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I sent this note of thanks as an e-mail to some of you, but to two of four people it was returned as undeliverable. Because the original thread had already skipped into the archives, I figured I’d just make a new thread:
Hey guys, just a note of thanks for your responses to my Breaktime post this past weekend. I think there was some confusion because I wasn’t articulate enough with my description, but Mark got it right with his second post. I’m building an addition to our house that includes a walkout basement shop. The steel beam (spanning 22 ft.) carries some of the load of two floors that will be added above it and the nailer plate on top of the beam is for securing the first-floor joists.
I posted the question for two reasons:
1) I had a nagging suspicion that code may require adhesive at any joint where steel meets wood. I have a good working relationship with our building inspector and normally I would have just called him on the phone for the answer. But it was Sunday morning and I wanted to get the work done.
2) The two best pieces of 2X6X12 ft. that I could find at the lumberyard included one with some minor twist and one with a significant bow in it. I was reasoning that the construction adhesive would help to suck them flat to the steel and keep them there, so I wouldn’t end up with bulges in the floor above.
My friend Andy had suggested using a hand-hammered Ramset to drive nails into the steel. But I’m not well-versed in that tool and the thought of sitting on a beam 10 ft. off a concrete floor, driving steel projectiles with a 22-cal. bullet just made me a little nervous.
To let you know how it turned out, I posted the question at 9:30 and shortly after lunch I started to nail the joists in place. By that time only George had responded. Mark, thanks for the tip on TEK screws—next time I’ll know better. I drilled a total of 12 holes in the top plate of the beam—two on each end and two in the middle of each 2X6, and I did use construction adhesive. Even then, the bow in one board was not going completely flat so I stuck some clamps on it, which seemed to do the trick.
Replies
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Bill...
You're quite welcome. Let us know how the rest of the project is going and be sure to ask if you have any more questions.
I guess you've found out here that there isn't always a right and wrong way to do something, just several different ways that may be more or less applicable depending upon the specific circumstances.
*"the thought of sitting on a beam 10 ft. off a concrete floor, driving steel projectiles with a 22-cal. bullet just made me a little nervous. "My jewels started squirming around just from thinking about it! Next time your 'friend' suggests something like that, say "there it is, old buddy, show me how!"LOL
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I sent this note of thanks as an e-mail to some of you, but to two of four people it was returned as undeliverable. Because the original thread had already skipped into the archives, I figured I'd just make a new thread:
Hey guys, just a note of thanks for your responses to my Breaktime post this past weekend. I think there was some confusion because I wasnt articulate enough with my description, but Mark got it right with his second post. Im building an addition to our house that includes a walkout basement shop. The steel beam (spanning 22 ft.) carries some of the load of two floors that will be added above it and the nailer plate on top of the beam is for securing the first-floor joists.
I posted the question for two reasons:
1) I had a nagging suspicion that code may require adhesive at any joint where steel meets wood. I have a good working relationship with our building inspector and normally I would have just called him on the phone for the answer. But it was Sunday morning and I wanted to get the work done.
2) The two best pieces of 2X6X12 ft. that I could find at the lumberyard included one with some minor twist and one with a significant bow in it. I was reasoning that the construction adhesive would help to suck them flat to the steel and keep them there, so I wouldnt end up with bulges in the floor above.
My friend Andy had suggested using a hand-hammered Ramset to drive nails into the steel. But Im not well-versed in that tool and the thought of sitting on a beam 10 ft. off a concrete floor, driving steel projectiles with a 22-cal. bullet just made me a little nervous.
To let you know how it turned out, I posted the question at 9:30 and shortly after lunch I started to nail the joists in place. By that time only George had responded. Mark, thanks for the tip on TEK screwsnext time Ill know better. I drilled a total of 12 holes in the top plate of the beamtwo on each end and two in the middle of each 2X6, and I did use construction adhesive. Even then, the bow in one board was not going completely flat so I stuck some clamps on it, which seemed to do the trick.