The idiot that built my house let the siding and windows stand for too long before painting and they will not hold paint. A couple of years ago I painted the bare windows with an oil based primer followed by a solid color latex stain. Its peeling now. If you look at it closely you can seen that the paint chips have a layer of wood on them.. Thus its the wood that’s failing not the paint.
I plan on removing the paint with a paint remover, treating the wood with a preservative (anyone rember penta? I have a good quantity of it); and repeat the prime/stain application.
Anyone got any better ideas???
I plan on replacing the cheap pine clapboards with cedar. I’ve been told by several painters that the best thing to use for back priming is the stain you are going to use on the front side with one quart of boiled linseed oil and two quarts spirits added per gallon. I’m going to use Cabot semi-solid oil stain for the front.
Any comments?
Replies
What you propose sounds good to me. I was wondering if Penta in the stuff you are back-priming with would be good--or just a waste?
I like Cabot a lot. Seems to really penetrate and then hardens--sort of "candies" the wood (at least it does with the pressure treated I've used it on).
Any sanding that you do will help.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Your best bet on the claps is to buy factory pre-primed two coats.
For the windows, you need to scrape and then sand to get to fresh wood, not just use remover chemical.
If the wood is going punky, paint it first with the Minwax Wood Hardener If cures up in about 20 minutes. then sand again lightly and hit it with your primer.
A word about prep work - you should prime what you prep each day if it is dry, and then you should paint the primer within thirty days before UV rays have a chance top start breaking things down.
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