New concrete next to asphalt driveway
We are going to be pouring a new concrete walkway next to an existing asphalt driveway. The concrete is replacing a lawn, so when you get out of your car, you don’t have to walk on the grass.
I was removing the sod and dirt and noticed that the edge of the asphalt is slightly beveled. I had been thinking of just pouring the concrete up to the asphalt, but now I’m not so sure for 2 reasons:
1. if (and when) that asphalt is replaced by a new concrete driveway (we’d do it now but can’t afford the expense) then the asphalt will be a bit under the concrete.
2. The edge isn’t perfectly straight.
3. The asphalt is old and pretty rough; pulling the screed over it will not leave as smooth and even surface as a 2x form board would.
I could just slap a 2×4 along the edge of the driveway, which would solve the straight part, and the smooth part and also even out any irregularity in the grade of the driveway, BUT then I’ve got a gap of 1 1/2 to 2 1/2″ between the two until the drive is replaced (could be years).
Here’s a little sketch that will make it all clear as mud.
If I could come up with a way to fill that little gap (the length of the drive is about 40 feet) then I wouldn’t have any issue with the 2×4.
Ideas?
Edited 10/23/2008 12:33 pm ET by geoffhazel
Replies
I vote for pavers.
Fill the gap with the sand.
I would rent a walk behind saw and cut the asphalt straight (fairly), place concrete form board evenly set from the the cut and pour. Remove form board and fill gap with gravel or appropriately sized concrete paver...
pour the concrete up to the asphalt so the meet tight, and when you want to pour a new driveway just cut the end of the walkway at 90*
I'm just sayin'
use a piece of treated 1 x4 bewteen the concrete and asphalt, leave it there
yea fill it with sand and then pull weeds constantly or put a board in it and let it rot boy you've gotten really good advice it won't hurt anything to pour the concrete right up to the edge of the pavement if your worried about it being straight the rent a saw and cut the pavement filling a gap with anything but a paver would look terrible why spend all the money on concrete for it to look like dirt?
Form the walkway with forms on both sides, in whatever configuration you want for the long haul.
After you pour and pull the forms, fill the gap between the concrete and old asphalt with cold patch.
When you are ready to replace the old asphalt, your walkway won't need to be disturbed.
Terry
Form the walkway with forms on both sides, in whatever configuration you want for the long haul.
After you pour and pull the forms, fill the gap between the concrete and old asphalt with cold patch.
When you are ready to replace the old asphalt, your walkway won't need to be disturbed.
Ding ding ding--we have a winner!
If the bevel isn't too steep, rip the 2x form on an angle so it is snug up against the black top. leave it in place until you are ready to redo the rest of the driveway. then take it out and you have a nice square edge to pour up against.
I took out my old circ saw and put a masonry blade on it. In less than a minute I scored a line 3/4" deep on the edge of the asphalt, and then took a flat 2" masonry chisel and broke off the lower part. I think it'll take less than an hour to trim up the entire edge of the asphalt enough to pour up to it and have it look good.I looked into renting a walk behind saw, and it's about $75.00 give or take plus 3/4 hr to get it and drop it off, plus time to use it. I'm sure it'd be more pleasant to walk behind a nice wet saw vs. working in the dust of the masonry blade, but I'm trying to keep costs down and it appears that it'll get the job done for $10-15 out of pocket. The time is a wash.Wish me luck.
BTDT... It works just fine. One tip, set a straight edge down to guide your circ. saw , you can use scaffold nails to hold it in place to the asphalt.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.