I’ll try again. My last post was too long-winded to get any interest.
Is the peel-and stick roofing for low-slope applications any good?
Steve
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It depends.
Stick to what?
Peel what?
Ice and water shield is NOT roofing, it is underlayment, that what ya mean?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Never heard of peel-and-stick roofing.
Got a link?
http://www.iko.com/shared/residential/brochure/BrochRoofFast.pdf
OK, thanks.
I'm familiar with Iko, but not that product. Sorry I can't help.
the 2 brands i have used are Certainteed Flintlastic and Polyglas Elastoflex.
I consider both to be quite good for what they are.
generally on our installs we install a self adhering base sheet---which installs like icegaurd
and a self adhering cap sheet on top of the base sheet---also installs like icegaurd.
they are quick, clean, flame free---and it's often a close call between flintlastic and EPDM which is going to be the better material for a low slope roof.---complexity of the roof, overhanging tree limbs, expected foot traffic and visibility weigh in to the considerations.
typically, a roof with inside corners or plumbing protrusions are easier with EPDM.
stephen
Seal-O-Flex!
Forrest
I knew that was coming..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
We did a thirty square roof with a 1 1/2 pitch with Certainteed. We used the two layer system like Stephen mentioned over an new plywood deck. Worked great. We had five or six vent pipes and have not had a problem with them either. You do need a couple extra hands when installing. We had a team of four people for the each layer. Two people laying out and installing, one person rolling with 100lb roller and one person rolling seams and joints.
I saw it for the first time in an ad in The JLC and wondered the same thing. Looks like it would be slipery unless it's a nearly flat roof.
yes if you mean the mineral surfaced stuff like Polyglas and not plain I&W shield.
It is 2-3 times as good as old roll roofing but for larger roofs will not take the place of real roofing like EPDM, modified torchdown or BUR.
It does need a pitch so you have NO puddling of water
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Can that stuff be used on a steeper pitch?
Sure, if you want to see it from the ground. I don't think it is much cheaper than shingles though. Can't recal, nbut might even be more expensive
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I'm trying to think of a way around all the angled cuts needed on small geodesics but sounds self defeating at that high $ a square for the material.
Thanks
I'm just doing a little 3-square roof on an old addition that has worn-out roll roofing on it. It would cost roughly the same to do it EPDM vs. peel and stick. I've done a couple of small pieces of EPDM, but never anything that required more than 1 piece. This roof would require a seam and has a low parapet wall on one side, plus an 8/12 pitched roof feeding into it from above. I've opened more than one EPDM roof and found water under the rubber every time. Makes me think twice about using it, but this peel-and-stick just seems low-rent to me, though it's not particulary cheap at about 160.00/square. I just want what's going to be the best roof. IT would be nice if it was something that wasn't too hard to maintain or patch in the future.Steve
That sounds more like the kind of location where I would want to use EPDM than this stufff - like a prime location for ice and snow to pile in deep.
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I used a product called Mule Hide. It uses a self stick, or a nail down base sheet. Then a peel and stick cap sheet. Expensive, but very cool. I used it on my own house, pretty shallow pitch roof. It comes in several colors too. We used green to match the dimensional shingles on the rest of the house. One year old and looks like we just did it. Mule Hide.com I think. By the way, I'm just a framer, not a roofer, and I could do it.