I’m a drywall newbie or wannabe, not quite sure – either way, I always have drywall questions…
I’m touching up some patches (see attached). The drywall around the patch is obviously not the tapered ends where tape normally goes. But in a case like this, should I tape the seams or just fill them in? If I do put on tape, would you use paper or the mesh?
thanks,
Joe
Replies
Just to keep this going, I'm no taper but yes you do need to tape the joints.
Cut a v-grove where the two joints meet and then tape over as normal. I use paper but other with more knowledge may say different.
Doug
Tape it.....paper or mesh is your choice...which are you more comfortable with?
Remove the switchplate before you begin.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Use paper tape. Use FG mesh for tapered joints only, though I don't even use it for that; I hate the grid 'telegraphing' thru after the first &/or 2nd coats.
Edit, I'd kill power to the switches, pull the plate and both switches and remove them (label the lines for later) and push them into the box. Your patch repair is real close to the box, and the best repair would be done if the switches were removed (assuming you're not real proficient at taping/mudding.)
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
Edited 9/1/2005 9:20 pm ET by NickNukeEm
If you want to do it like a real drywaller, be sure to fill the box with mud...electricians like that. :)
What you have here, Ma'am, is a bad case of wiremold.
If you haven't drawn blood today, you haven't done anything.
Come on now, a real drywaller cuts up the wires with his roto-zip. :>)
first you have to run the rotozip in there and cut the insulation on the wires.
then cover it in mud.
Yeah, if they bother to cut the box out at all. I had 70 boxes covered in a 36 unit apartment building once.
So, how do you turn on the lights?If you haven't drawn blood today, you haven't done anything.
Please go to "Gutdang sheetrockers" thread in general disscusion for proper sensitivity retraining. ; ^ )
Drywallers are people too. ; ^( Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Take off the switch plate.....cut a V groove with your knife. Use paper tape. (ever lap of the corners) Do three coats, lightly sanding between each, last coat, finish with a 12" knife. Float it out wide to hide it good.
On that corner, put a metal corner bead up, screwing in good, every 6 inches or so. USe a 6 inch knife to swipe mud on horizontaly (do just one first) then do one smooth vertical swipe down with steady pressure to finish it smooth. Repeat after drys and is lightly sanded with larger knives.When in doubt, get a bigger hammer!
That's not bad it's less than 2 per unit.
That was a tough one to back charge, for the GC. There were two drywall contractors and several subs working for those two. It was an apartment building, cheap, cheap, cheap.
I'm glad that I do high-end homes now. I get to work with good drywallers.
Mike, I'm guessing you are one of the good drywallers, for one thing you hang out on this site. At least I know you care.If you haven't drawn blood today, you haven't done anything.
Pull the cover and switches cap and stuff some newspaper or scrap paper in the box first
Paper tape is usually easier to work with
mud it, sand it, top it, sand it, paint it, put the switches and cover back, done.
coverplate looks a little crooked???
Good eyes Lemon,
It is a little, but I've got a little play to straighten it out. I also think a crooked cut on the drywall is making it look worse than it really is.
Joe,use the butt end of you mud knife to sort of push in on the joints to keep the pointy corners of the drywall from poking through you mud or cut the joints with a sharp knife in a Vee. If you sand too much and get paper fuzz, shallow cut out the offending paper with sharp blade and start over with the mudhave fun, drywall mud washes out pretty easy out of you hair....Dont ask, as a part timer, you'll find out when you shower later.good luckI cut the board twice and its still too short ! ! !
three sided california patch would to the trick.
cut the patch bigger on the but joints by 2" per, score the back of the drywall 2" in and peel the gypsum away from the face paper... apply setting compound around the hole, apply setting compound around the patch, place the patch, smooth out the paper and screw off, when setting compound has kicked use drying compound to finish the project.
james
I'm about to suggest insanity here ...
so ... Is this your house? and are U seated?
looks like both the existing wall and the patch are well secured.
if so ... go back and double screw both of them.
Now ...
mix up the perfect batch of National Gypsum Easy Sand 45 ... and do a nice coat to fill the voids. This is after you've used your utility knife to back cut both pieces.
don't overfill! Just fill ... tight.
Now ... wait.
then ... when it's dry ... scrap it flat with a not so flexible utility knife.
and ... quick wipe with an almost not wet sponge or paper towel ... hit it again with another mix of the same easy sand ... this time not so "tight" ...
just a skim coat.
repeat.
Now ... scuff sand ... and do one "prefinal" coat ... real loose .... same stuff.
it'll dry quick ... and one more "final" ... and before that dries hard ... trowel it smooth with a clean/dry drywall knife. U can actually "work it" dry as U go ... almost like working old plaster.
"if" the layers aren't too thick .. it'll set and there will be no cracking after painting.
That's right ... no tape ... no cracks ... just like the old days of plaster repair.
But ... U didn't hear it from me ....
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Isn't that an outside corner just left of the switchplate?
nobody mentioned it, but you need a metal corner on that. tape won't do it unless you use no-mud tape.
You need tips on how to set the corner bead too?
Welcome to the
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where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I would definately use joint tape. The stuff I like for situations like this is self-stick paper tape. Since it doesn't require a layer of compound to adhere it to the wall, it's easier to get a flatter butt joint. And, these kinds of joints are not subject to much stress, so they don't require a "full-strength" tape joint.
However, I think the joints are too close to the switch plate to get a nice flat finish. I would consider cutting out a larger section of drywall (maybe 2' X 2', or to the next stud). That way, after feathering out the butt joints, the switch plate will still be sitting on the drywall itself.
The other alternative would be to remove the switches (as others mentioned) and compound over the whole area. This approach may be more difficult for an inexperienced spackler than just replacing this section with a larger one.
-Don