I’ve been ask to bid an interior painting job. Is there a rule of thumb for doing so? I was told $100 per gallon, does that include labor & paint, just labor or what?
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I charge by the stroke...oh, wait...that was a different job.
Never mind.
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
you must not have made much $ for such a short job
Heh!
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
How can you be rusty then?
Tom
$100 per gallon...hmmm. It isn't unusual for a gallon to cover 400 sq feet. So let's assume that.
So $100 per gallon comes to .25¢ per square foot. At 300 sq. ft. per gallon, .34¢ per square foot.
I might consider painting for that if the job requires absolutely no prep (in other words, if they don't want it done correctly), and I'm going to get the same rate for the second coat if it needs it. Also, the paint could not be included in that price.
The last time I painted, I believe I priced it at $1.00 per square foot plus the paint. But that includes washing all surfaces, patching, priming, second coat if it's needed. Also, I hate to paint, so I didn't care if I was too high. I'm wondering if next time I will charge $1.25.
On second thought, I really hate to paint, so no way would I take the $100 per gallon.
Another day, another tool.
I like your train of thought. If it was wide open commercial space, heck, you'd make $90 an hour with a roller. But if it was cutting in all day in some tight little bath . . .
This will hurt your head (which is fair, since I've got a whammie at the moment) new construction here, painters pretty much linger around 53-55 cents a sf, 2 coats, including paint. How does a guy afford a pump? Or was that rustys territory. . ."The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
Bathrooms and closets, I hate painting either.
Question for more experienced painters,
I understand the differences in the bristles of brushes made for oil and for latex.
Question is, does it make that much of a difference that I would be able to tell using a Purdy oil brush for oil and a Purdy latex brush for latex versus a Purdy brush that claims to be for all paints?
I do not paint everyday and good brushes are expensive, Just wondering if its worth owning a set for oil and latex
Edited 4/30/2003 9:33:05 PM ET by CAG
CAG, I am not a professional painter but I have done my fair share of painting. Let me tell you this, only cheap brushes are expensive and good brushes are cheap. So I would definitely get two sets of good brushes.
Tom
Tom thanks,
The Purdy's I have are the same price as the ones made specifically for oil/latex paints, I maintain them well and haven't had a problem,
But always wondered what the difference was
One thing I'm starting to notice about the Purdy and Baker brushes is that they seem to last much longer than the next lower tier of tools.
But buying them is a little confusing: right now I have a few Purdy XL-Glide and XL-Dale brushes, those are the latex-type brushes with the copper ferrule, but I see they have several others listed for latex paint, one even labeled "pro" with a stainless steel ferrule, but no-one I've talked to can describe what the differences between the several lines of Purdy brushes really are.
Maybe we could use an article in the mag that goes deep into paint brush technology and all the implications of thickness, bristle length, etc. for those of us who will never serve a painter's apprentiseship..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Yes, good brushes like Purdy's last a lot long than cheap ones. May be because they cost more to buy so you automatically take better care of them.
Have you been to the Purdy site? You'll get even more confused. I don't think even they know exactly what the differences are between all the models. Just stay with the ones that you are comfortable with and give you good results. For me, I think my paint jobs are probably in the 70-80% and to go beyond that I'll run into the law of deminishing return.
For people that live on that 90-100%, it would be a different story.
Tom
I think its worth it. China for oil, nothing else feels the same or works the same. Then there's brushing finishes, which can get you in to trouble when you start putting your paws on badger and ox bristle. Pricey, but really nice for varnish. Where in KS are you? Wouldn't think some of the local differences (like pricing) would be as drastic. You can't be more than a coupla hours from here."The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
RW,
I'm in lawrence KS
I don't paint that often so paying much more then 20 bucks for a brush seems unreasonable for me, I don't mind buying Purdy's but much more expensive then that I start to question whether I need it or not.
Might look into China bristle for oil though, I hate painting with oil.
This looks like where I get in.
You will never know how good you are or how good you could have been without exellent equiptment. There is a drastic difference in the answer to your question just like table saws . Will I be just as happy with a 100 dollar skil as I will be a Dewalt or so on ?
I was having a talk with a Sherwin Williams manager a few years back . I had asked for mixing colors in white laquer . He said they didnt carry such a thing , but why would I want it ? I said because it makes me look good . That was enough reason with out me going down a list I could have preached on covering using laquer paint.
Theres two reasons for you with out taking the pulpit. Ill spare ya . LOL .
Tim Mooney
Will I be just as happy with a 100 dollar skil as I will be a Dewalt or so on ?
Probably I freakin hate dewalt lol, but on to the point...
Yeah the answer I didn't want to hear, guess I'll buy them as needed when a job comes up
I had asked for mixing colors in white laquer, Preach now, never heard of it,.
"I had asked for mixing colors in white laquer, Preach now, never heard of it,."
Its slick as snails snot. There is nothing that can match the finish laquer gives in production painting. Youve seen clear laquer work Im sure , like on furniture if nothing else . They makes whats called a tinted white laquer , and it can be color tinted. They make a sanding sealer white and semi gloss and gloss. Of course they have had black laquer for a long time. Its pigmented black is all instead of white. The quality look surpasses anyhting in the oil and latex line . But,.... Latex is cheaper and oil is really better , but neither takes> "best of show ". That belongs to pigmented laquer by scores of , 10, 10, 10 , 10 , 10. Latex would be in the 5s and oil would be in the 7s all applied by a professional to make it fair to all three.
