*
It is common practice to put log joists 4ft o/c in log homes to support the 2nd floor. It is also normal to then bridge these joists with 2x T&G, providing the ceiling for the first floor and a base to build the 2nd floor in the standard way,ie, 2x, plywood, and flooring.
We don’t care for the ‘look’ of the T&G for the ceiling of the 1st floor and prefer a bright, white plaster look.
It would have to be laid over the joists, pre painted, and be rigid enough to support the weight of the built up floor.
Any suggestions on what we might use?
Replies
*
Assuming you're still going to have log joists @4'oc. I would frame a 2x6 floor joist @ suitable spacing (see code) and use a 3/4" T&G ply. subfloor. Then I would treat the 2x6 as a conventional floor system, insulate it or not depending on your preference/needs. I would then have the board hangers hang the ceiling just as they would for normal construction. Then I would have it skim-coat plastered.
The upcharge for fitting sheets between the 4" oc logs is minimal. And the amount you will spend trying to protect drywall laid first and then a floor system over it will probably be very expensive and the results will be generally unsat.
I take it your log home builder doesn't want to deviate from his standard floor, or do I take it wrong ?
*
Mike, I can't imagine trying to scribe and cut 1800sqft of drywall and push it up between the joists. I had in mind something I can prefinish, lay on top off the joists, and then build up the floor. Any suggestions?
*
You could use 3/4" MDO - good side down - then use 2X4 joists perpendicular to your logs and 3/4" subfloor on top of that.
OK, so shoot me, but I think a good rule of thumb for joists is 1" per ft of span and you're only spanning 4 feet log to log. Just use good tight grained material.
The MDO will tape out and paint like sheetrock, better really.
*Hey. what do I know ?I'm not the board hanger / plasterer.But all the extra work you're describing is worth something, and I think a good board hanger /plasterer will take that right in stride. If you have skim-coat plasterers where you're building, this is just another day in the life for them. They'll give you an upcharge, but I bet its less than what you were proposing.If you're talking sheetrock / taping its a little different, but not much.If you lay material on top of your logs, arn't you going to have a visible joint ?What about leaving the matl at 2x6 t&g and pickeling it white ?Jim: I assume you're talking about taping the 8' joints. Would you tape that with a 12" joint? Does drywall compound bond well to MDO ? The ceiling will still have to be painted.With skim-coat plaster, you can leave them unpainted (mfr. say to paint them , but you can leave them unpainted)So, Mr. Boyer, what does your builder say ?
*Mike - I think it would take a double 12" joint to feather that baby down. I've never had any trouble with mud bonding to MDO, but I use taping mud for the first two coats, then skim out with topping mud. I'm not sure about that all purpose mud.
*Feather is as feather does...a double 12" would get my vote too, which would still have to be done no matter what material is used, and THEN the ceiling gets painted.I think there's a lot of work here no way around it.
*
It is common practice to put log joists 4ft o/c in log homes to support the 2nd floor. It is also normal to then bridge these joists with 2x T&G, providing the ceiling for the first floor and a base to build the 2nd floor in the standard way,ie, 2x, plywood, and flooring.
We don't care for the 'look' of the T&G for the ceiling of the 1st floor and prefer a bright, white plaster look.
It would have to be laid over the joists, pre painted, and be rigid enough to support the weight of the built up floor.
Any suggestions on what we might use?