Lowes top choice white wood 1×4’s vs. 5 quarter cedar “deck boards”
atvalaska
| Posted in General Discussion on
Ok which way would u go, I use the 1×4’s 1 foot on center going up the roof 6/12 pitch (on 24” on center trusses) as the backer for my metal roof (on my house/s my 3rd) I found I can get the cedar cheaper..near as I can tell its better, cleaner and straight , what do u folks think of using the 5/4 boards ..strength wise, screw holding etc..
Replies
You use skip sheathing under metal on a house?
i've only seen it done- "fully sheated "one other time. roof needs Lots of air flow in these parts
What about 2x4s?
Lowes top Choice White wood vs 5/4 cedar
White wood (SPF or spruce, pine, true fir) is weak on holding screws or nails. The strength in fastener holding is specific to the hard dark fiberous wood or growth rings and density thereof. White woods carry very few hard fibers, thus white wood, as well as some 2nd growth cedar. My preferance in Douglas fir, a false fir, for it has a much greater holding power, rot resistance, span ability, load patience and modulus of elasticity performance than SPF or fast grow cedars. Hemlock 's holding power is simular to cedar's, spf is much lower, you do get what you pay for in wood.
In addion, spacing of lumber for sweating and breatabilty will affect uplift performance therefore the stonger the pullout of the fastener the better your roof performance. Plywood is commonally nailed down at 8 inch oc on the joist, trusses or rafters with 8 penny nails, so as a guide figure the amont of nails the plywood has or would have and mirror that amount for your lumber, and again for your metal. Use 1- 1/2 inch longer nails or screws than the wood you are fastening. Here I like a good ringshank nail like National Nail.
WASHINGTON ALASKA ROOF SYSTEMS, INC - Duradek Northwest
thanks ,i will check out a piece of the ceder and run some screws to her....the 1x4's at lowes scuk (i do belive ) since the last vast amount of 1x4's i got at SBS in the mid-90's ..was better lumber