours. Again it did most of the work at an idle. I run it like I want it to last a long time and dont want to see it in a shop.
Over all it should be a good investment for a year till tax time is up . It will make money on my properties if it will sell with in 5 grand of what I paid . Then again its a nice toy to have around a long time .
Tim
As soon as I read what you said about the hydraulics I got to wondering about the filters. Lots of times filters get overlooked as a part of regular maintenance. Have you checked around for a parts and service manual for the thing? You shouldn't have much trouble finding on, as new as it is.
I was trying to daydream, but my mind kept wandering.
Ive been trying to order an owners manual and a repair manual , but the dealership hasnt returned three calls Ive made. That store is like 25 miles away. Theres another thats 65 miles I guess Ill go to so Ill call them tomorrow .
The internet says I can have both but I have to buy them at a dealer. Hmm.
I hope its filters.
Can pumps be rebuilt ? Ive got this feeling thats a bad question.
Tim
L48TLB manual
Thanks . I dont know how you came up with that site . Ive got a couple hours invested in searching the web . Nothing . LOts of sites say they sell manuals but dont have that one of course.
Stumbled across it once and bookmarked it. The price isn't bad compared to what a lot of manuals costs.
Kubota is a good tractor I've got a 4630 and had a 3650 prior to that. Sold my Masseys because they didn't have 4 wheel drive. Be glad that you've got the rear lights. Neither of my tractors came with rear lights other than taillights. I've had to add them.
I agree with Boss about maintenance. I would go over the whole machine and change all fluids and filters. You never know if the previous owner did any maintenance.
Weak stabilizers could just be that. I've run a few hoes that wouldn't easily lift themselves (especially if the loader is already down) without pushing down with the hoe. If the tractor digs fine, I wouldn't suspect weak hydraulics. Stumping is the best test for hydraulic power. We've broke buckets that way.
Ebay shows some L48 manuals. Search Kubota L48. John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
"Weak stabilizers could just be that. I've run a few hoes that wouldn't easily lift themselves (especially if the loader is already down) without pushing down with the hoe. If the tractor digs fine, I wouldn't suspect weak hydraulics. Stumping is the best test for hydraulic power. We've broke buckets that way."
What would make the stabilizer weak?
I took my time on the stumps . I even went out a ways to break one loose instead of getting in the fight next to the trunk if it was big. The only test really was lifting it out of the hole which it did . If somthing would not move at idle speed I dug around it . The long roots connected to the trunk served as a handle to turn the stump so I was really prissy about it trying to save the hoe.
What you said is true with this hoe . I can lift the tractor straight up in the air higher than the stabilizers can reach easily at an idle but neither stabilizer will fully extend by themselfs. When I tested the hoe at the auction thats what I did .
I have my doubts about the front end loader as well but it isnt nearly as bad . Its passable . I just noticed the break out force is much greater than the lift. It lifts a full bucket of dirt easily once its broke loose so as yet the front end is not a problem. The hoe itself has a lot of power as well as the tractor . Makes me wonder though if the hoe has what it should have when I watch those stabilizers stall the tractor lift.
Not because I own one now , but Ive always thought and heard that the kubota hoe was the strongest of its size . Ive rented a lot of B21s and they are awsome hoes for that size tractor. Im quite sure I could have removed those stumps with one of those. I used to load the front end with dirt to dig with them and they would still lift the bucket off the ground . This tractor wont do that . Its also not twice what a 21 is on the hoe.
Thanks .
Tim
Edited 4/29/2007 12:55 pm by Mooney
Edited 4/29/2007 12:55 pm by Mooney
Tim,
You keep mentioning "at idle". If in fact you are trying to operate at idle, that is your problem. I usually run a hoe (580 SM) at about 3/4 RPM and full out if I need more azz. If you having issues at higher rpm's, then I would have the dealer check your hydraulic pressures. The L48 should be a little beast. My 3650 was weak but I am very happy with the 4630. If you can grub stumps with a hoe, that takes some power. With the hours you mentioned on your tractor, it is just broke in, but may be well overdue for a major service. I'll bet Kubota recommends a hydraulic oil and filter change at 1000 hours.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Wow , thats a lot of RPMs .
You read it right . Ive been taking out stumps as low as the lever will go. Its been doing it . I raised the rpms up some to pick up a stump to carry to the pile but other than that I havent needed any more power at the back end .
Im getting to love this tractor . Today I had a driveway of hard gravel base and rocks embedded that had washed out . I figgured I would have had to use the hoe as I did with the B21s I rented to loosen up the humps and bring the right side over to the left side so I could get some proper drainage . I havent bought a box bade as yet . Im waiting for another auction to buy several pieces . Ive been busy with what Ive got anyway. After reading the previous post I thought I would try the front end [with out teeth] I experimented a few times with the tilt of the bucket and then it went nicely till it picked up a full bucket full. And so the whole job went . I never touched the hoe on that job. I was running at 2000 rpms for the front digging with lots of throttle left. I wish I had taken the camera. It took out another twin stump and I filled the whole with rocks . I didnt have any top soil so again the front bucket scraped it from the top of the yard . I lost the grass but figgure it will be back. If it doesnt Ive got some seeding to do anyway. I think I need some teeth. I found an add on pair from the above link.
Heres my deal on the hoe . If I can do all my work and keep picking up jobs down the street while Im there as they mention, I can sell the tractor in a year and make money on it selling it for less if nothing happens to it . Theres a lot of work out there right now and IM sure with out doubt I could work it full time because of this storm . Wasnt figguring the storm as it happened after I bought it and the work will dry up. I think. Big hoes get 55 an hr here plus travel time which ends up being a minimum of 110 for the first hour. This hoe is not a small one and its not a big one . Right now its representing a big one . Most jobs Ive taken are one tree or two. They get two stumps out for about 50.00 as thats what Im charging an hour . I love watching their reactions . Im working the hoe at an idle and to start they are in panic mode or worried. At the end of an hour Ive got two stumps out and they start smiling. Im thinking they were discussing when they were gonna put a halt to it at the start . As for me its making more money idleing and might be saving . I know its saving fuel. I hope I dont have any repair bills . They got what they wanted for an expected price or less and I got what I wanted. If I was traveling with it I probably wouldnt get by with it . On the other hand the replacement of the machine is 45 grand . Im making 50 an hour so I cant afford to break anything . Im not going to run the machine at high rpm for me or them for very long. If I was getting 100 per hour then I would step it up. Same for me . In an extra hour it will do the same job at an idle lets say. That doesnt matter to me as long as I dont incur expenses.
The stabilizers didnt fully extend at 2000 rpm. Thats the bad news. The hoe will pop your head up at that rpm. Somthing is not equal.
Tim
Mooney
It's not a good idea to idle a diesel very long or you'll cause what is known as wet stacking. Ideally a diesel needs to run about 75% of rated output to prevent any over fueling. At least try to run half throttle when working it under load or you'll be looking at servicing the injectors prematurely. Diesels are made to work, so put the boot to it!
Diesels tend not to warm up when at idle, not sure what problems that might cause but probably wouldn't boild off any water that condenses in the crankcase. Tractor diesel engines are generally designed to operate for long periods at close to open throttle (you'll notice that the red line is a mite bit lower than in your sports car...).
Just a thought. "Idling" the tractor around may be your problem with lack of power. A hydraulic machine needs more pressure for more power, and this can be obtained by running the pump( whole tractor) at a higher throttle setting.Maximum break out force , at least with my machine, is obtained with maximum pressure ( pump speed).Try operating at a higher speed (engine and pump) and report back.Chuck
I will just for you but I will be cringeing . LOL.
I'm certain pump repair/rebuild/replacement is possible - I'd be surprised if it was easy - I'd bet it isn't cheap -
there should be a way to attach a gauge and check pressure -
In the system somewhere there is a valve that regulates/limits the system's pressure - it is possible that this is missadjusted or malfunctioning - I had one once that had a tiny bit of metal lodge and interfer with operation - a no money fix - always nice when that happens - "there's enough for everyone"
I was going to ask about qauging the pressure . And back flushing.
I was going to ask about qauging the pressure
ya - you need the mechanics manual - it will give the technique and the specs -
I agree with the previous posters who talk about engine speed in relation to doing hydraulic work - you need to be running the engine in its power range - I'm guessing the operators manual would address this - I wouldn't expect to dig out stumps at an idle any more than I would mow at idle -
"there's enough for everyone"
I guess its me . <G>
I mowed today when I got home at a little more than idle which sharp blades. I touch the blades with a battery grinder before I mow every time . Im not very fast in first gear but Ive had this Sears rider now for over 10 years and its in very good shape. It was doing the mowing of several pieces of property before I bought a much bigger mower last fall at an auction to mow rentals and lots .
When gas went up to 3.00 per gallon the first time it did I started driving 50 mph. Gas went down but I like 50 mph and stayed there . I coast up to stop signs and excelerate slowly. Im driving a 96 pick up and a 99 model van. I get comments all the time on the truck on how good it looks to be that old . I get a few comments on the van. Im picking up money off the fuel savings and find that the extra time can be matched by a notebook in my shirt pocket not to forget anything and do my stops on the way.
