I would like to see photos of homemade tools and jigs that make the work easier and improve the profitability and quality of the work. show me something
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You first, Brisket. I know danged well a wily old carpenter like you has a few innovations he's developed through the years. Give it up, brotherman.
Jim
I showed my acme door buttin jig, and I don't have too many pics of other jigs, i usually make them up for a specific job and then throw them away when I finish. I will try to turn over a new leaf and shoot some of them when I get a chance. There are far too few talented mechanics in this present age, and good tricks and techniques are hard to come by for many newbies. One of the best tricks I ever learned was from an old union carpenter and it has stuck with me for over 30 years, I call it an exray marking jig, I will shoot one next time I use it.
Well <G>, you asked for it, probably not what you meant though!
BTW, where is the "reload" button in the post window?
Junkhound,
Ok, your washing out the hole and you have circulation. Tell us more about the rig and its capabilities. Did you build the rig? Is that a bailer or spudding tool hanging in the derrrick? I can't tell from the picture. It looks like you can get that rig in about anywhere! Beautiful contryside.
Mike
Mike:
Look for a few months old thread on well drilling, full discussion there. Spudder is hanging from rig.
Message 20269.1, May 15th (haven't taken the time to figure out how to reference and old post effectively)
PS: 50 ft on the other side of the trees is a subdivision, 2 blocks further is a mega-sub, $300-$500K houses on 4500sq ft postage stamp lots. UCK!- there goes the neighborhood.
OK -- Here's one I'm using now. I'm replacing edge hinges with traditional butt hinges on my new windows. The router cuts they made for the edge hinges are of random length, 10 1/4" to 11". So I have 132 dutchmen to make, with one end rounded to match their router bit. Picture 32 shows a window with the dutchman glued in, one yet to be done, and a piece of stock with the rounded end. Picture 38 is the underside of the jig, with a piece of stock clamped in place. It has a scrap backing it up to keep it from chipping out. Picture 42 is the top view, and picture 45 is the router with the top bearing bit in place.
-- J.S.
Um, OK, this time *with* the pictures....
Edited 7/15/2002 7:10:17 PM ET by JOHN_SPRUNG
OK, here are some pix of the router templates that get the new hinges in the right places on the sash and jambs.
-- J.S.
For some reason, two of the pix didn't make it. Here's a re-try:
-- J.S.
OK, so what is all this stuff?
Picture #73 shows three of the five templates leaning against a jamb. The templates are 3/8" ply with holes corresponding to the hinge positions, and blocks glued on one side. The blocks exactly match the edge of the corresponding sash, I call them sash mimic blocks.
The first one shows the top, where the router goes. The second shows the bottom, set up for doing sash. Small pieces of ply are held onto the blocks with 1/4-20 machine screws to hold the template in place. The third full template shows the block side set up for doing jambs. The little piece of 3/4" ply with one hinge hole in it is the master that I used to make the rest. I did it on a Benchmaster vertical mill. The notched ends keep me from putting them in the wrong way around when doing jambs. Two of them are three hinge templates, and because the template is flipped end for end between the sash and the jamb, it was necessary to get that middle position quite accurately placed. The all-thread with nuts and a washer was used as a kind of trammel to extend the range of the vernier calipers for this. Those are good to about +/- 0.004".
Picture #76: The middle positions of the two three holers, one in sash mode, the other in jamb mode. Yes, I did screw up the layout on the right one and cross out a pencil line.
Picture #79: The jamb ready for the template to go in. Two strips against the stop strip set the distance for the weatherstrip there, and another at the top sets the distance between the sash and the head jamb.
Picture #82: The template in place on a jamb, seen from below.
Picture #84: The top of the template in place on a jamb. I penciled in the router footprints to show clearly where I shouldn't put clamps.
Picture #88: Jamb again, wider, with the router in place. Bags of removed weatherstripping are on the floor, lower right.
Picture #91: With the routing done, and corners chiseled square, this aluminum jig pre-drills the holes for the hinge screws.
Picture #97: The template set up on a sash. The crates full of weights and the 2x6 are there to support the sash for this job. The machine screws are enough to hold the template centered, but the clamp keeps it from being bumped out of place.
Picture #100: Close on one hinge position on a sash, from below. With the mimic blocks, I get the same depth of cut on both sash and jamb.
Picture #103: Wide shot of a sash setup from below.
Picture #106: The screw hole jig on a sash. It fits just snug enough to stay in place.
Picture #108: Steel stamps number the sash under a hinge. These should be readable through paint, whereas the stain blocking primer will probably kill felt tip or sharpie markings.
Picture # 111 & 115: Similar numbers also go on the jambs. The top single digit number is the size from my window schedule. The lower two digit number is a serial number for the exact place this window goes in the house.
-- J.S.
John, I've notified The Milk Crate Police. They should be there by noon to confiscate the crates and levy the $1000 per crate fine. Nice work on the jigs, is a second set of windows or did you manage to use the first batch? Joe H
Thanks, Joe. It's the one and only set of windows, I couldn't afford another. I'm going to hang on to the templates for that happy future time when I get around to making a set of inswing sash for the building. But that's a long way off.
