I have an oak built-in that a customer wants painted white as part of a remodel I am doing. All the trim and some new built-ins are going to be white and leaving this one stained is not an option. I am using BM Impervo for all of it. The built-in is stained oak with gloss poly over it. I had to think but I have never painted something with poly on it. So my question is what is the best way to do this? Chemically strip the poly? Sand it off? Sand it rough and then prime? Just paint over it?
Anybody done this where it had to be done right and not a hack job?
Day
Replies
if it's in good shape.... i think as long as you add grip to it ... light sanding and maybe a wipe'n down with a liquid sandpaper product i thing you'll be good...
let me know i have something like that i need to paint
p
search for liquid sandpaper or deglosser, either will prep the poly for primer
I've done the paint-over-poly on a red oak vanity; I used the deglosser/liquid sandpaper, then applied a slurry of grain-filler (because I don't care for the look of the grain of painted red oak).
I then sanded it smooth, primed, painted. It's held up well, but it also doesn't take that much of a beating.
soj
I have always scuffed it quick ( 150 - 180 ) , go over with degloss, hit it with Kilz, And painted.
Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
With a high gloss you absolutely have to do some sanding to get a bond, but no need to sand all the way down 120 or 150 grit enough to scuff it all dull.
Big concern painting oak is that the grain and open pores create flaws in the finish. Is there enough ploy to have filled the pores and grain? If not, you would need some sort of texture filling body to work in and then sand again.
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Thanks all,
The oak is around 80 years old and very tight grained so it has a smooth surface. It is almost a shame to paint this wood. There was a mish-mash of trim throughout this Craftsman bungalow that I am in and I have replaced most of it. I had to mate up some new oak to this old built-in because there had been some damage and older attempts at repair that were not done well and the new wood does not match in grain or color. I will put filler on this of course but I don't think I will have to fill the old stuffI'll let you know how it turns out in a few days.Day
In addition to pore filler and sanding, you should do a good wash with spirits and one with alcohol. You don't know what they have cleaned or polished the cabinet with. I did a kitchen where we scuffed with 120 grit on the surface. After the primer, all the pore were quite apparent and there were many spots the primer did not stick. I was using Sherwin Williams SF-1. Whatever the cabinets were cleaned with prevented bonding. So give a good wipe to remove any products that might be on the surface.
Bruce
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.
Light sand it (something like 320 grit), prime (I prefer Zinser oil), and finish coat with your choice. Apply the finish coat within a few days of priming for best results.
I used to use Kalvanize water-based enamel for a top coat. It's hard and tough, but it stays slightly tacky for a looonnnnggg time. Mt favorite these days is the top-of-the-line Benjamin Moore high-gloss water-base. It's nearly $50 a gallon here, though.