Hello all , newbie here . I am finished hanging new drywall , ready to do the dirty work . Filling all the screw dimples and corners . Any preferance as to tape or fiberglass screen for the joints . Also there is a light weight filler as an option over the regular joint compound ( premix ) has anyone used this for everything . Thanks in advance , Gary
Also what to use for sanding ?
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Unless there are are reasons not listed, use joint compound or all-purpose for taping joints. Paper tape is preferred (by me), but I use mesh all the time too, and its easier for a beginner. Topping mud for final coat, not to be confused with joint compound. Sand with sanding pole, heavier grit on the initial coats, finer grit on the topping, and 'dust' the walls off before texture.
Better to use less mud, and fill in on succeeding coats, beginners usually put too much mud on, and make lots of sanding for themselves, and lots of white dust for their jobsite.
CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
Thanks , this could be a real adventure . Gary
You can buy your mud in boxes ( most common) or buckets ( mostly all purpose). I use the boxed stuff and also the "light" compound cost a bit more but seems to spread better. Open the box fold over the plastic bag and dump the whole contents into a 5gal bucket. Add about 1/2 to 1 cup water and mix with a mud paddle, or you can use a mud masher looks like a big potato masher. This helps the mud spread better. You can cover the unused mud in the bucket with water for the next day or a plastic bag. I use paper tape, some say fiber tape will crack less. Use less mud = less sanding.
All purpose joint compound and paper tape for bead coat and first run over the tape. Thin the mud for the bead coat and make sure you get the tape pressed into it without having air bubbles and/or dry spots under it. Keep everything clean, leaving as no ridges of mud. Run the next coat of mud after evrthing has dried completely.
Use a sanding pole and a 100 or 120 grit sanding screen to lightly sand this coat, after it is dry.
Run subsequent coats with topping compound and sand between coats, if needed, with a 150 grit screen on the pole.
Try not to over sand outside the area of the mud. You'll fuzz up the paper and have a blemish when you prime paint.
Do not use the light weight compound for bedding tape. It is not as strong as the regular compound. It is meant as a topping compound and works well for that purpose since it sands much easier. You can use a sanding screen on a sanding pad, but it takes a light touch otherwise it leaves scratches. 100 grit sandpaper also works well. Again, a light touch is necessary to avoid damaging the drywall paper. I don't use a pole sander. I like to position myself where I can sand by hand with my right hand and use my left to feel for irregularities.
Paper tape is stronger than fiberglass mesh so stick with that. It helps to lightly wet the paper before applying it, but it's not absolutely necessary. Sometimes I use fiberglass or self-adhesive tape on butt joints because butt joints are usually fully backed by studs or nailers (fully-backed = less movement) and I can hide the joint with less compound build-up.
If you have any gaps between boards (anything bigger than about 1/8") fill them first with Durabond before taping. Durabond (a setting compound) doesn't shrink as it cures so it works well for this purpose. Make sure it's dry (and not just cured) before taping.
For inside corners, I often use an inside corner knife, but I only do this to save time since I can get both sides of the corner at the same time.
Another suggestion for inside corners is StraightFlex. It's seriously strong stuff and (if you don't use an inside corner tool) is almost impossible to cut accidentally with a taping knife. You can actually use StraightFlex everywhere, but it's not as cheap as paper tape. If you do use it, you can wet it first which is very easy since it's not very absorbent and won't get too wet.
The number one novice mistake is to use too much compound and then spending more time sanding than adding another coat. Been there, done that. Don't be afraid to do a little sanding between coats, but mostly you should be just knocking down any ridges until the final coat when the feathering is done.
After sanding, use a broom or rag to dust the walls before priming. I often use a very lightly damp rag which helps to do some final feathering, but be careful to not actually wet the compound.
I'm happy to expound upon any of those "tips" so feel free to ask if it's not clear.
Thanks for all the tips , I was also wondering if you should lightly wet the surface before applying mud then the tape , then top coat . This is a laundry room ( back porch ) so it will not see alot of moisture . I really appreciate all the advice . Gary
No, I don't think you should wet the drywall surface before compound/tape. There's plenty of moisture in the compound, it will stick just fine.
But I do find the tape sticks better if slightly moistened. I'm not really sure why that is. Maybe the compound starts to skin over as it sits waiting for the tape. I've gotten a lot better, but I'm still not particularly fast (to put it mildly).
No sanding between coats, that's just more mess. Use a taping knife to knock down ridges. Light sanding only after your last coat and the use a high-build surfacer/primer for maximum joy.
No sanding between coats, that's just more mess.
I completely agree that's the goal, but the advice was for a self-confessed newbie to taping. A little sanding between coats wouldn't be at all unusual for someone who hasn't had a lot of practice.
As for me, I'm still going to walk around the room with sandpaper in my hand before the next coat. I don't actually have to use it very much, but I like knowing that everything's really ready for another coat.
When I was a newbie, I did several things wrong. Too much compound under the tape. Too much compound on the joints. Too much sanding.
I'm still something of a newbie, but...
