Replies

1. 
   Bob_Cox | Jul 13, 1999 06:02pm | #6

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   Our provincial building code requires a 6mil vapour barrier on the warm side of any insulated exterior wall - "....Thermally insulated wall, ceiling and floor assemblies shall be constructed with a vapour barrier sufficient to prevent condensation in the wall spaces, floor spaces or attic or roof spaces...." Ontario Building Code 9.25.4.1.

   Installing over metal stud is a real trick. If you are lucky you can hang the vapour barrier from the joists above and then fight with it while you board over. Any suggestions?

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 14, 1999 11:10pm | #7

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   I will be helping my son frame some rooms in his new house. What is the best reccommendation for attaching the new walls to the cement floor ? I have heard that there are some screws for this purpose.......do they require some pre-drilling ? Any and all suggestions will be appreciated.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 12, 1999 05:02pm | #1

   *John,Use metal track and stud, and shoot the tracks in with a powder actuated tool. Richard Max

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 13, 1999 12:08am | #2

   *Metal studs are a great idea for basement framing. If you don't wish to use a powder actuated fastener, there are cement screws available, as you wrote. They are generally called Tapcons, though that's a brand name, and other brands are available (Star is one). A hole must be pre-drilled, and a bit is usually included with the Tapcons. You'll probably dull the bit before using all of the screws in the box, so get some extras. You'll have fewer headaches if you use a hammer drill with a percussion masonry bit. The bit will also be one size smaller than the screw thread. For metal track, use the hex head screw. I find that Tapcons can hold very well if about an inch of thread is in the cement.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 13, 1999 02:53am | #3

   *John,Sorry about the quick post this morning I was running late. I use metal track in a basement exclusively. It doesn't rot, get eaten by critters, it's straight and true,is easier to work with in the confined space, and is far easier to carry down those narrow stairs or pass thru the window.Also in most cases I apply a continous 1 1/2" or 2" t+g blueboard insulation directly to the walls and frame over that with 1 5/8" track and stud. I think it gives a better job without losing additional space.Steve is right tapcons are great ,but I don't think they're neccesary here, get a single shot Remington either trigger pull or hammer type and your all set to go. 1" pins should be sufficient and depending on the density of your slab a box of browns, or greens should be fine, get some yellows too just in case. If you use 25 gauge ( I prefer the 20 gauge)then tie the studs into the wall by applying drywall scraps to the sides and cutting them flush to the face or bending stud scraps and shooting them to the wall, then zip them to the studs. Leave every fourth stud floating and face the open part of the stud toward your starting piece, you'll know why once you start rocking. Just be sure to screw the rock into the top and bottom tracks too. A crimper speeds the work along in non critical areas. Use regular 2 5/8" or 3 5/8" track and stud for the interior partitions if any. The 3 5/8" usually fits right under the main I beam if you are putting a partion there and the lollys end up in the wall. I use fire rated steel doors for utility areas, get the ones with knocked down bucks and make sure the throat size is correct . In my area we are required to use 5/8" type X sheetrock in all boilerrooms and other such areas.Make sure that you leave space to service and/or remove utility equipment, and that the boiler or furnace can breathe. If you can't get a steel door with louvers ,you can cut in your own. Hope this helps you some.Good luck,Richard Max

1. 
   Bob_Cox | Jul 13, 1999 10:21am | #4

   *Has anyone figured out a satisfactory way to apply poly vapour barrier to steel studs?

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 13, 1999 04:06pm | #5

   *Bob,Do you use vapor barriers in basements?If so, where do you put it and why?

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 14, 1999 11:10pm | #8

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   Bob,

   I can see how it would be difficult to hang plastic on the steel. The only thing I can think of is to screw a short scrap of 1x or 2x stock either at the top track or at the top of every other stud and staple the plastic to the blocks.

   I have gotten away from vapor barriers in finished basements altogether. Even though your code calls for them, I think you can argue the point that putting one in will cause condensation within the wall. Here's how. Unless you have a perfect vapor and water barrier on the earth side of a foundation wall moisture will migrate through from the exterior towards the interior by capilarity through concrete and block walls. The moisture level will be greater on the back side of the wall (within the insulation) and there is a great possibility that that moisture will condense on the first smoothe cool surface it finds (the plastic).

   According to a Canadian, Joe Lstiburek of Building Science Corp., it may be better to let moisture move back and forth through the concrete / frame wall / insulation assembly. The important thing is to stop air leakage that will transport lots of moist air all at once and cause condensation. Slow diffusion of water vapor will modulate the levels and help prevent condensation.

   Of course try to convince your code official of that.

   Mike