Ill probably treat the tractor the same way. Im wanting to clean it up with factory paint and buff it with some polishing compound and hard wax. I ordered the service manual and will order the owners manual from the dealership. Ive got a small warehouse Im making room for it to live there . Ill try to dress it up when I get it in there . Its a nice looking tractor right now for its hours. I want it to look as new as I can get it to look and my hope is to get my money back next spring after doing all my work and for a few others. Im going to make a road trip to a factory and set a black trailer under it . Ill try to sell it as a set .
Thats what its about . Not to make money working it . Save money working it is the plan.
Tim
Stop idling your diesel and hydraulic equipment when your working. You're killing them.
It's like asking The Mighty Hulk to crochet.SamT
Praise the Corporation, for the Corporations' highest concern is the well being of the public.
Like everyone else said - Raise those RPMs. It will make a ton of difference.
Q: What does a blonde call a man who expects sex on the second date?
A: Slow.
Ill try it . I havent really done any digging since except the one stump . It was easy. Some types of trees are and some are buggers.
I had some trouble with one stump earliar just with the roots . I think it was an Elm or White Oak. Cant be sure since the tree was gone.
Tim
Edited 4/30/2007 9:51 am by Mooney
How's that hoe digging now without idling?John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
I still idle but I tried it . Its stronger.
Ill live and die by the idle. Ive always idled. From the year 1965 I idled. Im an old dude.
Tim
Idling a tractor under load is a bad thing - It's hard on the engine.My Dad is the same way. He slows down the idle speed to about 400 RPM on his tractors. He lopes them around at low engine speeds, and regularly stalls the engines.About 20 years back one of his tractors wouldn't hold decent oil pressure. He eventually agreed to let me take the engine apart to see what was up. You know how main bearings in an engine have the white babbit on them? On the lower half of the main bearings, the babbit was completely worn away.Being a tight-a$$ like you, he wanted me to simply flip the bearings over and put it back together. I refused. The tractor sat there in pieces for 2 months until he eventually relented and bought new bearings. You need a higher engine speed to keep the bearings lubricated, and to keep a good oil supply ni the top end/valve train. Idling under load won't do that.I'm sure you think you're saving money in the short run by idling it. But in the long run it's gonna cost ya.
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. [George Santayana]
Well Im not running at 400 rpm.
1000 rpm.
You ever heard a backhoe shake when its running ? If you heard one do it , its wore out or been put through a bunch of abuse.
I dont think 1000 on this tractor is lugging it for the hoe. Thats what I was talking about . Scooping dirt with the front end runs 1500 to 2000. I dont run it anywhere doing anything over 2 grand. I road it at that in high gear. Back dragging dirt with the front end runs about 1400 .
Anyway 1000 on the hoe gives me a soft touch .
This evening [I just got home from doing it ] I demolished a 12 x 24 building with the hoe . I broke the trusses first and caved it in . I reached for the walls and pulled them inside one by one pushing the first wall to me . I only could work on one side of the building so it was all done with the hoe. I then scooted the whole mess away from a large Oak tree about 8 ft so burning it wouldnt hurt it . I piled it in a neat pile ready to burn. It was all done at 1000 on the hoe and even surprized me when it moved the pile over the 8 ft but it never paused. I would have shot the fuel to it to move it and thought Id probably have to.
Tim
Edited 6/1/2007 7:11 pm by Mooney
Edited 6/1/2007 7:13 pm by Mooney
Im not arguing but I bet your dad never breaks anything .
Tim
"I bet your dad never breaks anything."
You'd lose that bet. Dad has done all kinds of things, including runnning the combine auger into the side of the machine shed and driving his grain truck into the barn with the bed all the way up.
BTW - I don't consider 1,000 RPM to be at idle. A fast idle maybe. But not idle.
The Beatings Will Continue Until Morale Improves
Take it for what it's worth. I used to run heavy equipment for a living. It's either wide open when you are working, or idle when you aren't. For the same reason Boss noted a few posts ago. find a place to send your oil sample too also. Well worth the small price.
Poets have been mysteriously silent on the subject of cheese. G.K Chesterton
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPONTneuaF4
Dang - That's like twice this month that you and I have agreed on something.We must be on a roll....
T-shirt: A Team Effort Is A Lot Of People Doing What I Say
I've only got a couple hundred hours on heavy machinery, but I've seen far too many novice operators try to run at idle simply because it gives them more control over the machine. I learned early on to run at 3/4 to full.
Killing a couple mins poking around eBay.