-- J.S.
Here are a couple shots of some of the sash with copper napthenate termite treatment on them in the drying racks.
-- J.S.
flooring tongue and groover......
real similar to my "ride on the top of the fence panel raiser"....for raised panel door blanks that I cut on the table saw.......
but that one uses a factory made clamp......same idea......I'll post that next....
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
Field expediant end maching! I love it!
Brinkmann for president in '04
the van don't run without duct tape!
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
I'm with ya, man. Duct tape and drywall screws.
I was trying to find photos of my steam pot the other night and came across a few of a project I did a few years ago. This is a photo of a pair of cauls I pressed steamed SYP into while it dried. The job involved making quite an involved set of built up profiles on top of a piece of kitchen furniture - beads, coves of different radiuses - cool job.
Brinkmann for president in '04
Jim , What kind of lathe you got in the background?
Grizzly, with a rotating head. That's my first lathe, don. I haven't taken time to use it enough to be good with it yet, but I had to turn some big arse ball feet for that same cabinet so I bought it. Fun tool. I've had good luck with Grizzly stuff.
Brinkmann for president in '04
Jim , that is cool .I got the lathe that my uncle bought when he was 16 . It is a Delta . I tried to post a picture of the lathe I built so I could turn some pillars . Couldn't make the picture work . It is 12' long and will turn a 20" over the bed. I sill need practice, but it is fun to turn . I got a few pointers from Dick Sing at the woodworkers shop about a month ago.
Don
Edited 12/8/2002 9:48:55 PM ET by don
Did you say "12 foot"? Gotta keep trying to post that photo man. Please?????
Now I can't get any photos in this thread to open. All I get is the little red X in the box. I got photos in other threads to open. I wonder what's up?
Brinkmann for president in '04
Jim , yep 12' I needed to make a 6' post and couldent find a lathe that long. Abuddy of mine told me he had a 10' I beam that I could have to build it . I never measured it for length till I started to weld up the parts and I came up short . I just couldn't cut off the extra so I made more parts and extended the bed.
Thanks, I'll look forward to seeing it in the morning, Don. I still can't seem to get any photos to open here in this thread.
Goodnight Gracie.
Brinkmann for president in '04
Hey it worked . The drive is made up of a 5hp electric motor driving a 4speed trany with a double step pulley on the input and output then into a right angle gearbox to the head stock. The tranny is wore enough that I can shift on the go . The Ibeam is the frame and the bed is made up of flame cut ribs that hold two 2" XXS pipe {almost 1/2" wall}. I built a frame and carrage to hold my 690 to speed up the "turning" . Makes quick work of a square block that way.
Wow, that looks like it really came out nicely. It's clear you put a lot of work into it. Even the paint job looks good. I like the shape you chose for the ribs, instead of just making straight ones. Thanks for explaining the drive end; I was sort of scratching my head trying to figure out why the belts were 90º off from the headstock.
Wow, really nice lathe. I'm envious.
And now, I will ask the really important questions before anyone else has a chance to.
1. Who is the babe on the wall behind the lathe ?
2. Isn't that hydraulic floor jack supposed to be wedged in under a tractor somewhere ?
3. Where's the sawdust ?
4. What'd you do ? Use electric tape to tape those pictures to a patterned enameled tin cieling panel ? Or is that the back of an old fashioned stove ?
Don't bogart the Ghost
Quittin' Time
Luka ,
1 . I wish I knew her personaly , but our buddy Hugh sent that picture in the mail years ago
2. Not that one ,it is the backup for the other one that is wedged.
3. It is there now .I know about the sawdust monster so I took the pictures just after setting the lathe.Kinda looks like the pictures that Armin post of his snow drifts.
4. It is a ceiling panel and the black things are ceramic tile strips to keep the pics flat.
5. It cost the same to put curves into a flame cut or too leave it flat and boring. I like curves. My wife gets a little upset sometimes when I look at them too long.
Edited 12/9/2002 8:36:42 AM ET by don
Holy moly, Don. You BUILT that? That's impressive. You have any trouble getting things ballanced and aligned? Seems to me like it could get kind of exciting spinning large chunks of wood, even on a factory built lathe. I can't imagine how accurately you'd have to build something that big. Am I misunderstanding all that?
So what else have you built? Man, I'm envious of folks who can work with metal. I have enough trouble bolting tools together, but actually building stuff like that? You ever build any trailers? That's what I'd like most, a simple flatbed trailer that dumps. Just can't justify $3500.00 to buy one.
And why the heck didn't you say who you were? I got a good chuckle rememberin' "bowser bingo" when I got your email this morning. Man, I wonder how many other oldtimers changed their handles and I don't recognize them when I come across them. Talked with Chuck Crawford a few weeks ago...good guy...sure miss the old gang.
