Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 12, 2007 12:42am | #1

   1)
   The valves usually end up able to be seen but not real obvious. The pedestal manufacturer provides a paper showing appropriate location for supply and drain in the wall.

   2)
   you mean blocking for mount?
   You can cut wall open to provide that and then sheet rock again over it, but for the most part, you can do without that. Let the pedestal support the weight and just use one of the many SR screw anchor thingies to mount to wall to keep it from tilting away.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Sasquatch | Jun 12, 2007 02:28am | #2

   There are two solutions here.  Notice that the hot and cold supplies are differently blocked to accommodate installation problems for a pedestal sink.  They show the blocking for both the sink mounting bolts and the water supply.  Use non-corroding deck screws to secure the blocking to the existing studs.

   This method leaves a little space behind the blocking for insulation, and provides strong support for the sink and the water supply.  Note that in this pic, I have not yet installed the water hammer risers.  I will do that tomorrow.  I found it better to get all the water supply in first.  Now, all I have to do is unscrew the drop-ear elbows, cut the supply pipes, and install a "water muffler".  The second pic show those installed on the shower valve, as well as the blocking I used.

3. 
   Dunc1 | Jun 12, 2007 03:27am | #3

   I guess it depends on the mfr's design - width of the pedestal and the sink. One that I used had a cutaway on the back (mounting plate portion) of the sink. Cutoff valves can be hidden way up there yet they are easy to get at. Came with a template with lots of detail. .. bolts go here, pipes come thru wall here, etc. Was a house brand of a large Canadian chain.

4. 
   McDesign | Jun 12, 2007 04:09am | #4

   Non-code-compliant but tricky install here - all through the floor.  S trap (that's why); stops mounted to the rigid faucet lines; 1/2" braided lines to drop-ear-elbows in the floor under base hole.

   View Image

   Forrest

   Smart-Alec Edit - also, it's a "lavatory" unless it's in a kitchen or laundry / utility area.

   ---

   Edited 6/11/2007 9:10 pm by McDesign

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/11/2007 9:11 pm by McDesign

5. 
   grpphoto | Jun 12, 2007 06:17am | #5

   > do you have to get all the plumbing behind the pedestal
   > even valves

   No. You get the best effect if the drain is directly behind the pedestal and the valves are even spaced on each side of it. The old-fashioned metal tube supply lines look really nice with this arrangement.

   > what if they not a 2x in the right place.

   Then you have a problem whether the sink is a pedestal or not. If the sink spans two or more studs, cut out the sheet rock behind the sink, being careful not to cut out any that won't be covered up by the sink. Then fill that space with 1/2" plywood, firmly attached to the studs. Attach the sink to the plywood.

   George Patterson
1. 
   Ragnar17 | Jun 12, 2007 07:11am | #7

   Then fill that space with 1/2" plywood, firmly attached to the studs. Attach the sink to the plywood.

   Thanks for that idea, George.  It's definitely a lot easier than having to patch and repaint the rock.

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 12, 2007 02:05pm | #8

   Not often workable tho. I have only done a couple ped sinks that are 33". Most are far less width than that so a plywood filler will generally only contact one stud within the sink location, sometimes two, but leave the ends free to warp and wobble away.I have used this trick but use MDO 1/2" fully stud to stud and then tape it in to the SR. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Ragnar17 | Jun 12, 2007 07:45pm | #9

   but leave the ends free to warp and wobble away.

   I hate it when you rain on my parade.  ;)  But it's better to be alert of potential problems early on -- thanks for the heads up.

   Ragnar

1. 
   Scooter1 | Jun 12, 2007 07:48pm | #10

   I put them in brass, expose them, and celebrate the beauty of polished brass. I use hard wall brass supplies and have a vendor bend them.Regards, Scooter"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

2. 
   Piffin | Jun 12, 2007 08:07pm | #12

   I suppose you could do that with some back brackets glued in like blocking when you do SR repairs to keep it smaller and joint it off-stud 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

6. 
   JeffBuck | Jun 12, 2007 06:52am | #6

   8 inch rough-in spread is standard round here for a ped sink.

    

   Jeff

    

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

7. 
   vinniegoombatz | Jun 12, 2007 07:53pm | #11

    

   most of them have the plumbing in view     looks best if u use the chromed toilet supply valves w the oval handles for supply shutoffs  (Watts brand-  a 1/2 turn ball valve style w chrome oval handle and chrome body is the best)      along w stainless braided supply lines   very clean looking, functional