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Building a mother of an outdoor deck and am about ready to put down the layer that my tile will be laid on but I am worried about weatherproofing and dry rot. Exterior walls are cinder block laid up in five courses with a 2 X 8 pressure treated sill. Interior framing is 2 X 6 pressure treated lumber laid out on 16″ centers around a inset hot tub with a 1/8″ per foot slope to the outside edge. At various points I’ve beefed up the framing with 4 X 4 posts to keep the springing to a absolute minimum. I was planning on using 2 layers of 3/4″ CDX glued and screwed down to the 2 X 6’s then using latapoxy to adhere the tiles to the plywood. I’m in a climate where we only get 8 inches of rain a year so I’m not too worried about soggy wood, but still……..Should I seal the plywood with some sort of wood preservative prior to laying down the tile? Or do I really have to do the 90 lb asphalt paper/chicken wire routine for the tiling? I’ve done a heck of alot of work so far and want this thing to last longer than the house (of which I’m sure it will!)…….Thanks!
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Around here in Louisiana, we can get 8" of rain in on day, so this is a big no no. We frame, and lay PT plywood, and pour a thin slab, then lay tiles with regular thinset. You may be able to get away with PT plywood, 30lb. felt on deck run up wall 6" and lay hardi backer, and lay tile with regular thinset. This should not be any more expensive than the two layers of cdx, and epoxy thinset.
Good luck
David
*Sorry gents...disagree entirely. Laying tile on a wooden base is just plain..."Bad Idea". I have experimented, and it doesn't work. You have to isolate the tile from the wood using cement, or cement board. As wood absorbs water...even pressure treated plywood ...it expands, then obviously shrinks in the dry season. All the addetives in the world won't help you. David has a great idea pouring a thin slab, but think about putting mesh in it and making it a little thicker.. Not sure what hardy backer is, but if it will seal the mortar against moisture..it is a good idea. Also, next time think about beefing up the joists some. Not sure of your span but if it is more than 6' you are undersized.Good luck,Lawrence
*Hardi Backer=Concrete backer board minus the crumble garbage. Excellent product. James Hardi Building Products
*b TVMDCYou have (5) steps if you want a water-tight deck: Plywood, Lath and crete, Waterproof membrane, Skim coat of crete, Thin-Set tile. Look here for the lath and crete Look here for waterproof membrane (Skip the Texture and Final Coats)A single layer of 3/4" CDX is sufficient provided it is FULLY BLOCKED, NAILED (RING SHANK), AND GLUED. Then install edge metal, the metal lath, 1/4" crete, fiberglass and base coat, then a final 1/8" skim coat of Excel crete. You can then thin-set your tile to the 1/8" skim coat.Make certain you have adequate ventilation in the underfloor area to prevent condensation on the plywood. If the shape of the Hot Tub is round or square, you should run 3x3 galvanized edge metal around the opening. If the opening is round, cut the top part of the flashing every 2" so it will follow the curve. If rectanglar, a single cut at the corners and put your 3" overlaps in the middle. All those cuts are "outside" corners and will, therefore, leave unprotected exposed plywood. Cut a piece of 3" x 4" sheet metal and insert it diagonally under the outside corner, wet lap with Sika 1A and nail it down.As for the vertical opening between the Tub and the Deck, you can run the lath, crete and membrane over the edge metal and down into the recess. This can be done either over plywood sides or 2x6's. Then dress the edge of the opening with bullnose tile.Lot of work, but it lasts.Good luck!b CDMVT
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I am planning to redesign my deck. I am considering covering the deck with 3/4" exterior plywood and then outdoor carpeting. Outdoor carpet now looks a lot like indoor carpet; not that ugly plastic stuff of old. The deck will have no roof, but there will be a pergola overhead, covered with flowered vines. I live on a lake in Northern Michigan; fairly harsh winters and snow. The deck is on the very sunny SE siDE of house.
Will the plywood have to be treated? Will the carpet stain from leaves, snow,etc? How long do you think the carpet will last? Any other suggestion welcome.
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Building a mother of an outdoor deck and am about ready to put down the layer that my tile will be laid on but I am worried about weatherproofing and dry rot. Exterior walls are cinder block laid up in five courses with a 2 X 8 pressure treated sill. Interior framing is 2 X 6 pressure treated lumber laid out on 16" centers around a inset hot tub with a 1/8" per foot slope to the outside edge. At various points I've beefed up the framing with 4 X 4 posts to keep the springing to a absolute minimum. I was planning on using 2 layers of 3/4" CDX glued and screwed down to the 2 X 6's then using latapoxy to adhere the tiles to the plywood. I'm in a climate where we only get 8 inches of rain a year so I'm not too worried about soggy wood, but still........Should I seal the plywood with some sort of wood preservative prior to laying down the tile? Or do I really have to do the 90 lb asphalt paper/chicken wire routine for the tiling? I've done a heck of alot of work so far and want this thing to last longer than the house (of which I'm sure it will!).......Thanks!
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b TVMDC
If you use plywood, the carpet will hold the moisture and you MAY get (2) years out of the plywood. Better use treated 2x6 deck boards, painted all (6) sides with a water-based solid stain. Roll up the carpet in the winter.
b CDMVT