Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Jan 02, 2003 04:19am | #1

   http://www.dykeslumber.com/mouldingdownload.asp

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

   "The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.

   The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."

   --Marcus Aurelius

2. 
   wwaficianado | Jan 02, 2003 04:45am | #2

   Feel I need to reply to your query.  I have a suggestion that would solve your problem and eliminate future repairs.  Sorry I don't mean to offend but why do you want to use wooden drip caps.  Brosco's drip caps are made out of pine which may have as short a life span as 5 years.  I have  seen builders use finger joint drip caps which defies all logic in my book.  I will never use any fingerjointed lumber in an exterior application. I have long since passed on using wooden drip caps.  They break, crack, rot, fail and also need paint often.  I  decided aluminum is the way to go on drip caps long ago. 

   
   

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   Edited 1/1/2003 8:46:44 PM ET by ww_aficionado

1. 
   MarkH128 | Jan 02, 2003 06:54am | #3

   Fingerjointed drip cap does not last at all. I put some up that failed completely after about 5 years, and it was properly primed and painted. I think the different pieces of wood expand and contract at different rates which busts the fingerjoints open, then water gets in and finishes it off in short order.

1. 
   royr | Jan 02, 2003 01:26pm | #4

   The exterior of my house is hemlock clapboard and red cedar shingles. All painted and stained. I need a drip cap that goes with everything. If there is a drip cap that wood look okay that was not brosco or pine ect I wood use it. Any suggestions?

   Roy

1. 
   Boxduh | Jan 02, 2003 04:58pm | #5

   For my all-wood exterior, all of the window and door head trims (they are 5/4 western red cedar) have copper drip flash above.

1. 
   TommH | Jan 02, 2003 07:37pm | #6

   Check http://www.nelumberspec.com which makes a number of products, including drip cap, from pvc. Looks like wood, but is bullet proof.

2. 
   xMikeSmith | Jan 02, 2003 08:46pm | #7

   if you need some width... try lath.. but i would definitely use soft copper , it'll look good last forever ( kinda )  you can bend it yourself..

   skip the wood drip edge, you can't keep it dry.. and it in turn will keep your window trim and siding wet and wicking  long after evrything else has driedMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

3. 
   Ragnar17 | Jan 02, 2003 11:43pm | #8

   Roy,

   I'm with the others here who say to avoid finger-jointing.  I use clear cedar.

   How long are the pieces you need?  I'm out here in Seattle where this stuff is stock at a number of yards.  If the pieces were less than 8', I know you could ship it UPS no problem.

   The only other suggestion I could give you is to talk to millshops in your area that run their own molding.  If need be, I'm sure someone could grind a knife for you and do a special run. 

   Ragnar

4. 
   luvmuskoka | Jan 03, 2003 12:03am | #9

   What Ragnar said. Mars lumber in West. Pa. probobly has a knife in stock. If not they will grind one.

   Ditch

1. 
   royr | Jan 03, 2003 04:56am | #10

   Thanks for the suggestions..........I'm going to get a price tomorrow on the PVC drip cap and also call Mars lumber here in PA. I called DYKES lumber ($1.90) a foot, sorry but no way am I paying that. If nothing else I'll make my own like we used to.

   thanks again

   Roy

1. 
   edwardh1 | Jan 03, 2003 05:07am | #11

   the uninformed person who built my house used some punky site cut wood for the bottom drip edge piece just above the band board that goes around the bottom. After about 9 years you could dig it out with a car key. Wood claps and the band boards were in great shape - pressure treated band board.I pulled the band boards off (2x12's) myself and replaced the drip pieces.

   i used treated lumber premade but sure would have used metal or PVc if I had known about it.

   wood is a crime.