FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Moisture when painting exterior wood

dockelly | Posted in General Discussion on May 19, 2009 04:44am

Hi All,

Did a search through the archives, seems 8% or lower when painting exterior wood house. That sound right?

Kevin

Reply

Replies

  1. dockelly | May 19, 2009 05:58am | #1

    bump

    1. dockelly | May 19, 2009 04:32pm | #2

      bump bump

  2. User avater
    AaronRosenthal | May 19, 2009 07:34pm | #3

    Doc,
    Is it a new piece of wood?
    If you are prepping and painting an existing exterior, the moisure content of the wood is the LAST thing I worry about.
    I look for temps of 10 - 25 deg C (50-85 F for you ludites) and better, a forecast of clear weather for about a week to dry out the surface.
    Prep is everything.

    Quality repairs for your home.

    AaronR Construction
    Vancouver, Canada

     

    1. dockelly | May 19, 2009 10:04pm | #4

      house exterior, wood is 120 years old.  I am worried that it will get wet after I've stripped it all down to bare wood, paintshaver, and wanted to know how dry it has to get, i.e. moisture content, to avoid paint bubbling.

  3. WayneL5 | May 20, 2009 01:12am | #5

    Not sure on moisture, but 8% is fairly dry and sounds reasonable.

    The US Forest Service did testing on preparation of bare wood and found that once wood is prepped that it should be primed within two weeks.  After two weeks the adherence of paint drops by an amount significant enough to be measurable.

    1. dockelly | May 20, 2009 03:41am | #8

      Good to know, thanks!

  4. Piffin | May 20, 2009 02:01am | #6

    You'd never get a chance to paint it here waiting for it to dry that much.

    12-15%.

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. dockelly | May 20, 2009 04:28am | #9

      Say it got rained on all day once I stripped the paint down to bare wood, and the next day was blue skies, 70 degrees, sunny and low humidity.  Do you think a full day like that is enough for the wood to dry out sufficiently for paint?

       

      Sorry if this is one of those impossible type questions.

      1. Piffin | May 20, 2009 12:51pm | #12

        Yes.but like somebody mentioned, the painters here will quit stripping each day about an hour or two before quitting time, and start brushing the primer on. 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  5. User avater
    Ted W. | May 20, 2009 03:40am | #7

    As dry as nature will allow is the best you're gonna get it. If you get rain while wood is exposed, let it dry a couple of days before painting it.

    Optionally, you could prime anything you expose at the end of each day.

    ~ Ted W ~

    Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.net
    See my work at TedsCarpentry.com

    1. dockelly | May 20, 2009 05:09pm | #16

      Work in sections, can the primer be exposed for a few weeks so I can paint everything at the same time?

      1. Piffin | May 20, 2009 08:19pm | #19

        pprox 30 days exposure max 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      2. User avater
        Ted W. | May 21, 2009 04:15am | #24

        The biggest issue would be dust accumulating over time. I've left primer exposed all summer or winter, and none of it has failed that I know of. The trick is to sweep off the surfaces with a stiff broom before painting - especiall around ground level. Also, work the paint in well with the brush and/or roller.

        If, by chance, you plan on spraying the paint, you shouldn't wait that long.~ Ted W ~

        Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work at TedsCarpentry.com

        1. DanH | May 21, 2009 06:19am | #25

          Primer does lose it's "tooth" if left exposed for too long. Of course it's a gradual thing, so there's no one point in time when it suddenly becomes "too long".
          As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz

        2. Piffin | May 21, 2009 12:34pm | #26

          It's more than just dust accumulating ON it.UV degrades the surface of primer fairly fast so it chaulks away. Too much left from just sweeping will make for a bad bond with the new finish coat.But if he is using one of the self priming paints, that should nowt be an issue as much 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  6. DanH | May 20, 2009 04:39am | #10

    One very important question is what kind of paint is being used. If latex then a little moisture is actually a good idea.

    As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
    1. dockelly | May 20, 2009 05:51am | #11

      thinking of this one:http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/sherwin_williams_products/products/resilienceext/index.jsp

      1. DanH | May 20, 2009 03:51pm | #13

        What about primer?
        As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz

        1. dockelly | May 20, 2009 04:08pm | #14

          I'll call SW and ask someone there which primer is best given my location and weather conditions.

          1. User avater
            Ted W. | May 20, 2009 04:24pm | #15

            Tell them we all said hello!~ Ted W ~

            Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work at TedsCarpentry.com

        2. dockelly | May 20, 2009 05:25pm | #17

          Just got off the phone with SW, primer:A-100¯ Exterior Oil Based Stain Blocking Primer
          A-100 Alkyd Wood Primer * Ideal for exterior wood and plywood siding and trim
          * May also be used for masonry and cement composition panels
          * Blocks stains
          * Inhibits mildew growth * How to use this product

          1. DanH | May 20, 2009 08:06pm | #18

            For those you want the wood to be reasonably dry.You should check the labels for the recommended max time before applying a top coat.
            As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz

          2. dockelly | May 20, 2009 09:35pm | #20

            Do you have a preference between Benjamin Moore and Sherwin?  Read a post regarding Sherwin Duration, same enviroment, and 10 years later looked new with power washing.

          3. DanH | May 20, 2009 10:59pm | #21

            I've always used BM, but I don't disbelieve that SW is just as good. Those are the only two brands I really trust, though, since I don't use the stuff daily so I can't keep track of how the quality of the others rises and falls.BM easily lasts ten years in our climate, and I would expect SW to do the same.
            As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz

          4. Piffin | May 20, 2009 11:19pm | #22

            Personally,I hae long been a BM fan, but am impressed with the latest from SW more.My BIL is a painter and he has switched to SW for exterior paints.
            the Store guys here tell me SW has another paint other than Duration similar to it for older work like you have.Seems that the Duration dries so fast, it can occasionally pull up old paint under it. The other product is a bit slower drying, something I would want in hot weather down there anyways. I think the name is Renewal or something like that. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          5. dockelly | May 21, 2009 03:16am | #23

            The name is Resilience, I have a link to it earlier in this thread. I was just telling Shep in another thread, I can get the BM at a 40% discount but would prefer to spend the extra bucks if the SW was better. I'll be real meticulous with the prep, so whatever I choose won't fail because of that.

          6. TommH | May 21, 2009 06:35pm | #27

            Doc... I wouldn'd worry too much about moisture if you are working in the summer. A day or so of summer sun will dry the bare wood enough for paint. 15 years ago, I stripped 2 sides of my house (Cedar shingles) completely before going back to paint and thus it was exposed to a lot of rain over a couple months. When it was time to paint, my only test was that it was dry to the touch. BM oil primer and acrylic top coat, 2 coats of each. 15 years later it still looks great. When I did the rest of the house, I wised up and painted as I stripped...much more efficient, less moving of ladders and staging.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels

Listeners write in about fireplaces and ask questions about sharpening hand tools, easier wiring upgrades, and fixing cedar siding.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Hand Tool Sharpening Tips
  • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • A Drip-Free, Through-Window Heat Pump

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in