I’m building a closet to house a floor mop sink. The closet will be just big enough to hold the sink and no bigger.
I am disappointed that the mop sink has no lip around the edge as most bathtubs have.
So I’m guessing that I build the walls so there is room for the drywall (5/8) between the sink and the studs. Then the glassboard ends on top of the sink. This is what I plan to do unless someone tells me I’m wrong.
Alternatives might include using green board instead of drywall and/or running the glassboard down to the floor.
Thanks,
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.
Replies
bump
OK first the stupid question what does the " bump" mean?
I have been doing plumbing for 25 years all floor mop sinks I have put in , are installed during the rough in stage right up against the studs then rock lays right on top edge. Some cast iron sinks have a small lip but nothing major.
90% of the sinks I have done had a wainscoat above them FRP in most cases but have seen plastic laminate as well.
I have seen tile but a limited sitiuation in commercial land.
Your idea will work puting in rock then sink then the glassboard but it is over kill.
When you bump something in a discussion forum, it carries it back up to the top of the stack in the left window, so that people see it again and it doesn't get lost.
So, you bump an request that you haven't gotten any answers to yet to see if someone will see it one their next pass through the site.
NotaClue
hey thanks I was getting tired of wondering
Thanks.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
disappointed that the mop sink has no lip around the edge as most bathtubs have
Huh? Maybe I haven't looked recently, but my memory is that the way one identifies a mop sink is by its lip. Now, I've seen some utility/laundry room sinks that floor mount that are very shallow-lipped. But, my understanding was that they were for drip-dry situations like wet raingear and the like. (Always seemed a bit of a waste of a floor trap, or a risk for a "gone dry though unuse" trap to me, too--but, that's me.)
After I'd thought about it, I decided that it makes sense there is no lip. I've seen many mop sinks that are not "surrounded" by walls, maybe only in a corner, or just against one wall. In those cases a lip that ends up not against a wall would be vulnerable to damage.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
Rich, is this one of those FG or composite slop sinks with a narrow flat ledge around three sides and a wider one at the back for the faucet set? What kind of mounting does it take?
Can you post a pic of it?
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
Dinosaur,Fiberglass, or some kind of plastic. I'm not sure.No flat ledge for faucet. Faucet is wall mounted.I can post a pic but not until Monday (if I remember to take the pic!).Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
Okay, no ledge/wall-mounted hardware is good. Simplifies things.
Build the closet to allow say ½" clear from the finish around the sides and the front; figure to push the sink flush to the back wall.
There's this panel I see used all the time in commercial for building toilet stalls in cans. It's half-inch or 5/8; white; not melamine. Very waterproof. More of a FG or some kind of plastic. Wish to heck I knew what it was called. My brain is friggin' useless these days.... You must have seen it around.
Anyway, get some of that jazz and just 'rock' the walls with it all the way to the floor. You do the joints with white silicone caulk--a very thin bead, like an eighth or three-sixteenths. Cover the screw holes with those little white plastic buttons that plug right into the drive hole in the screw (use Robertson-head flooring screws).
Set the sink on it's stand, hook up yer tailpiece and it's a done deal.
If you wanna get anal, put in a floor drain first and tile the floor....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.