I’m working with metal studs for the first time. It’s my understanding that the strength of the wall unit is dependent on the wall board attached to the studs. I want to add a layer of Celotex sound stop under the wall board on both sides. Am I going to run into a problem with this? This will be an office of one apartment backing up to a living room of another apartment.
Joe, should be no problems with your design. For a more stout wall, you might want to insert the "u" shaped cold rolled steel reinforcing through the holes in the studs. If 25 ga. studs, this will further tie them all together and stiffen the wall. If you used 25 ga. and the wall is no taller than 8', you probably don't need the reinforcing metal. The channel is available from a commercial steel stud/drywall supplier.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Used to work for a school disctrict, divided up a lot of larger classrooms with metal stud walls, and wanted to isolate the sound from each area.
We put in fiberglass insulation to help deaden sound transmission, put drywall over that, sealed up the joints with a coat of mud, and glued vinyl coated Celotex tackboard over that for additional sound deadening and tackable wall surface. Might be a practical solution for the office side, saves a lot of drywall finishing labor.
Thanks. I like the Celotex tackboard idea for the office side. It will be my office and I'm always sticking push pins into the wall board.
You are asking a question about wall strength but refering to sound isolation. Two independant topics.
Strength of an interior wall should primarily come from it's framing and not its drywall. Unless you are going taller than 9' you can use 3 1/2" light guage studs.
For sound deadening, I prefer sound attenuation batting in the form of mineral wool. It is very easy to work with.
A second level and very effective way of isolating sound is to use a resilient channel on one or both sides. USG has a diagram on their web site http://www.usg.com.
You can also use 3 1/2" track, top and bottom, and then use 2 1/2" studs, staggered. (Note: This requires double the number of studs.) That way, each side's sheathing is fastened to independent framing. Less sound transmission at minimal cost in materials. The additional labor involved with metals studs is also minmal because you are only fastening one side.
Use 5/8" GWB. I think code requires the GWB to be 1 1/4" (double layer 5/8") between separate dwellings, but I could be wrong. This too, will go a long way in deadening sound.
Of course, any combo of the above is good too.