Replies

1. 
   Junkman001 | Aug 03, 2004 08:49pm | #1

   I'm a beliver in form follows function. In our house (all hardwood exceps baths, util rm) whereever i put in a reducer to meet vinyl  all screws are lined up neatly and left exposed.  When I was in the antique car biz, we'd line up all the screw slots on something like an interior door panel , looked neat.

2. 
   IMERC | Aug 03, 2004 09:06pm | #2

   Brass screws in dress right dress cover down lay out..

   SS finish pins from yur trim gun and cement...

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....

                                                                      WOW!!!   What a Ride!
   

1. 
   Toolsguy | Aug 03, 2004 09:25pm | #3

   Imerc, what is dress right?

1. 
   IMERC | Aug 03, 2004 10:31pm | #4

   All in line front to back and left to right... All nicely spaced...

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....                                                                   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

3. 
   WayneL5 | Aug 04, 2004 12:41am | #5

   Screws would work.  Also, polyurethane glue would work too, but you have to weight it evenly and heavily so the glue doesn't float up on foam.

   Why wood in a bathroom, though?  Marble is a more traditional threshhold.

4. 
   YesMaam27577 | Aug 04, 2004 02:20am | #6

   Don't use plugs. If you do, the whenever the next remodel/redocorate job comes due, there will be no way to get it back up.

   As the othere replies have stated -- use screws, but make them look like soldiers at inspection.

   Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

1. 
   Sphere | Aug 04, 2004 04:17am | #10

   In the chance you DO have to remove a plugged board...here's a trick..drive a screw into the plug..when it bottoms out on the burried screw..the plug will ride up the driven one, and be split. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

5. 
   Piffin | Aug 04, 2004 03:05am | #7

   I would cut it to fit, finish all six sides to prevent warp, then set it in about six dabs of PL Premium glue and weight it down overnight. Thjat way, no fasteners show, but with minimal effort and a knife or sawsall, it could be lifted by some future generation

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   maverick | Aug 04, 2004 03:20am | #9

   Piffin is right. You do'nt want to see fasteners on a finished product. I just pulled up some oak transition strips the other day. they were glued down with const. adhesive, no nails or screws. Probably been there 15 years. They did not come up easy.

   Does anybody use Sikaflex?

1. 
   Toolsguy | Aug 04, 2004 04:19am | #11

   I think I like the poly glue idea. I have a couple of 35 lb weights that should hold it down nicely.

   Any recommendation on how to finish the oak? Just Poly?

   ps - I want oak instead of marble or stone because this 1/2 bath opens out to our hardwood floors. I want a more country look.

1. 
   RichColumbus | Aug 04, 2004 09:16am | #12

   Obviously, stain to match your floors first.

   Then poly away.  I use a poly with a UV protector.... helps to protect from sun damage.  Then again... you probably don't get much sunlight in the area that you are talking about.

6. 
   junkhound | Aug 04, 2004 03:11am | #8

   My own house:

   6 countersunk flush holes, stained.

   Ready for this -- drywall screws!, then poyurethane over wood and screws.

   On exterior doors, the screws are under the seal strip.