I’m about to bite the bullet on a new metal roof.
I’m leaning toward a pre-painted product such as Follansbee or Firestone with a Kynar finish. I can get it in aluminum or steel.
I’m in western Maryland and am wondering how long to expect the finish to last before re-painting. Is painting a metal roof more expensive than painting anything else?
Follansbee offers a “terne-coated stainless” roof (TCS II) that never needs painting and looks pretty good from pictures. How much more expensive than pre-painted? A little more, or twice as much more?
Two local roofers tell me the pre-painted cannot be soldered. The TCS can be soldered, which is another attractive feature.
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Grant tells us that prepainted can indeed be soldered just fine, just have to remove the paint. I'd imagine that is a thirty second process to touch it quick with a grinder.
I have the Kynar on my ten year old house. Was just on it a couple weeks ago to install snow/ice blocks and to clean the chimney. It is as good as the day I installed it - really I checked under a couple of laps - no fading going on. I can't remember it I bought with a 10- or a 20 year promise of serviceability, but I have great confidence in it. I have seen dark colours on other metal roof products that were fading and chalking in only a few years.
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Grant tells us that prepainted can indeed be soldered just fine, just have to remove the paint. I'd imagine that is a thirty second process to touch it quick with a grinder.
See my post above. We've never tried it with anything but Kynar coated Terne. We use sandpaper to remove the coating very selectively and so far we've only done it on the back side. Then we clean and repaint before installing.
Plain galvy needs to be fluxed with muriatic which causes it to rust so I suspect kynar coated galvanized would be a problem to solder. We just need to use rosin flux on the terne. View Image
TCS is about the same price as copper which in my neck of the woods translates to nearly twice what the kynar coated terne runs. Actually, right now, I think I'm pricing copper slightly below TCS.
I haven't used TCS for standing seam, but we've done a couple of flat seam roofs and several built-in gutter relines with it. I like it for the same reasons I like the Terne II Klassic Kolors: I can buy it in sheet form and brake fabricate it to fit the roof. If I don't want a seam in a certain place, I can narrow up a few rows to move it over or more importantly, I can bend it thru a pitch change and form the hips and ridges as a seam rather than installing a big clunky ridge cap.
Here's a pic of porch roof we did lately:
View Image
The little flat area at the top is TCS flat seam.
Your local roofer is wrong about soldering the Terne Klassic Kolors. It can be done. But there's only one instance on any roof we've done with KK that requires soldering if one is a crafty folder and that's the waste vents. We cut the hole in the pan so it fits tight and form and trim the tube to the roof pitch and dry fit it together on the roof. Then we take it back apart and solder on the back side. Does't hurt the top finish. We'll be doing some next week. If I can get my guys to slow up enough to take some picks, I'll show you how so you can show your roofer.
On the painting issue: The Follansbee product has kynar on both sides plus their proprietary paint on top of the kynar on the business side. So, repainting should be a cosmetic issue vs a longevity issue.
Painting a standing seam roof is tedious, but so is painting about anything else, IMHO.
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>>If I can get my guys to slow up enough to take some picks, I'll show you how so you can show your roofer.Thank you, thank you! A couple of pictures would be great.