Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 03, 1999 02:22am | #1

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   Jackson: Not sure what your questions or concerns are, but here are a few random answers:

   I'm installing my solid oak (3/4" X 2-1/4") strip flooring over a radiant heated slab. First I will powder-actuated hammer in two layers of 1/2" plywood and then toenail the strip flooring normally to the plywood. This approach was presented in JLC, March 1999.

   (I carefully documentd where the radiant tubing is and will use 2-1/2" nails going 1-1/2" into the concrete. Versus the top of tubing at 3-1/4 depth. So my nails should be 6" horizontally and 1-3/4" vertically away from the tubing.)

   Other thoughts on oak flooring are presented in a FHB "What's the difference" column, circa 1997. Laminate flooring is more dimensionally stable but can only be refinished 2-3 times versus 5-6 times for solid flooring. (But how often have you refinished your floor in many years?) Laminate flooring adds very little height, especially compared to solid florring on sleepers or over 1-2 layers of plywood. Laminate can be glued down. Solid flooring (by Junker's (sp?)) can be assembled with clips and "float" held down by gravity and the baseboards.

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   Guest_ | Jun 03, 1999 02:59am | #2

   *If you are at or below grade, don't do it. If the slab sits on dirt, don't do it. The only way to keep the wood from cupping from moisture differences between the top and the underside is to put sleepers down and fan force a great deal of air through the space. Lee

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   Ken_fisher | Jun 03, 1999 04:20pm | #3

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   Lee:

   As per on grade the method of using a plywood subfloor for naildown wood flooring on a concrete slab is done all the time in my locale(SW Florida). We do apply a few moisture barriers before the plywood, such as 6 mill visqueen and 15# roofing felt. It's a very common practice and it's use is recommended by The National Wood Flooring Association.

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   Jackson_Sadler | Jun 03, 1999 04:20pm | #4

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