When putting up T-11 siding ( I think that is the name) on this shed I am building it called for 6d galvanized nails. Is there a reason why you can’t use galvanized screws here? Curious.
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Scooleen, I'm not a contractor, not even a carp. But, I've been here at Breaktime long enough to know the answer, drywall screws, nothing but drywall screws...
You caught on quick...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
>> But, I've been here at Breaktime long enough to know the answer, drywall screws, nothing but drywall screws...
Excellant observation. An insider's trick: use long enough drywall screws and you can hang the kitchen cabinets at the same time!
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Onther one is with long screws you can back screw the DW to hang it.
Saves on finishing.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Scooleen, I'm sorry to have hijacked your question. But I couldn't help myself, you would have to have a history here to understand. I do hope someone can give you some information that is useful.
Love screws, but not a fan of the generic galvanized ones. I find they rust quickly in exposed locations.
I've had very good results with the ceramic coated Deckmaster screws. They are much stronger as well. Takes some serious abuse to snap one. 'Posidrive' style head is great with an impact driver, which is tough on standard P2 bits.
Stainle$$ is good too.
You could but why would you or need to? So much exra work and expense for what.
If you are uncomforable with a 6d move up to an 8d. Make it hot dipped an you'll have something.
BTW. How much material do you have to go thru before you hit a stud?
This is a good time to get a siding nailer or FRH framer. Compressor too if you haven't one. Flex Eel hoses and .....
You can start a thread or jump in at the Tool folder as to which is the best of these and what you should buy..... ROAR!!!
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
I'll jump in here,, (in the past there have been very long threads talking about sheetrock screws and how weak they are..)
Anyway to answer your question, of course you can use screws.. I'm building my house now with mainly screws and it's dramactically stronger in one direction and only mildly stronger in another direction.. The only real negative is that screws are much slower to put in than nails..
Screws are dramatically slower than nails (evan hand nailed) so if you are willing to spend the time there might be some benefit..
By golly, frenchy, all this time, I think your housae got it's strength from those heavy beams. now I find out its been screwed.
My delusions are over, my eyes are openned. Screw it..
Excellence is its own reward!
Have you guys seen or tried GRK screws yet?
http://www.grkfasteners.com
I really like these little buggers. Taint cheap McGee. They really drive well and are hard to strip or break. Check'em out.
CurlyHand Hewn Restorations Inc.
Restoring the past for the future.
GRK is what I use and recommend. They ain't all little buggers either! Some are bigger buggers. I have some 12" lag type.
I am curious as to the reason schooleen is thinking of screwing it instead of nailing.
Cost? Happen to have a box of screws? Trying to do better? DIY who hits fingers too much with hammer? Looking for excuse to buy a new tool?.
Excellence is its own reward!
Edited 11/25/2003 6:54:25 PM ET by piffin
Looking for excuse to buy a new tool?
How many times must we cover this???
Excuses are NOT needed...nor is an explanation.
geezz....
OK, New terminology needed -
"Tool purchase foreplay"
;).
Excellence is its own reward!
speaking of forplay
Is it bad if getting a new tool is almost as good as sex?
depends on what your definition of a tool is.
or worse yet............ his definition of sex...........
I go by the Clinton doctrine on that one.
I used stainless steel square drive screws simply because I had them, and yes, they are alot easier to use than hammer and nails.
How soft/hard are the stainless steel screws? I have trouble with cam-out even with square drive screws (do far better with the Deck-Mate phillips/square drive combination). Any problem with the larger stainless steel on bending or caming out?
You can order hardened 18/8 grade stainless and you will have less cam out (assuming your bits are new and you drive square and true) I find a variable speed driver is better to reduce the amount of camout.
But to answer your question, stainless steel will be softer than regular steel.. the nickle in it that makes it not rust is what does it,,
Being a canuck, i'm used to Robertson screws (square drive to you newcomers). 99.9% of the time, cam out is due to either the driver or the screw not being to spec. the size and taper are very specific, for that exact reason. There are millions of cheap driver bits around, and they should be thrown in the trash.
Incidentally, that one of the reasons (patents being another) that Phillips heads became so popular with manufacturers - it is almost impossible to overdrive a phillips head, as the bit pops out at a certain torque.
Ya been checkn yer SPAM lately?
"Is it bad if getting a new tool is almost as good as sex?"
Well, it is for me.
One time on the board I said that plowing was better 'n sex. And someone replied that I was doing it wrong.
Of course I told them I wasn't - I've been plowing a long time, and know how to do it right.....................(-:According to the latest poll, 61% of Americans think OJ did it. The other 39% don't think.
Scooleen,
While these guys go chuckle in the corner, let me try to give you a decent answer -
if I can stopp giggling long enough to type straight.
I have this thing about being vehemently opposed to using SR screws for anything other than SR. I suppose as did everyone else that the generic screws you refer to are actually plain old cheap sheetrock screws.
These are brittle metal but they rarely if ever break when used for the intended purpose, because the paper surface of drywall doesnot torque the heads enough to fracture the metal.
I have seen too many of them with the heads popped off when I remodel and remove kitchen cabinets that were hung with them. When the shoulder of the screw head comes in contact with the harder wood, it gets hurt. eventually, a whole wall cab could possibly fall of the wall.
So the gang here lovingly calls them Piffin screws.
If you were buiilding a house, it might not pass inspection in some places if the T1-11 were screwed on with them, structural screws would be better but still won't pass in some places because they are not certified by codes.
But this is just a shed. Screw it. How much shear strength can a shed wall need anyway? Maybe use a couple extra screws here and there. We all like a little extra screwing around.
;)
I also assume that this T-1-11 will be your structural sheathing and not a siding material only.I think every one else did too.
.
Excellence is its own reward!
Piff
I'm keepin' out of this one....I can't believe I'm even reading this right....DW screws on "exterior T-111" ????????? I musta had one too many Corona's (or not enough)
HAppy thanksgiving to you and yers)
Be screwed......huh?????
andyMy life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
OK you got me,, technically they are lag bolts (or lag screws to use the british) however all of the panels are held in place by the 14 inch screws used to hold the panels in place..
All this has been discussed here before. To summarize:
Screws are vastly superior to nails in resisting pulling straight out. Nails are generally better in resisting forces perpendicular to the fastener. Some kinds of screws are so brittle as to be worse than worthless for structural purposes, but they're available for cheap in vast quantities for installing drywall. For that purpose, you really don't need a screw that's much stronger than the drywall itself. Codes generally require nails. It would be difficult for inspectors to tell whether screws are the good kind or the brittle kind just by looking at them. For the pros, a nail gun works faster than a screw gun. For a diy, hand hammering is probably close to a wash with using a drill/driver.
-- J.S.