Replies

1. 
   xJohn_Sprung | Nov 30, 2001 10:48pm | #1

   *
   Removing 18 ft of bearing wall is a major job. Here, and in most big cities, you'd need plans wet stamped by a structural engineer. A good one can help you get thru the permit process. Where are you located? With that info, you might get a referral from somebody on this board.

   -- J.S.

1. 
   Scooter_ | Dec 01, 2001 12:33am | #2

   *What's a wet stamp?

1. 
   piffin_ | Dec 01, 2001 03:47am | #3

   *A stamp popped into the ink pad and applied to your design by an engineer who has actually looked at iot. Not a photocopy.

1. 
   jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | Dec 01, 2001 04:09am | #4

   *"Also, if a beam is put in to replace the wall on the main floor, the load bearing jack studs on the ends of the beam would transfer weight to a smaller area on the basement beam, would there need to be additional support on that basement beam?"Maybe, maybe not. You'd be creating what's called a "point load". But since you're not changing the actual load on that beam, just changing the distribution of that load, the existing structure supporting the bottom beam might be adequate. Another variable is time. Codes change over time. And even though the structural design was approved at the time the house was built, it might not meet today's standards. Especially if you live in an earthquake sensitive area. For example, an area that was classified "seismic zone 3" for years might get reclassified "seismic zone 4" due to recent studies and all the new construction after the reclassification date would have to meet higher standards. It's definately something you need local professional advice about. Around here structural engineers get around 60.00/hour. Even if he charges you 1/2 day, that's a small percentage of the cost of the job you're describing. Hire a pro and get professional results. You'll sleep a lot better.

1. 
   Dave_Richeson | Dec 01, 2001 06:07am | #5

   *Curt,your questions are rasonable, and you have recieved good advice. I question a remodeler that would tell you that you have enough other cold air returns to compensate for removing one. If he is not a HVAC specialist that recieves engineering suport or is an engineer himself, he could be setting you up for futuer HVAC problems. If properly designed and balanced the supply and return air for each room in your house work together. Remove one and you mess up that balance creating a positive air pressure in one room that effectively dams up the circulation in that room. The room will get cold because with the doors and windows shut, the supply side duct pressure can not overcome the high possitive pressure in the room. Most older homes leak enough air to the outside that you don't notice the full extent of this overpressure, but since you mentioned your chidrens comfort, I thought I would mention this. A lot of cold spots in houses occure because of poor air circulation, not poor heating systems.Dave

2. 
   Justus1199 | Dec 08, 2001 06:45am | #6

   *Watch out for Licensed HVAC, I've got a universal HVAC license and I wouldn't even take the cover off an air conditioner. The test isn't hard, like everything else it's actually knowing what the hell your doing that takes time.

3. 
   Michael_J_Lonigro | Dec 09, 2001 07:26pm | #7

   *Curt, Definitely have a licensed structural engineer run the calcs. Changing a beams loading from a uniformly distributed load (bearing wall) to a point load (end jacks) may require more support under the steel beam. The steel beam designed for a bearing wall was most likely calculated to a ertain deflection. The point load may increase that deflection so much that you'll wind up with a sagging floor...or worse. Good practice is to always have a column directly under a point load so that the load path has proper support down to the ground.As for the return grill, also consult with a mechanical engineer or experienced HVAC contractor. You may be able to simply undercut a door or add a transfer grill in the bedroom wall to overcome the problem.

2. 
   Curt_Fjelstul | Dec 09, 2001 07:28pm | #8

   *
   I have a couple of questions regarding the removal of a load bearing wall in a two story house. This is a wall between the kitchen and family room. There are doorways at each end of this approximately 18 foot wall. The wall contains a cold air return for the furnace from an upstairs bedroom. A remodeling contractor has said that removal of that cold air return doesn't effect anything because there are still plenty of returns in the house. If this bedroom door is closed while the child in there sleeps, would not the return be vital to the air circulation in that room? There is a steel beam in the basement that supports the current stud wall. Also, if a beam is put in to replace the wall on the main floor, the load bearing jack studs on the ends of the beam would transfer weight to a smaller area on the basement beam, would there need to be additional support on that basement beam?