Outdoor Glue? Gorilla? Titebond III? Or
Hi All,
I have a job tomorrow that is tricky. The deal is it’s an exposed end of a 4×8 rafter tail that has an opening and a small porch roof. The roof-which is about 3 feet of the 8 feet exposed has a problem and evidently leaked and damed up water enough to rot out the top inch of the rafter. I’ll be replacing some starter boards and flashing as well.
My plan is to cut a slice off the top to good wood then glue some wood on top to bring it even with the other rafters. I have the logistics of sawing out an even piece ( I’ll use a 2×4 as a guide on my skill saw and clean up with a power plane) but am a little concerned about the gluing. I would like something with as short a clamp time as possible so I don’t have to watch glue dry. I’ve considered polyurethane and this would be ideal as the wood will be damp and it’s water proof to boot but I’d like to get back on it in an hour or 2 and understand PU glue can take longer to set than that. I’m, thinking Titebone II or III which I’ve not used yet and I can pin it in place with some dowels.
With the weather being a bit damp and cool (60’s) I want to avoid any epoxies.
Thanks,
W!
Replies
Gorilla Glue but I think all of the polyurethane glues are similar in performance. Gorilla Glue just did it first with the most advertising.
Only down side I know about this stuff is that you need lacquer thinner to remove it when wet. Once dry nothing will shift it. Hands will stay black for days as it wears off.
Water won't touch it. In fact if you mist the wood, easiest if you dampen one of the two pieces, before applying it this stuff will harden faster.
Whatrix,
Use the PU glue, and clamp it by screws from above, and keep on working, no delay. Using 2" masking or duct tape on the sides keeps the ooze-out off your head, and wear gloves while gluing. trim and scrape off excess when dry the next day. Titebond will take a long time to cure if the wood is damp, while the PU glue will be hastened by moisture.
Bill
PL premium...gob it on, nail it down keep on keepin on.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
In my experience PLPremium and Gorilla Glue are pretty much equivalent.
The main difference is that PL Premium is thicker in consistency, as suits a construction adhesive where loose joints and a few minor gaps are common.
Gorilla Glue is thinner, like good maple syrup, which makes it better for small jobs and the finer joints you see in finish carpentry or cabinet making.
Both would make a saint cuss trying to get it off his hands or tools once it sets up. But you already knew that.
To those who don't know how good these glues are: This stuff is stronger than the wood itself and have seen 2bys glued to cinder blocks come off the wall as splinters taking some of the block with them when they tried to remove the wood.
For some reason most times I try to use gloves they gum up or, latex, fail and I end up working bare handed and letting it wear off in time.
Gorilla glue is slowest of those mentioned and less strong, IMO, than PL Premiuim poly. since this is a structural member to be reppaired. the PL is best. A couple of nails or screws will seat it while curing and a slight move while curing will not hurt it as much as any of the others.
I would use the PL
Now then, How do you fit a small openning and a porch on a single 4x8 rafter tail?
;_)
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Thanks,
I could only find Titebond or Gorilla so I went wiht the gorilla and it worked fine.
W
FWIW... PL and OSI is made and marketed by the same people...
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