Brinkmann for president in '04
Hi Jim
I have not had any trouble with balance yet . The tranny has a granny gear ,and I have not run it on the slowest speeds yet {via the pulleys} I almost hate to tell you this but I did find a good use for a [email protected] you use the tranny to build a lathe. The most important part of the lathe is to have the centers lined up. Most of the stuff turned on this one is cut down to size with a PC 690 that runs on the track {two square tube set up on the front} ,inplace of a tool rest. The chips bounce off the ceiling ,but is fun to make a mess with that thing.
I have built trailers and stuff ,a car and mostly thing to improve what I allready have. Just build a model of the trailer out of wood You should have a buddy that can weld ,Any millwrights in your area,if you are in the brotherhood of carpenters , that could use your skill. Do some trading. Realy metal work is almost the same as wood ,just need tuffer saws and a welder, you still use your square and pony clamps.
I shortened my name cuz I hate to type . LOL I forgot about bowser bingo. My neice moved out to Washington this year near the coast some were. I miss the old web setup also not to mention the old gang.
Good. Now that we have the important stuff out of the way...
Have you actualy turned anything 12 foot long on it yet ?
What's the biggest thing that's been turned on it ?
How steady is that tailstock ? How is it locked down ? I'm with Jim on wondering just how steady the thing would be, fully loaded. Are those legs wide enough, or have you considered stretching the triangle a bit more ?
Are the speeds variable enough ? Have you considered some sort of clutch brake mechanism to change the speed slightly ?Don't bogart the Ghost
Quittin' Time
Hi Luka ,
I haven't turned any 12' yet, 8' so far is the longest.
The tail stock is fairly steady . It is locked down with two bolts hooked to the hand wheels on the top of the tail stock. I think you can see the two small wheels in the picture. I haven't had any problem yet with it falling over ,but I did make provisions to bolt it to the floor if needed.
Speeds are variable enough so far. 2 speed changes on the input to the trans 4speeds in the trans plus the R and then two more on the output. Also the tranny is wore enough that I can shift on the go .
You might be interested in this. A friend of mine rigged up TWO laths, back to back to turn a 14 ft sailboat mast.
But that is fairly small diameter and low mass.
http://www.enter.net/~ultradad/blkswan8.html
Joist spacer 12" o.cBob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
This is my laser pointer that I installed in a drilled out bubble vial on my DeWalt drill. With this set up..I can drill vertical holes into inclined handrails. This assures the drill to be vertical in the x and y axis..thus assuring a plumb hole. The little detent on the laser turns the beam on when pushed in an 1/8 of an inch.
Edited 12/10/2002 8:43:16 PM ET by Stan Foster
A picture or two of the tail stock
Unreal, man. Very impressive. What is that chain drive? You make all the parts, fit the bearings and shafts?
And seriously, why would you go to all that work, expend all that mental energy, and put a F*rd transmission on something that beautiful? Please tell us we misread that part the other night.
The chain is stationary it is hooked to the steering wheel that moves the router/tool carraige along the track . Yep I made the vast majority of the parts . I did the drawings for the electric eye to follow for the flame cut parts. I had a buddy cut the morse tapers in the head stock spindle.
Well sorry but it was free and well it isn't made by F*rd any way just came out of a decrepid f*rd the only good part. I hope that puts you at ease.
here's a stair tred jig we made from an aluminum highway sign we found...two adjustable ends with wingnutsMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
yeah, in college me and my friends used to "find" signs all the time ;) - i think there's a big "DIP" sign still in my parents' basement.
m
nice story... brings back fond memorys of building boats with my dad...thanks for the picture essay Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Hey luka did you ever get the colored glass window made?
Not yet. But it keeps coming back to mind. I was thinking about it a couple days last wee, as a matter of fact. I will eventualy get out there with a bunch of broken glass and a propane torch and give it a try...
: )Don't bogart the Ghost
Quittin' Time
I was doing some reserch on glass and talking to folks that worked at the glass factories and I think that you will need to add O2 too the propane to get the heat you will need . I was told that the glass has to cool in a very slow way or it will crack . I want to try to do something like that some day also. Good luck .
True.
What I was thinking was making a fire. Rocks in the fire. Burn it for a while, get it good and hot, plenty of coals.
Lay a piece of stainless on the fire. Melt the glass together using whatever method I find that works. Then let it cool with the fire and rocks under it.
Maybe some sort of cover for after the big melt ?
Hmmmm, I'm getting closer to a homemade kiln here, aren't I ?
Don't bogart the Ghost
Quittin' Time
Jeff,
I see you need some education. The correct term is not "duct tape". It is properly called "West Virginia Chrome".
Mark
I like that one...
on a similar note.....went to school with a buddy from Port Allegheny, PA...try finding that one on the map.....who said their town's main street was lined with ....
"yard ornaments"......as in broken down cars and trucks.....
Hey JIm..the pic didn't take.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
"Hey JIm..the pic didn't take."
Okay, let's try that one again...
Brinkmann for president in '04
mallardizing compound
Dunc,
Never heard that one before but that's pretty good.
Mark