Replies

1. 
   jet | Jun 13, 2007 04:33am | #1

   Different opinions on steel against the floor in a basement but to get to the question....
   Your wall base only needs side load holding power..right???
   As this is NOT a load bearing wall I see no problem with leaving the carpet there. Provided we are talking about a low pile carpet.
   Having said that....Is it a big deal to remove a strip?

   "No doubt exists that all women are crazy; it's only a question of degree." - W.C. Fields
1. 
   Panda4812 | Jun 13, 2007 09:34pm | #6

   Thanks for your response. I'll buy the next time I see you. You are right, the only problem would be side pressure. I always say they can't fall up. The is a burber with padding, don't know how thick it is. Guess I'll have have to experiment more. I like the idea of the channel and the plywood but it is a lot more work. I don't know how hard it is to reattach the carpet. Is it easy to hammer tackless strips into concrete? Never did it. Looks like it is easy to streach the carpet to the strips once they are secure. Any advice there?

   Thanks,

   Panda

2. 
   jet | Jun 13, 2007 04:35am | #2

   OOPS! I see this is your first post.
   WELCOME!!!!!!!!
   And you need to buy the first round!!! House rules hehehehe!

   "No doubt exists that all women are crazy; it's only a question of degree." - W.C. Fields
3. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Jun 13, 2007 05:02am | #3

   How are you handling egress width windows for emergency egress?

   Jeff

1. 
   Panda4812 | Jun 13, 2007 07:24am | #5

   No problem Jeff, there is a big window in the room. This is an atrium ranch so the basement is above ground. Real steap lot.

   Thanks for your concerne.

1. FHB Editor
   JFink | Jun 13, 2007 11:29pm | #8

   << No problem Jeff, there is a big window in the room. >>

   If you are dividing an existing basement bedroom into two bedrooms, you technically need to have an egress window in both rooms to meet code. Not sure what your floorplan situation is, but it just sounded like you said you wanted to add another bedroom...just thought I'd pass this info along.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

   Your Friendly Neighborhood Remodelerator

1. 
   Panda4812 | Jun 14, 2007 04:50am | #9

   Thanks for the info. No, Im not dividing a bedroom. At one end of the basement is a storage area (mechanicals, etc.) It is walled in creating notch about 12X14. I'm going to wall this notch by continueing the storage wall to the back wall of the house. There is a big window in this area. Again the basement is about 6 feet above the ground and the window is only about 18 inches off the floor. Very easy to get out.

   Thanks again,

   Panda

4. 
   grpphoto | Jun 13, 2007 05:35am | #4

   Take a strip of the carpet up. In addition, cut strips of plywood to fit inside the channel. Shoot through the plywood and channel into the 'crete. You'll get a much more solid base. Use short strips of plywood to leave gaps for the studs.

   George Patterson
1. 
   Panda4812 | Jun 14, 2007 05:08am | #10

   I really like this idea, don't think I want to do that much work. I only expect to live here about 5 years. As I said I don't know how hard it will be to reatach the carpeting. If this was a long term arrangement I would do it your way. Actually I may still, I bought this house for it's quality and I always put quality in it. Doesn't always pay when I sell.

   Thanks,

   Panda

1. 
   grpphoto | Jun 15, 2007 04:49am | #13

   I meant that you should take up a strip of carpet just a little wider than the base of the wall. Then you don't have to reattach any.The idea behind putting a strip of 1x in the groove of the wall channel is based on the fact that I found the wall channel that I shot down in my last house to be pretty wobbly. Putting the wood in place sandwiched the channel between the wood and the floor and made it a lot stiffer. Of course, I was working with the thin stuff that HD sells; I never had a problem with stiffness when I was working for Riggs-Distler. They must have been buying thicker material.George Patterson

1. 
   Panda4812 | Jun 16, 2007 07:10am | #14

   I think I'm going to use your method, I think it will give me the best base. You say I won't have to re-tack the carpet. What keeps it from curling or unraveling? I'm still toying with the idea of the sheet metal screws. That sounded good too, and a lot easier. I have one more week to think about it. Have to start next week.

   Thanks again,

   Panda

5. 
   SamT | Jun 13, 2007 10:32pm | #7

   The Problem:
   Over time the carpet will compress allowing the wall to settle.

   The Solution:
   After fastening the track down on top of the carpet, stick a ss sheet metal screw through the track, next to each stud, just until it barely starts to push the track up.

   SamT

   Praise the Corporation, for the Corporations' highest concern is the well being of the public.

1. 
   Panda4812 | Jun 14, 2007 05:10am | #11

   SamT,

   I assume when the carpet settles I will have big cracks at the celing, right?Will the screws actually save that?

   Panda

1. 
   SamT | Jun 14, 2007 07:17am | #12

   Yep.Frame the wall first, put a screw on each side of each stud if you're doing anything extraordinary with the wall finish. Stagger 'em, one on the near side of the track, one on the far side.SamT

   Praise the Corporation, for the Corporations' highest concern is the well being of the public.