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I plan to install molding in a room and need some advice. Not crown molding, just molding where the ceiling and wall meet. About 60′ total.
The walls and ceiling will be painted with rollers/brush.
I hate to paint along trim
I was planning on installing the trim temporarily, then prime, paint, etc.
Paint the walls and ceiling then install the molding.
Does this sound reasonable?
I have a PC FN205A nailer. I plan to shoot the temporary nails into just the sheetrock so I can pull ’em out easily.
I have a mitre box and a scroll saw for cutting the corners. Might pick up a coping saw.
Any advice is appreciated!
Replies
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Why bother to put it up twice? Prep & paint first. Decide your layout and go to town.
Besides, if you plan on a temporary installation you'll have to shoot into the same hole to avoid having twice as many holes to fill. Holding power will be reduced when you shoot into the same nailhole and you will probably enlarge or otherwise further damage the stock when you do so. You could use a smaller nail for your temp. installation. That way you will have more bite when you do the final installation.
When hanging moulding, it is not necessary to paint right to the wall/ceiling transition; the moulding will cover.
Do pick up a coping saw. Especially when working with a mitre box. Trying to cut compound angles using a box will drive you crazy without the coping saw.
*Rooney, you say:"I was planning on installing the trim temporarily, then prime, paint, etc. "So, I gather the trim is to be painted (as opposed to stained), probably with a different paint than the walls & ceiling.For painted trim, the trim needs to be primed (before or after installation), then caulked in at the ceiling, walls, and joints and then nail holes need to be filled with some kind of putty. I like Dap Painters putty in the red can. Next the trim needs to be painted and the wall & ceiling paint is cut in to the trim. The top coats can occur in which ever order you feel comfortable with i after the trim is installed.The trim needs to be caulked in to produce professional results. The caulk needs to be painted as if it is not, it will discolor over time and look bad. Use a good quality (30+ yr.) acrylic latex caulk.If it is difficult to get the results you want during the paint cut in stage, as it is for me, having only 15 minutes of "paint patience", and not the steadiest hand in the world, a strait edge that they sell in any paint department can be very helpful. A i good brush helps a lot too.Sorry, prepainting the trim seems like a good theory, but in practice it doesn't really work out as it needs to be repainted after installation.And as Rich said - your idea of coping the corners is kinda necessary.Good Luck.
*Matt, I'm like you; I don't have much "paint patience", especially when working overhead. Nor do I have the required steady hand. For these reasons I prefer to top paint before installation. After installation and puttying the holes, I simple do the required touch-up. Your idea of painting the caulk is a good one, but I'll leave that for the other guy.
*Rooney: Summarizing and emphasizing...1. Paint the ceiling2. Paint the walls3. Sand/prime/sand/1st coat the trim4. Install the trim, coping the corners with your new coping saw while pondering whatever use you might have made of the scroll saw5. CAULK THE TRIM TO THE WALLS AND CEILING6. Fill the nail holes7. Cut in the trim with your second coat, and touch up any scuff marks on the walls and ceiling, cutting back onto to the caulk line to maintain even trim revealsHope you're pleased with the nice job you'll do, Steve
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All the advice here is correct. The one thing i would add is about the caulking. Dont caulk and leave a bead that you can see, Run a bead of caulk then wipe it out with your finger or a damp paper towel only what needs to be left behind remains. I have seen homeowners do caulking and it can be brutal. It would be a shame to do everything the right way and see big beads of caulk left behind. Good luck
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I'm still remarkably incompetent with a caulking gun, so I'd also recommend:
1) Get a good quality caulking gun, the extra 5-10 dollars is well worth it
2) Make sure you don't trim the nozzle so that your bead is too big, especially for this kind of work where you will want a very small bead.
3) Learn patience if you don't already have it.
*Olav:4) Always have a damp cloth draped across your arm when caulking. That way it's right there handy for use as p.jones recommends.5) Match caulk type carefully to the job type and never use cheap caulk.
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I plan to install molding in a room and need some advice. Not crown molding, just molding where the ceiling and wall meet. About 60' total.
The walls and ceiling will be painted with rollers/brush.
I hate to paint along trim
I was planning on installing the trim temporarily, then prime, paint, etc.
Paint the walls and ceiling then install the molding.
Does this sound reasonable?
I have a PC FN205A nailer. I plan to shoot the temporary nails into just the sheetrock so I can pull 'em out easily.
I have a mitre box and a scroll saw for cutting the corners. Might pick up a coping saw.
Any advice is appreciated!