I’ve seen this problem before but I’ve never been asked to fix it. The hardwood flooring installer sets his jamb saw a little too high (with a dull blade probably) and proceeds to hack off all the jambs and casings, assuming they’ll be just fine. In his wake is a house full of gaps ranging from pretty good to a pretty bad 3/8 inch. Personally I use a Japanese saw so I never have this problem but I’m sure a jamb saw in the right hands, with a sharp blade, will do just fine.
The homeowner is pretty happy with his house except this one problem and it really disturbs him. But not enough to rip his doors out and redo them. All the trim is painted so maybe the fix won’t be too hard. Should I cut slivers of the trim and slide them in place and sand and paint? Is there a product I can use to fill the gaps and mold into the shape of the trim? I could always make my own knife shaped just like the trim profile and mold a product with that.
I thought I’d ask around before I attempted anything. I’m sure someone has encountered this before.
Sam
Replies
I have filled such gaps the exact way you are thinking. Luckily we still had off cuts in the garbage cans and I was able to get both the casing and the jamb pieces. First time around I repaired paint grade.
Second was a shot in the dark trying it on stain grade. With the stain, there was a fine line, but everyone involved was happy and accepted the repairs. The stain grade repair I was brought in as a sub for other work, I got drafted into trying the repairs. All I know is the GC's customers were happy in the end, I'm not sure if any price reduction went along with the repairs. They looked OK to me. Not perfect, but suitable in the grand scheme of things.
The trick is to get they cut so tight it's a friction fit. Still use glue and I believe I cross pinned it with my 23g pin nailer. But cut them tight as will fit back in. Vic
I've fixed a few of these mistakes by cutting narrow pieces of jamb or casing stock with the same profile and gluing them in place using a few toothpicks as wedges to hold them while the glue dries.
It can be a bit fussy getting everything lined up, but after the glue dries, a bit of filling and sanding usually makes the problem disappear. Stained jambs and casing are a whole 'nuther ball game, however. - lol
I agree with the narrow pieces. Cut a bunch at varying widths and test for a snug fit. Then glue.
I have/built a cross cut sled for my table saw. zero clearance so as not to ruin/ lose those pieces. It would get a lot harder if these cuts were on angles. I would not be inclined to caulk, messy and dirty. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=30757
Mine is scaled down but for portability. But same concept.