I want to put radiant heat in a garage bay here in Minnesota. What I am thinking is to put down 1″ foam board, sleepers on top run the tubing and cover with 3/4 plywood. I am planning to use this as my workshop. What I am wondering is what the best foam would be, and if I need something as a heat sink on top the foam, under the tubing. I am wondering if cement board or even sand (I know, it sounds weird) would help. Any thoughts on heating units would be greatly appreciated.
Best
rhruby
Replies
Take a look at Roth panels--they are designed to retrofit radiant over an existing concrete slab.
rhruby,
Interesting approach, I take it the loss of height isn't a factor?
I think my approach in these circumstances would be either to use the panels that hold tubing in them designed for this application, or I would pour a new floor of cement over the foam. and then inset the plywood into the wet cement.
If Height was critical I would jack hammer up the old floor and start over properly.. if it's an older floor you can do it in as little as three hours using a rental jack hammer I think about $50-sixty bucks ought to do it..
if you can eliminate the plywood, that way you can keep the temp of the water lower an be more efficient. in the long run beating out the floor installing insul, tubing and repouring is the way to go.
or as much as twenty hoursI'd figure eight to demo it and eight to pick up and haul it plus dump costs.
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Piffin,
You obviously have more experience doing this than I have.. I have done it about three times.. once in my youth it took me about 4 hours of work (and I screwed off complaigning another 4 hours <G>) Once I did it and the concrete was amazing poor shape while it looked solid that took me less than an hour and I had it loaded with a skid steer inside another 30 minutes.. the last time was for my nephew and it took me two hours. (he tossed it into the dumpster by hand as fast as I broke it up) ..
I'll admit that when I was selling air compressors I learned a few "tricks" that allow me to bust up concrete without a lot of effort and pretty quickly..
All bets are off if there is rebar involved..
yep, there can be lots of differences for how hard it is, access and if there is rebar. I was assuming a decent concrete hardness and some steel, which is how I find it usually.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
If you do go over the old, you want to use the foil plates to disperse the heat to full contact with the underside of the ply or to use the ply subfloor made for setting the Pex in it.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I have a floor like this on my studio. except it's a tower with 3/4 ply then foam and 2x4 sleepers with tubing 8" oc between the sleepers and 1x4 t&g pine for the finished floor. Works fine considering the tower has twelve large windows in a 15 x 15 foot space. It does get cold in NC occasionally.
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