OK, got a couple of quotes in. Good thing I was sitting down.
Project is 16 squares, 12/12 on part of it and 6/12 on a couple of shed dormers. No valleys, some roof-to-wall flashing, new construction, flat lot with easy access. The metal I spec’d is a 24 ga 12″ standing seam with Kynar paint. No gutters or DS included.
Bottom line: $700 per square. If I roll back to a 26 ga material then the price drops to $600 per square.
Those of you that either do this or have bought this recently, is this in the ballpark or not?
Replies
Got price for 27 square of $18,000 flat, materials and labor. Same product, 24 gauge. $670 per square.
You can do the installation yourself, with a relatively small investment in tools. Have you gone through the biz of putting together a complete list of panels, flashing, and accessories, and priced it out?
I did the work myself on a small job, same 24 ga standing seam type as yours, mine involving some complex valley work, and curved eaves.
The guys that sell you the panels will sell you the special end-bender you need to lip the ends of the panels over the dripedge. A good pair of sheet metal worker tongs will seam it up.
Here is what you need: professional-grade shears, R, L, and straight. A Kett power shear with the nibbler head attachment. Professional-grade tongs. That's it.
I'm kinda liking that idea. Truth is, a couple of years ago I had a metal roofing package priced out by the supplier. I sent a couple of photos and measurements and they sent back a complete list with prices. The only problem is that my roofer is extremely good and conscientious, and he knows things that I don't. Any time he comes on the job he improves the quality of what's being done. A major intangible... but is it worth the several thousand in pay that he wants? Maybe I'll ask DW, since she always knows.
Have you looked at all the literature your manufacturer has about details and installation? I used Fabral products, and they have some pretty straightforward how-to info.
I was in the metal skin biz a long time ago, and here is the first commercial roofing job I was on, as a 27-year-old construction super. The hole in the center was intentional.
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Hey Stinger, did you ever meet a guy named Jack Reynolds on that job?
Nope.
That is my father. I dont know if he worked on the roof or the structure but he did work on it.
I'm meeting the sales rep for Fabral tomorrow morning. I was thinking, like you, I could do my own after setting up with the proper tools. I'm wondering if you need a brake for the dormer cheek walls. Any thoughts on what gauge for cutting and working with, etc. ? The technical drawings from the Fabral site make the assembly look pretty staight forward- down to the ridge vent. Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
I did a Fabral 1 1/2 SSR standing seam roof last year. About 33 squares, 24 ga. about $7,500 delivered to site. 30' lengths. First time metal roof job. Installation is straightforward, their directions are easy to follow. $100 in special tools was all I needed. No brake needed. Goes fast on the straight runs; hips, valleys and details take a lot of time.
No problem cutting the 24 ga.
How steep?
I don't find metal walkable if there's ANY moisture on it. Maybe I've got the wrong shoes.
6/12
I found the roof very slippery some days. No problem others. After a good rain, even when slightly wet, you could walk easily on it. After a couple of days of pollen, etc. It is tough to stay on it. To do some sidewall shingling up high, I mounted some roof jacks on 2x4s wrapped in old carpet to protect the paint which I hung from the peak with ropes. worked ok.
david we use mountain/rock climbing harness's and a descender with a good rope to position ourselves on steep pitches of roof. make sure the anchor point is bullet proof. several different ways to accomplish that.
here in south eastern north carolina (i gotta find a way to get west in there somewhere) metal roofing is very popular and expensive, my advice for an easier installation for someone who doesn't work with it all the time instead of the standing seam, look into the master rib. check http://www.unioncorrugating.com for the different styles, our local manufacturer.
the cost of labor is over twice as much for standing seam vs. master rib, you can download installation instructions from the website as well comparing the difference's with different styles.
M,
Thanks for the response. Sounds good- I've got the quote for $4500.- in front of me. It's about 20 sq. but includes the tools you talked about and the trim for the shed dormer at front and rear. The job is a 50'-0 carriage house with a 10 pitch and the center dormers are 2 pitch.
Did you fold the standing seam at the bottom or use the plugs the rep told me were available?
Per Fabral's instructions, I:
" Notch eave of panel 1” and bend the hem under by using the hem-bending tool. Snip off underlap rib
flush with the hem edge of the panel pan. Trim and fold overlap rib of panel to provide a clean closed
panel rib appearance. Use Sikaflex sealant on this portion of the rib to provide a weather tight seal."I do not know about a Plug. Is it to fill in the end of the rib?
I'm doing copper for less than $900/sq. Steel roofing is outrageous right now.
Birth, school, work, death.....................
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I did my while roof two years ago for $1487.55
I dont know hom many squares but its a 1200 sq ft house with 5/12. 2+3=7
Yours is not standing seam and your price sounds like material only
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yes, and it was, but it was still cheap. 2+3=7
You're on. By the time I get the thing done enough for you to roof it there will be some sleeping quarters too. My wife is a mean cook.
How's the weather there - It sucks here - we're not doing much roofing right now.Birth, school, work, death.....................
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It snowed and was cold for a few days right after Thanksgiving. Last 10 days or so in the 40s, sometimes clear skies, sometimes a little overcast, no wind, no problem working outside.
OK, suppose I do take this on. I can see how the 6:12 areas are walkable and could imagine roofing them. The 12:12... that's not walkable and you can't use toeboards on a metal roof. What's the setup? A lightweight aluminum extension ladder section with a ladder hook? Fill your pockets and your hat with helium?
David, you can use toeboards or roof jacks to the open side. Use a chicken ladder on the finished side with either a ridge hook or get some sheet metal vice grips and clamp them to the finished seams and rest your ladder on them. Tie off from the ridge.Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
build your own chicken ladder and back it with rag felt or similar, like wool carpet pad.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!