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Discussion Forum

More on load bearing walls

user-319614 | Posted in General Discussion on August 5, 2002 02:42am

I am removing a glass sliding door to the patio and want to remove 2 feet more of the wall.  I need to put in a new header to cover the door opening and the extra 2 feet that I am opening up.  The wall is an outside wall, at an l corner of the house. I went to Home Depot to order the glu lam header and they asked me to calculate the amount of pressure on that wall.

Can someone PLEASE tell mehow to do that?

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Replies

  1. Piffin | Aug 05, 2002 02:50am | #1

    Probably not, especially with the amt of info given and not knowing what you have innocently omitted.

    some general rules of thumb;

    Keep the wall solid for four feet back from the corner. It sounds like you plan to violate that one.

    For headers bearing only the roof and not another floor, a pair of 2x8 will span eight feet, but I don't know if you have another floor and your span might be a little over for the rough openning and the pair of jacks under each end of it so probably 2x10s or 2x12s

    Now how are you planning to hold up the load while you replace it.

    Excellence is its own reward!
    1. user-319614 | Aug 05, 2002 03:13am | #2

      Piffin

      Thanks for the answer.

      Actually, the two feet will take us right up to the four feet that we need to leave for the corner.  I knew about that one from having done a previous move and replacement of window/ door.  The funny thing is, I know about that rule but whoever built this house sure didn't!  We've actually opened up walls and put in extra bracing and sheer wall at two points and will probably open up the wall completely check the bracing and add sheer wall.

      ABout supporting the wall.  This is an outside wall that is parallel to the roof trusses and with only the roof resting on the wall, not a second story. We were going to do a stud support on every second truss.  However, we can only support one truss that way since it is running parallel.  We don't need to run the support the other way because the wall is still in place.  ANy suggestions or warnings?

      And I still don't know how to calculate the size of the header!  I guess I could open it up, use the same size header with 2 feet added on and be safe.

      Also, we are adding supporting walls under the roof that does extend totally out over the area we are enclosing.  We will also be adding sheer wall to the areas we are enclosing.

      We don't have the luxury of working with a building inspector here.. in the past we've had the best luck with having inspectors that we could ask questions of and getthe right answers.  The area really doesn't give building permits unless you are doing all kinds of new things.  I was told doors, enlargements and windows just don't need a permit.

      1. Piffin | Aug 05, 2002 03:24am | #3

        If this is an end wall parrallell to the trusses, it doesn't sound like a load bearing wall. But since the rule of thumb would say a pair of 2x4s for four feet, sixs for six feet, eights for eight feet, etc, then you would need a pair of 2x8 or 2x10.

        Another way a lot of us figure headers for an eight foot wall is to just use all 2x12s. Placed under a double top plate, that puts your opennings all at the same height and door and window trim lines up.Excellence is its own reward!

        1. FastEddie1 | Aug 05, 2002 05:43am | #4

          You might be smart to go to a lumber yard, not HD, and sketch what you plan to do.  They would probably be more helpful.

          1. user-319614 | Aug 06, 2002 04:33am | #5

            Thank you for the help!  I do think you are exactly right to take the drawing to Franklin Lumber, guys who are mostly contractor driven as far as sales, and they probably would be able to help.

            Thanks again!

          2. Davo304 | Aug 06, 2002 06:24am | #6

            Try looking this up....

            The Online Span Calulator

            http://www.cwc.ca/design_tools/calcs/SpanCalc0399/Span_US.htm

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