Can someone help an amateur trying to install a pre-hung entry door? It’s actually the door from my garage to my house. I bought the door from a local lumber and millwork company. It is a flush birch faced door where the inside of the door slab is made of some kind of particle board with a solid wood perimeter and a birch facing. The door is very heavy and I am working alone. Due to the weight of the door, and a cramped work space, it is difficult to get everything plumb and tack the door in place. I have never seen this suggested, but why can’t I just tack the hinge side of the door jamb in place with the door off the hinges, put the door back on the hinges, and then line up and nail the latch side of the jamb. Maybe a dumb idea, but I thought I would run it by this forum.
I also have a second question. I knew my rough opening was a little shorter than normal. I had to cut the jambs shorter by 1 inch and the slab by 1/2 inch which the lumber yard said was okay. Should I be okay if I want to cut another 1/4 to 3/8 off the bottom of this type of door to accommodate an oak threshold?
Thanks.
Replies
why can't I just tack the hinge side of the door jamb in place with the door off the hinges, put the door back on the hinges, and then line up and nail the latch side of the jamb.
that is the way it is normally done - pull the hinge pins to remove the door
Should I be okay if I want to cut another 1/4 to 3/8 off the bottom of this type of door to accommodate an oak threshold?
Since it sounds like you're working with a solid-core door, you should be OK. Probably OK with a hollow core too, but sometimes they get skimpy with the wood strip at the bottom.
CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Thanks. Yes, it is a solid core door.
Plan on installing a 2-1/2 to 3'' screw in one of the hinge screw locations-mostly the top hinge but you can put one in all three hinges. Use the location that will get that screw in the framing. A heavy door will pull hard on that top hinge.
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Thanks. Does the long screw have to pass directly through a shim?
Either through or right next to. You want to be able to get the screw tight without warping the jamb.
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Get the jamb close with shims and nails-The screw you put in merely firms up the connection. Also allows you to pull it in toward the framing a bit after the fact. I find it works well if the shim is kept adjustible-no nail or screw through it. Allows you to pull it in or out to fine tune.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Is there a fire rating on the door? Hopefully your supplier knew what you were going to use it for. IIRC garage to house should be fire rated depending on what code your local Authority Having Jurisdiction has accepted. Solid core should be ok but could be a problem if house is sold and some inspection is required.
In any case it is now your door after trimming. I would hang it just like you said. I like to put a couple of the long screws in each hinge esp the top and middle.
The supplier said a solid wood entry door meets local code, so I took his word for it. The door I am replacing was a hollow core door you could put your fist through. Thanks for your comments.
If you are in doubt about where the meat of the door bottom or top is....you can use a regular electronic stud finder to pinpoint it.
If the door actually is solid, that's not a problem. Pay attention to where the lockset has to go when trimming much off of the door.
Removing the doors from the jambs is the only way to fly. - lol
I like to sit the jamb in the opening, shim the top on both sides (just tight enough to hold it in place), and nail it at the top hinge. Then I use a 6' level on the top and bottom hinge barrels and shim at the bottom hinge to get it dead plumb in both the open and closed positions - then nail it off at the bottom. With the top and bottom hinge barrels plumb, I use the level as a guide to shim the center hinge into alignment with the top and bottom hinges.
With the hinge jamb installed, hang the door and use it as a guide to space, shim, and nail the top and latch-side jambs.
Most doors have a wide bottom stile, so trimming shouldn't be a problem. With the jamb installed, I would remove the door, (sorry 'bout that - lol), install the threshold and take careful measurements from the inside of the head jamb to the threshold. Use them to mark and cut the door to final length.
Before reinstalling the door, put a couple of coats of primer (or some finish) on the raw bottom edge to seal it.
FWIW, I've been using the hinge barrels to plumb the hinge jamb for a couple of years now and no longer get the occasional self-swinging door.
pwood, If you remove the door from the frame,remove only the bottom hinge screws from the jamb's leg. Then swing the door about half open and using a hammer and a flat screwdriver tap up and remove the top pin.
(This will make it much easier when you re- hang the door.)
Take the jamb and place it flat on the floor (or across two horses) with the attached trim side down. Tack two 18" long strips of lath or lattice strip diagonally across the top center down to the left and right legs. approximately 45 degree angle.
Use a square to ascertain that the top corners are square. Cut off any wood sticking beyond the frame legs. Another strip about 4 inches up from the floor all across the bottom legs should also be tacked and trimmed. Make sure the distance across the bottom is the same as at the top.
Good luck, Steinmetz.
Now, you'll be able to lift and place the frame in the opening and plumb,level,shim and nail the unit.
Remove the temporary strips (Braces) and proceed to install the door.
Hold the door with your thumb under the top hinge knuckle and grasping the lock (or it's hole,) tap in the pin. While holding the door fully open, insert the bottom hinge leaf in it's mortise, and install the screws.
Edited 8/31/2008 9:25 pm ET by Steinmetz