In your case I would use paper tape, wetted before taping so as to not dry out the compound and have a loose "bubble" in the tape, or curled up edges. Put enough compound under the tape to bed it down, not too much or it will become exposed during sanding and then you have a fuzzie spot.
Don't sand till the final coat. Just knock off the goobers with a taping knife.
Dont mess with it too much when it's wet, you'll just get more bubbles in it.
I like all purpose for taping and topping for final coat, but all purpose dries harder and is also harder to sand.
Shine a light sideways to inspect your work before priming. Bad stuff shows up easier that way.
Why is mesh tape stated on the package to be used ONLY with hot (setting type) mud?
Why is mesh tape stated on the package to be used ONLY with hot (setting type) mud?
Probably because you are not supposed to use this with mud that comes premixed. It may crack.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Check out this web site for great tips.
http://www.drywallschool.com You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Thanks , I will check it out , Gary
Hello , I think I will take the mesh back and get the tape . I have seen tape with the crease already in the center . Probably should go that route . Thanks Gary
One thing to understand is that what's easiest for the pros isn't necessarily the same for newbies. So weigh each suggestion in that context.
In many cases self-stick fiberglass mesh tape is easier to use than paper tape. There are some claims that it's more likely to fracture unless covered with "hot" mud (setting-type mud mixed from powder), but I haven't seen that in my limited experience. The fiberglass does tend to fray and make finishing a little harder, though.
Another alternative is self-stick paper tape. I've use this and found it to be especially good for corners -- always a problem with regular paper tape.
If using regular paper tape it helps to wet it first. Also, it sometimes helps to thin the (ready-mixed) mud slightly, and a few people swear by putting a squirt of liquid dish detergent in the mud.
Keep your mud clean. Keep the bucket covered, and don't put "used" mud back in the bucket.
The single most common mistake a newbie makes is trying to do too much at once -- get things smooth in one or two coats. Plan on doing at least three coats (doing four is no shame), and don't worry too much if the first two aren't smooth. Apply the least amount of mud you can with each coat, using a wider knife with each coat. Scrape a dry drywall knife over the surface of the dried mud and/or use a damp sponge to smooth rough spots between coats -- don't try to sand things smooth except a little bit after the final coat.
For corners, do one side, let it set, then do the other side. Slower, but ultimately faster for a newbie.
One place where fiberglass tape works better is when joining drywall to an 'old' surface, like plaster or anything that has any texture to it at all. Like a painted wall. If you are doing this, be sure to rough up the painted surface so the compound will adhere.
On new drywall on both sides of the joint I think the paper tape is better.
However, if you are using fiberglass rock, like densglass, and a trying to not have any paper for mold to grow on, then you should use all fiberglass tape.
Try to shoot for just using your 4" knife to knock off any ridges or whatnot on the first couple of coats, ie no sanding if you can.
Also, if this is a 'moist' location, particularly a bathroom but also kitchens, using a setting compound (hot mud) is better.
There have been tons of discussions recently on finishing drywall and what mud to use and so on. If you do an advanced search using words like "drywall finishing" you should get some of these discussions back. Most were as recent as less than a week ago, so you can limit the search that way.
I will give that a try also , Thanks Gary
Frankly, by now I think you've had more than enough advice. Any more will just add to the confusion.At some point you have to "just do it".
Too much sanity may be madness. And maddest of all, to see life as it is and not as it should be! --Miguel de Cervantes
You're welcome--hate to try to rehash everything and there were lots of good ideas (including some from me!).
Get a book -- Myron Ferguson's published by Taunton is excellent.
Hello , its alittle late for the book , like was stated earlier , its time to just do it . I think with all the great tips from earlier responses I will be fine . Can't be rocket science anyway . Thanks all , Gary
Can't be rocket science anyway
I bet there are thousands of rocket scientists are out there right now saying "it can't be like taping and mudding"... ok, maybe not that many, but there's definitely a skill to it that comes with practice. I'd love to hear a follow-up after you've tackled this new skill.
I have to say , already it a pita , this old house is so far out that no matter how ya measure its still off . I finished putting the ceiling sheets up today . And I have to say laying the mud & tape has to be easier than that . I totally understand what your getting at , I used to do body work and there is a way to smooth out while your applying to save all the un-necessary mess of applying too much . If I survive I will let you know when I'm done . Thanks Gary
It is rocket science, actually, and the difference between an experienced DIYer like myself and a professional drywaller is immense. I've done a fair amount over the years -- new construction and rehab of plaster wall houses, and I realize that I am about as good as I will ever be. What you are trying to do is create an illusion of perfectly flat smooth walls when in reality the walls aren't flat -- there are highs spots at the joints. The hard part for me is knowing when to stop the sanding and finishing. And then when the lights go on ...
The trick is to keep the lights off.
Too much sanity may be madness. And maddest of all, to see life as it is and not as it should be! --Miguel de Cervantes
Keep the lights off... and use flat paints... over a high-build surfacer/primer...
Yeah, use candles enough and you won't notice the bumps through the layer of soot.
Too much sanity may be madness. And maddest of all, to see life as it is and not as it should be! --Miguel de Cervantes