What else would you like to know ?
Tim Mooney
Used clear and amber laquer on trim work, never heard of white.
So it looks like white paint, or which ever color you tint it too?
Right now they dont have it in bases. Only white , so it can only be tinted in pastels. Its a pretty common thig around here these days to use it as a white sanding sealer . I can spray and sad a few thousand feet a day and rack it in the garage ready for use the same day. Thats the production stand point. Its super quick. I can prime and paint all the doors and jambs in a small house in a day and be knock out gorgous with only 8 hours labor . Run for the money kinda thing . People call me to spray it .
Tim Mooney
Tim
You are right on in regards to the laquer, when the argument came up awhile back regarding paint or natural wood I wasnt aware that some people were comparing brushed on latex to natural wood. Where I came from laquer was used exclusively for painted wood work and it does and always will cost more than natural wood because of the prep and condition that it has to be in in order to spray it. Now that I have moved I see all the brushed on latex, god its alfull.
Sprayed on laquer looks good and is hard to beat.
Doug
Just wondering what your thoughts are on ProClassic since you use some SW stuff. My train of thought: lacquers great, used to be used a lot here, most got away from it because it caused headaches whenever they had to touch up, you know, carpet guy rips a gouge through a jamb leg or something, and it yellows. So anything you have to fix is corner to corner. And you can't brush it worth a darn. Then there's oil, but that's not like a vast improvement, not to mention cleanup, dry times, or feeling sticky unless you want to swelter in a tyvek suit for hours on end. But the waterborne, you can tint it, spray it, brush it, roll it, . . . I dunno. I kind of like the stuff. Let it level out, and it's a good finish too. Input?"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
There are several combinations to use in painting . The most important thing to remember is to realize what method to which application and for which job as it changes. You asked about SW . If I have a job that has a lot of cutting , brushing in any application I will use SW as its the best latex emamel out there for coverage and ease of brush stroke . Its quite expensive to spray it , or even to roll it . Still if the job requires a lot of hand work , I use it . Remember that latex primers are poor at best with wood work . Most of the time oil primer or laquer underseal is the choice regardless of top coat. Latex primer on wood makes a cheap job at best such as track work. But ,... if another primer is used , then latex is adequate, but not top choice in high end work. Latex enamel is soft compared to the other contenders as I mentioned before , and at the bottom of the three in quality. The reason it out sells the competition is because its easy to spray brush and roll .
I will probably get comment on this post , but I wont be near a puter for the next five days . I will respond when I get back . I know a lot of people use latex enamel , hech most of the hands here do , but it is the cheap enamel finish. You can buy the expensive stuff and it lays pretty flat , but it isnt a match for the quality look of laquer or the durability of oil. Nuff said .
Tim Mooney
Most use Latex because they can't afford to wait 2 -3 days in high humidity for todays lovoc oil to dry, true the oil is harder but the latex is more flexible. I use to use oil exclusively because that was the sign of a professional but dry out took to long and getting rid of thinner the right way was a hassle. Still on exterior I prime with oil then latex over. Around here 35 cents /sq.ft. a coat is the going rate for new work, so $1.05 for prime & 2 finish.
Edited 5/3/2003 1:41:09 AM ET by GUNN308
CAG, I think it does make a difference. My 2 cents............ Purdy makes the best brushes. As RW said China bristle for oil. For acylic/latex it depends- polyester, nylon, or a combination of the two. Nylon is softer, polyester is stiffer and stands up better to heat and humidity. Working on job where the trim is latex semigloss enamel and had a problem with scratch marks (really fine brush marks) even with addition of Floetrol using a polyester brush. Switched to a 100% nylon brush and it took care of the problem.
Speaking of additives, does anyone regularly use that Brush Stuff on their brushes ? Does it work ?
PS, I can't remember who suggested it, but I tried the latest fad of cleaning the brushes in conditioning shampoo - it really does seem to make the brushes feel better.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Rich, thanks for your insight. I'm fairly new to this business. It's comforting to know there are people willing to share their experience. Mike
Mike,
Your welcome. But I hope you noticed RW's post in response to mine.
Threads asking for rates sometimes get lots of responses, but MOST of the time, people are reluctant to give numbers precisely because ot the situation RW's post points out.
I responded thinking about my last paint job which was a couple of bedrooms with lots of things to paint around.
But all you said was "interior painting job". If RW is right and it is an open commercial space, then things start looking a bit differently.
Which brings us to the oft posted "How long will it take you to do the job and how much do you need to be paid for that time?"
Still, it is nice to know what the outside parameters are, isn't it.
I've been told (by a guy at the paint store) that my $1.00 per sq ft is cheap.
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.
Is that a $1.00/ft of floor space , or wall/ceiling space? New construction, when we can't get to the painting/staining/laquer ourselves I pay $3.00/ft of floor space for 1 coat primer, stain/laq doors and trim, and 2 coats wall, 1 coat ceilings. So and average 3000sq/ft house will cost me 9k to finish. It goes up from there, depending on different colors, how many built ins etc.....
That is $1.00 per square foot of wall/ceiling being painted (I may have charged more for the ceiling, I don't remember). Trim is extra. Paint is not included.
For new construction, I would probably take your price of $3.00 per square foor of floor. Since, in theory. there wouldn't be much prep involved.
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.