I’ve got a Hardi job coming up, and some left over IWS, or Grace, or Peel ‘N Stick, or whatever you want to call it (Bituminous Ice and Water Shield). It strikes me as a good candidate for making strips that seal behind FC siding butt joints, about three or four inches wide. It’s water proof, flexible, and will stay put while you place the next piece of siding. Funny thing, I’ve never heard of anyone here using it for this.
Any reason not to?
Thanks,
Scott.
Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.â€
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none...
go for it....
there are some here that do just that...
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Nice, thanks.*Snip snip snip.....Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
GOOD idea!
I used some on a vertical piece of flashing, it slid-rolled off from the top down in the heat ..
Might be a tad thick and bump the siding out a bit. Worth a try, tho'.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
I agree, might be a little thick. Plus, seems like it would be a bit slower than other materials, like strips of coil stock. I guess I would ask, why bother? It's not like the siding job is going to be better if you use chunks of I & W.
I'm going to need something behind the joints because I don't want to caulk them (factory applied paint). I've seen tin, felt, and tar paper strips used by people on this site, but I've got a smallish roll of I & W left over and thought it would work. I'll give it a try and report back of pros/cons.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
The nice thing about using flashing is that when you forget the strip and nail off the piece, you can still slide in the tin.
Scott
I had one case of the I&W melting and gobs of running black stuff. It was like a tar job gone bad.
I would hate to see that happen to a nice siding job.
This I&W was in contact with Dura Last roofing. Something about the plasitizer in the Dura Last conflicted with the I&W.
I would just use strips of tarpaper. Slip them in place and staple.
Rich
Thanks for the warning.This is with Hardi siding coated with the Weiss paint, so I would hope the chemical soup would be quite different. I've had pieces of this brand of I&W exposed to hot summer UV for three years now with no ill effects, so would hope it would fair well under the siding.I'll think about this. Perhaps I'll use the I&W on the N, E, and W sides, felt or tin on the South.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Really, why wouldn't you just follow Hardie specs? That way you know your installation is warranteed and correct. I would not even consider I&W based on what everyone here has told you.
Throw your leftover roll in the truck and use it for something later. You've spent more time reading about this than it would have cost you to just cut sheet metal strips and nail 'em up.
I haven't seen anything in the Hardi specs that addresses protection behind factory-painted butt joints, though I havent' checked their site in a year. Has something changed? I'll give it a look.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
Ok, so I checked the Hardi site and see the attached excerpt (which must be new). I think this is my best option.Thanks for the ideas.Scott.Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
That's been there as long as I remember. (Which ain't all that long any more, I'll admit!) I usually just use scrap coil stock. Others use tar paper.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Funny thing, I've never heard of anyone here using it for this.
Any reason not to?
@@@
Usually the cost. Stuff works well; not cheap. However, you have some left over.
We normally cut up left over bits of Tyvek or tar paper. Much easier to apply. Slide in and keep on moving. There are purpose-built flashing bits for this purpose. But the Tyvek is surplus. $$
The question of chemical compatibility is a good one.
The ToolBear
"I am still learning." Goya
Another good spot for it is behind the joint where the siding abuts the azec cornerboards. We run vycor there before the cornerbd goes up.
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