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Need to neutralize Cholrox?

limeyzen | Posted in General Discussion on April 1, 2004 03:54am

I want to refinish some pine (or perhaps cedar) V grooved boards that cover a large, 28′ X 12′ at it’s highest point, wall plus some other areas.  Right now they are a light muddy brown color ( awful) and it’s not clear to me if they’ve been stained or just aged.  But after experimentation with various approaches I’ve discoved that an application of full strength Cholorx results in a weathed streaky chalky white look that I quite like and propose to cover that with a coat of clear matt polyurethane.  On my sample I did wash down with clean water after the Cholrox (haven’t tried the poly yet) but that didn’t seem to make any difference to the result.  So, do I need to do anything to the Cholroxed boards before finishing them?

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  1. DanH | Apr 01, 2004 03:58pm | #1

    It should be sufficient to rinse well and allow to dry. During the drying process the last bits of chlorine will evaporate, leaving behind a very small amount of alkali salt.

    1. limeyzen | Apr 01, 2004 04:16pm | #2

      Thanks for the fast and clear response.  I'll try it.

  2. User avater
    Mongo | Apr 01, 2004 06:14pm | #3

    Chlorox is a fairly strong base, it has a pH somewhere, I think, between 11 and 12.

    While washing the boards with water will dilute and remove most of the base, since you're considering putting a cured film finish over the boards you may want to go one step further.

    The reason is that you're talking softwoods, and over time, the bleach, even dilute traces of bleach, could trash the cellulose structure of the soft wood. A film finish applied over weak wood fibers is not something I'd want to play with. And once you seal the wood...it's sealed. Less likely, but in addition, if some areas have more residual bleach than others, the color of the boards with the residual bleach may continue to change over time.

    If you want to go conservative, wash the wood with something acidic to help neutralize the bleach. A simple water-vinegar solution would work well. If I recall, most household vinegars are about 5% acetic acid and have a pH of somewhere between 3 and 4. Give the chloroxed wood a wash with a water/vinegar solution, let it sit, then rinse with just water.

    From the useless tidbit fact file, "vinegar" is derived from the French "vin aigre", which translates to "sour wine".

     

    1. limeyzen | Apr 01, 2004 07:10pm | #4

      Thank you for the addition.  When you say a solution of H2O and vinegar what's the ratio approx.  My sig other is of Greek descent so I'll have to point out to her that the French occaisonally "have a word for it"!

      1. DanH | Apr 01, 2004 11:55pm | #5

        > My sig other is of Greek descent

        In that case spray Windex on it. (;-))

        1. limeyzen | Apr 02, 2004 12:14am | #7

          And I'm English so I suppose that's why I don't get that one ! <g>

          1. DanH | Apr 02, 2004 01:23am | #9

            Surely your wife drug you to My Big Fat Greek Wedding???

          2. limeyzen | Apr 02, 2004 03:55am | #10

            Not my wife (don't have one) but yes she did but since I don't remember the signifigance of your reference I'll have to ask her!

      2. User avater
        Mongo | Apr 02, 2004 12:42am | #8

        2:1

        water:sour wine

  3. DavidThomas | Apr 02, 2004 12:14am | #6

    Chlorine is a very strong oxidizer - it acts like oxygen, chemically, only more so.  It really wants to accept electrons and that's how it bleachs, decolors, deodorizes, and kills things.

    To combat that, you need an "anti-oxidant".  Vitamin C being one that is available in commercial quantities as ascorbic acid. 

    A vivid demostration of this is while backpacking with "potable aqua" iodine tablets for water treatment.  Iodine is another powerful oxidizer.  The treated water smells, looks and tastes of it (similar to chlorine and bromine).  Adding a tiny ascorbic acid tablet clears the smell, color, and taste completely.

    Ascorbic, like acetic acid (vineagr), is pretty mild and therefore fairly safe to work with.

    David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska

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