Replies

1. 
   S_Edwards | Dec 30, 2000 09:22pm | #1

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   Please give more information. Is this a new floor? If not, does it contain stains from oil or other sources? What is the condition of the floor? Do you have moisture? Check by laying a yard square piece of plastic on the floor. Seal the edges for three days. Then remove the plastic checking for moisture. I have done a number of floors and usually there are minor problems to conquer to assure a successful paint job.

1. 
   Samuel_Gaskins | Dec 31, 2000 02:57am | #2

   *The floors are relatively new, 16-18 months old in a house we've been in for 8 months. There is minimal oil staining in the garage and the floors appear to be dry although I have not used your plastic technique. My last house was older, 25 years, and the oil based paint I used in the garage lifted readily from heated tires, the shop had bare untreated concrete which stained and absorbed spills readily.

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   splintergroupie_ | Dec 31, 2000 06:36am | #3

   *A product i would use again is "Hot Trax" by Insul-X Products Corp. out of Stony Point, NY, bought at a Columbia Paint Store. Says "Hot Tire resistant formula" on the label. Latex, several colors and tintable white, about $20/gal, i think...? I used it in a shop where it is holding up very well even where i had some standing water from a drip, but i haven't driven cars on it.

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   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Dec 31, 2000 04:24pm | #4

   *We have products in the Tennis business for concrete. The first coat is a primer made for concrete and then the rest is just tennis coatings...Lots of neat colors including white (line stripe paint.) To be less silly and anal, just go to Sherwin Williams like I do and tell em what you're gonna do. They will set you up fine with a latex paint. Any oil spots will have to be treated though. or all bets are off at those spots.near the stream with a SW acount that is well used,ajTry SG's product too as I have never seen bad advice from that gal yet.

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   Barry_E | Dec 31, 2000 06:06pm | #5

   *Prep is the key. first check for moisture as suggested. Clean the floor with a degreaser to remove the dirt, grease and oil. then acid etch with either muriatic or phosphoric acid to get a profile similar to medium grit sandpaper. Then rinse the floor several times and allow to dry completely. For a high traffic area such as a garage floor I would use a two component solvent based epoxy paint. Apply the first coat of epoxy reduced about a pint per gallon for best penetration. You also might consider adding a slip resistant additive to the last coat for better traction. If it's a shop floor with just foot traffic a good waterbased epoxy that is made to be used on floors, should be fine and is also a little more forgiving with moisture.There is also 2 part polyurethanes or for the easy way if you just want to seal it, concrete stains. If you go to the paint store for advice, you might try asking for the industrial coatings specialist. Good luck, Barry

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   Dave_Richeson | Dec 31, 2000 10:45pm | #6

   *I will agree with aj. Sherwin Williams should be able to reccommend a product from thier line. I've had success with the water base two package epoxy coating on basement floors. I don't know how it would fair on a garage floor, but it went down over a previously painted (oil base) floor with no problem. the water base epoxy was low odor and had a 24 hour pot life so I could leave a traffic lane to get to other rooms. The set time was 4 to 12 hours depending on temperature conditions of the space. SW has an industrial coatings division that is top drawer. They will put you on the right product even if it is not thiers. This is an endorsmemt! I was a Lab Tech. for thier competition many, many years ago. Seven years of college chemistry and paint formulation..., and now I are a carpenter. good luckDave

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   Samuel_Gaskins | Dec 31, 2000 10:45pm | #7

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   What is the best paint to use on concrete floor? Is it necessary to use epoxy-based paint, with per-etching, for a garage or workshop floor?