Edge Treatment of Zip board and Hardie Panel at end of deck
I’m replacing the door and windows in a sunroom, along with the siding, using Zip boards and vertical Hardie Panel with quarter inch rain screen furring. This gets me back to the thickness of the original vertical shiplap that was nailed directly to the studs over roofing felt back in the day. I’ll finish it off with battens. These are new materials to me, but there’s lots of info out there on their use, so I’m comfortable with what I’ve done, so far. On the wall corner edges, which will meet up with rock, I’ll use 5.5″ trim with a small corner piece attached to cover the fiber cement and Zip board edges.
But I’m at a loss about how to treat those edges where they meet the end of the deck, which is not at the end of the wall. About all I’ve come up with is to do the same thing as at the ends of the wall, but use a very narrow front facing trim piece and paint it the wall color to make it “go away.” Is there a better way to do this? Thanks for any advice!
Replies
Thanks for the pictures but I’m at a loss at to understand your question.
I could very well be having a dumb attack.
Hey Calvin, thanks for looking at this. I've uploaded the end of deck pic with a red ring that shows where the sheathing and siding will need to come to. I know I need a small corner shaped piece that will cover the fiber cement and zip board edges. I called James Hardie and they didn't have an answer. Maybe I'm a lousy communicator.
What I'm trying to say is, at the ends of a wall, you use a piece of trim with a 3/4" or so edge tacked on that makes a corner and covers the siding and sheathing edges. I need to do the same thing at the end of the deck, but was hoping somebody could tell me there is a small, corner shaped material for this type of purpose where it's not intended to show. I just need to protect the fiber cement and zip board edges and keep water out of the house at this location. I can fashion something that will work, but thought I'd try to see what others have done.
I still won’t be of any help. I use returns on siding but the sheathing usually caps itself at corners. I can understand taping zip corners.
Keeping a waterproof plane from top to bottom is the goal, sometimes achieved. Best of luck, there’s others here with more brains than I have at hand.
The Zip sheathing should but up to the deck ledger board tight - See attached detail. Is the last board, circled in red in your last attachment, need to be hangered to the house or is it just acting as the skirt/rim board along the perimeter of the deck? If not, then I would recommend removing the hanger and cut back the board and decking on top to allow you to slip the Zip sheathing behind it and tape the joints of the sheathing.
Please pass on my greeting to Dan Morrison if you know him.
Thanks!
Thanks for the response. Yes, too late to put the deck ledger in the same plane with the sheathing. I've gone ahead with something that will keep the water out and not look too klunky, hopefully :)
Do you mind showing us a photo of the route you took?
All I've done so far, is slipped a little sheet metal under the metal that was already there on the rim joist and filled the square hole and the rest of the wall above it with zip board. I'm leaving about 1/4 inch space to let surfaces dry. I don't have the siding up yet and haven't figured out what I'll cover those edges with, but there's no rush. Will put up a pic when I get it done.
Usually I just put what I call a baseboard over the deck boards. Basically just a piece of 1x or 5/4. So you would attach the deck ledger to the house, put on your deck ledger flashing, install deck boards leaving a 3/8” gap between the boards and the flashing for drainage, next the baseboard with flashing on top of it, then siding. On the right side just have the baseboard take a 90 degree turn south and terminate at the bottom of the joist. If you install this before the right most deck board it doesn’t have to be notched.