A few of the red ones on there. 29 tractors in the MF listing. Several 135's:
http://cgi.ebay.com/MASSEY-FERGUSON-135-MULTI-POWER-NICE-TRACTOR_W0QQitemZ150118351933QQihZ005QQcategoryZ91953QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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This one looks newer though:
http://cgi.ebay.com/90-MASSEY-FERGUSON-390-TRACTOR_W0QQitemZ130108419989QQihZ003QQcategoryZ91953QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Or with loader
http://cgi.ebay.com/Massey-Ferguson-285-tractor-w-Loader-near-Salem-OR_W0QQitemZ260113800368QQihZ016QQcategoryZ91953QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Here's one without the "M":
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ferguson-tractor-T20-T30-8n-9n-ford_W0QQitemZ250110486993QQihZ015QQcategoryZ91953QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Full sized MF
http://cgi.ebay.com/Massey-Ferguson-2745-dually-farm-tractor-Perkins-V8_W0QQitemZ180112353438QQihZ008QQcategoryZ91953QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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This one would go with ol' blue (I didn't know IH came in blue):
http://cgi.ebay.com/TRACTOR_W0QQitemZ110121958803QQihZ001QQcategoryZ91953QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Wow, you could wind up with red, white and blue IH's!
http://cgi.ebay.com/International-Harvester-504-Tractor-Good-Condition-NICE_W0QQitemZ320107551911QQihZ011QQcategoryZ91953QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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OK, back to work...
jt8
"The lowest ebb is the turn of the tide."-- Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
I think land pride is what I and some others were calling Woods...
Can't remember for sure. Anyway, I think landpride is also a decent brand.
The box blades do have ripper teeth, but there main function is to bring gravel back to the surface of an old driveway, but they also work to loosen dirt for scraping.
The main thing about an angle blade is it is much more versatile, If you can only have one blade make it an angle blade, but a box blade works too in the right circumstances...
4-n-1 buckets are great for picking up piled brush, or large rocks, or anything else to bulky to fit IN the bucket. The downside is they are heavier, (probably not a concern to you) the buckets hold less dirt, and they are prone to damage. A good alternitave is called a grapple, which is a big rake looking thing that hinges over the top of your present bucket.
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A medium to large guy named Alan, not an ambiguous female....
NOT that there is anything wrong with that.
Edited 4/27/2007 9:34 pm by bigal4102
Thanks
People keep saying more good things about angle blades and less to say about box blades.
I thought box blades broke ground with their ripper teeth?
Tim
Tim, you did good. Real good.
Invite Boss down to play with it for a while. He'll sing a different tune.
There are so many other applications for it besides the hoe. I've found a back bucket is great. So is a back blade & rake. Change out the front for that quik disconnect system they have for blades, snowblowers, brooms, and other front equipment. A rear ceement mixer, forks, generators, etc.
Gotta build a new pole barn just for this one.
I'm considering that 30 hp model (B3030) cause it's the only one with a cab. Tops me out with a 5' blower on the front, though. But couple that with a floating blade on the 3 pt hitch, and you can get the sweetest looking results.
I've also found that a front dozer blade coupled with that back one makes a nice road grader.
I would like to have a dozer blade as well .
Tim
congrats Tim - I hope it's all you need/want -
"there's enough for everyone"
"congrats Tim - I hope it's all you need/want - "
Thanks David. I think thats a big statement that haunts us from time to time . I dont see how we could possibly have either one with just one tractor but its as close as I could call for me with one tractor.
As in poker ; All you can do is get your money to the center of the table with the best hands you were dealt. .
Tim
The knock on the three point back hoes are that they are much harder on the tractor and don't hold up as well as the frame mounted units. However, a frame mounted back hoe pretty much stays on the tractor as taking it off is a real chore plus there is no three point for attachments when you do get it off.
"The knock on the three point back hoes are that they are much harder on the tractor and don't hold up as well as the frame mounted units. However, a frame mounted back hoe pretty much stays on the tractor as taking it off is a real chore plus there is no three point for attachments when you do get it off."
You just got to the main deal with this tractor. If you look at the link you will notice it I think. Its not a three point mounted hoe and is mounted to the frame plus a frame support. All three bars are stored in the cab area. Its the only dog of its kind.
You are of course correct plus there are other disdvantages to a three point mounted hoe. Normally there are two seats so when the hoe wont move the unit you have to jump to the ground and swing up in the saddle in the drivers seat and move up. Then the reverse. I see a problem with weight distribution too. On a three point mounted unit it sits way out from the unit and looks unnatural to the tractors movement . If its used occasionally then its no big deal but its not a money maker. HST can of course change the problem around to a postive .
Tim
tim, i just stumbled across a 3pt rototiller on graigslist. go to wichita ks, then farm and garden. 550.00 doesn't say where . alot of this stuff is in okla. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.