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I have an old house (1930) that I need to raise to pour a real foundation. A couple of questions…
1. Should I take off the lath and plaster off the inside walls to make the house lighter (its all falling off so I have to remove it anyhow) or does it’s presence help with structual integrity.
2. Should I replace the roof before I lift (including the plywood sheeting so as to help with structual strenght) or do I do it after I lift when the house has settled?
Replies
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I think I would crank the sucker up the way it is,pour your foundation,crank it back down,then start your redo.
*Paul- I put a basement under my brother's 150 year old farm house a little while back-raised the whole thing about eight inches in the process. I stripped out all the plaster but only because I had to replace the first floor joists and walls. (termites)Left the roof alone until I set the house down.
*paul.... who's doing it ?we sub out to the building movers for the big ones..we do shoring and jacking... and move sheds .. but for the houses.. we get a pro..and the plaster, lath, and roofing is nothing to them.. so do what pro-deck said.. but don't you do it....
*The weight of the plaster isn't going to make any difference to the house movers. As to the roof and the rest of the structure, they'll look at it before they lift it, and if it's in bad enough shape to be dangerous to lift, they'll probably tell you so.As to lifting it at all, is it seriously off level, or do you want to raise it to a different level? If not, it may be possible to do foundation and cripple wall repairs in smaller sections, without lifting the whole building. I've seen it done both ways just recently, on two buildings a block away from mine.-- J.S.
*hey Paul-mike's probably right here. But here is my experience-I called three house movers- two returned calls- one showed up to bid the job. Nice guy- showed us two photo albums full of moving jobs- sent an estimate of around seventeen thousand dollars to raise the house and shore it up IF I DID THE CARPENTRY and provided the cribbing material. That was for him to supply steel and know how to lift the house for fourteen days- three hundred a day after that. I was absent the day dumbass was given out so I did it myself. Two 40 ton jacks, bout $8500 in microlamms and lumber, concrete and rebar/ angle iron- and another $7500 in labor- I re-used every inch of the micros in opening up the floorplan and have about one half a pick up load of cribbing left...Not for the weekend warrior and I can't recommend you do it...just my experience
*don't lissen to hub.... he's just hoping you'll bite so you can blame him... his favorite game .. the blame game..if time is money.. hire a sub... if you don't have anything else to do.. do it yourself..circumstance rules.....on a remodeling job... the nice thing about hiring a pro is you nail down the costs..
*which part of Mike is probably right and I can't recommend you do it makes you think I advocate Paul not hiring somebody?
*geesh we're touchy tonite..check this out doug... Keith C "Here's what I don't like...." 2/5/01 5:24pm
*exactly my point! Maryanne is far and away the better babe.
*oh yeah , the inflection thing-maryanne....yesterday-today-always
*what i mean to say is "sorry"
*much better than the ""infection "" thingwho ya gonna blame ?
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I have an old house (1930) that I need to raise to pour a real foundation. A couple of questions...
1. Should I take off the lath and plaster off the inside walls to make the house lighter (its all falling off so I have to remove it anyhow) or does it's presence help with structual integrity.
2. Should I replace the roof before I lift (including the plywood sheeting so as to help with structual strenght) or do I do it after I lift when the house has settled?