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Load bearing exterior steel walls

WISMN | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 21, 2005 06:21am

This is the first time around for me using steel for a room addition and I have a few dumb questions that need some answers to, so bear with me. This job is in a section of Chicago that requires   A. Steel only ( no imbedded wood). and B. Three layers of 5/8 fire rated drywall on both sides. I’m not sure how to write this so I’ll list my questions by number and an answer to any or all will help

1. Do you build the wall on the deck then raise it (I hope) or try to build it in place???  If in place, where do you start

2. Do you attempt to sheath it first (for stability) then raise it(three layers?)

3. If a channel joint falls between studs do you stiffen it with a piece of stud material or time it to fall on a stud

4. The print calls for 8″ imbedded headers, what the hell are those and how are they attached

5. At door openings do you let the channel run and cut out later

6. Are tapcons ok for attachment to the existing brick building

7. The roof is flat and low pitched using 117/8 TJIs for ceiling joists/roof rafters, do I just stack them over the studs and screw them to the top channel ( I don’t like that )

8. The trim issue. The outside will be vinyl sided, the windows are the plastic flanged type and the interior trim is just run of the mill wood casing ,base and crown. Considering the DW thickness how the hell do I attach it….????

I really hate sounding like an idiot and if this was built out of wood I wouldn’t be here now, but over the years I’ve learned that if you don’t know something  ASK. I guess at 55 you can still teach an old dog new tricks.

This is my first time to this site and I hope I’ll be able to find my way back here and see any answers you have to the situation. Feel free if you have the time to E-mail me direct in the event I get lost on the web  AGAIN!!!..My E-mail is [email protected]    Thanks so much for your time and I hope to hear from you guys soon….   Larry

Reply

Replies

  1. mbdyer | Aug 21, 2005 07:35pm | #1

    Three layers of drywall on both sides?  Sheesh that sounds like alot unless it's a firewall between two adjoining housing units(row home, townhome, etc.)  But that's code then that's what it is. 

    I'd build it on the deck with one or two layers of exterior sheathing then stand it, depending on how long and heavy the wall is and how much help I have.  Having at least one layer will help keep things straight and square.  Run door plates all the way through, you can cut them later with a sawzall and it'll help keep the wall from flexing too much at this point.

    Your other questions are best answered by a steel contractor, most of my steel stud work has been in partition walls that aren't load bearing.  As far as headers and such one of these pros will know more.

    Attaching trim to three layers of 5/8 will be a pain.  Use adhesive (PL, OSI, Liquid nails, etc.) and trim screws as needed.  With partition gauge steel you can shoot trim nails that will hold long enough for the adhesive to set.  I put in lengths of blocking ells ripped from 3/4" ply that fits behind the crown.  I glue and screw the blocking keep 8-10" out of all corners(inside and outside).  This allows me to shoot trim nails to hold the crown up.

    Good luck.

  2. ruffmike | Aug 21, 2005 08:26pm | #2

    Long time steel framer here. i'll give it a shot

    1. In place, shoot down all track first. start stick framing where wall hits existing structure.secure first stud to existing-put stud aprox 10' out w/ temp brace- put track on top- fill in. Repeat.

    2 after

    3 piece of stud is good, 4 screws each side, aviod layout, but piece can be notched to accept stud

    4 must mean box header, 2 pieces of track & 2 pieces of stud with Ears to attatch to door or window studs

    5 see #1

    6 that or an epoxy set up, what ever won't damage it

    7 screw from underneath, run webing or flatsrap on top to prevent roll over

    8 long screws maybe Grabber finish screws self tapping

    Consider having plans changed to wood, submit the change to archie or engineer

    We build stuff all the time that is drawn up in wood but changed to steel.

     Wish I could suggest a specific book, try USG publications maybe.

     Going camping for a week, good luck.

     Make sure you are using right guage steel. Ask whoever drew the plans for details!

                                Mike

        Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.

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