I have installed a new dry wall ceiling with mold resistant which has one side green and the other side white.
Do I need to put the joint compund all over the drywall or just on the seams?
Do I need to sand all of the drywall or just the seams?
How do I prep the drywall for painting?
Is there a special primer for new drywall?
Home Depot and Lowes sells a primer for new drywall, is this correct to buy and apply?
For the corners, do I need metal angles for joining
Replies
When all else fails read the instructions.
I think the first thing you should do is read the instructions on the box or bucket of mud.
That should answer most of your questions.
I would use a primer especially on the green board. Kilz is a good brand for mold resistance.
I would get the tape on corners myself. They're the ones w/ the paper on the edges.
Oh wait it's for a cieling so just use paper imbedded in mud for the inside corners.
Hope this helps. Oh and get a good light to shine around and look for stuff that you otherwise won't see until after you have the last coat of paint on.
Good luck, your gonna need it for your first time.
You have lots of questions! However, I am feeling magnanamous, here goes.....
Do I need to put the joint compund all over the drywall or just on the seams?
Just on the joints (seams), incorporating joint tape with the first coat. Also over the fastener heads (no tape).
Inside and outside corners also get joint compound with some form of reinforcement; could be just paper tape for inside corners, outside corners get a bead of some sort, metal, vinyl, etc.
You will get as many answers as you get responses as to favorite reinforcement techniques.
I personally like SureCorner for inside corners - a paper tape with 2 strips of steel attached to the paper, applied with setting type joint compound.
I like vinyl corner bead for outside corners, attached with spray adhesive and SS staples, then mudded in with setting type compound.
Flat joints between sheets or butt joints, I like just plain old paper tape bedded in setting type compound.
For corners which meet at other than 90 degrees, I like StraitFlex Medium tape, bedded in setting type compound.
The only tape which I do not like is the fiberglass tape (too thick) and especially dislike the "self adhesive" variety of this product. Personal bias, I have seen and reworked way too many botched projects which used this tape - on a positive note, the fiberglass tape seems to demo relatively easily - get a hold of one end and zip it out in pretty long sections!
Do I need to sand all of the drywall or just the seams?
Sand only the joint compound, do not sand the paper face of the drywall.
How do I prep the drywall for painting? Is there a special primer for new drywall?
1) Make the wall smooth by taping and finishing all of the drywall joints. Check your work by shining a light across the face of the drywall while doing your final sanding.
2) Once the wall is smooth -- Priming is the answer, I like Benjamin Moore Fresh Start primer, but there are many which will work very well. Read the can. Be aware that defects will show up after the wall is primed which you did not see before priming - they will need to be fixed.
I like BM Fresh Start because it is "sandable" meaning it is not tacky or gummy when dry. I can apply joint compound on top of this primer to fix any of the previously hidden defects; then spot prime any "repairs" before final painting.
Good luck,
Jim
Dude, if you've never done this before, you should go to a book store or library and get a book with LOTS of pictures.. I have no doubt that your job will turn out good, especially since you know of this site.. But seriously, theres lots of tricks, and it's really easy to to a bad taping job.. Good luck
All I ever wanted in life was an unfair advantage...
What the others said.
Plus, I'm not sure what product you used, but the paperless drywall I've used all spec'd setting-type compond (mix per use, not the pre-mixed stuff in the buckets) for all joints.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA