*
I saw a neat 1X12 pine panel (interior) installation, vertically hung with 1X2 pine battens. It was covered with a semi-gloss polyurethane and looked really sharp. Although it’s probably about 4 times the price of 1/2 inch drywall, I’m considering it anyway. Any opinions about this wall cover? My guess is there is 2-by blocking at the top, bottom, and center. Should the planks be back-treated with poly (or something else) to stabilize them? Polyethylene sheet on the studs before installation or not?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Listeners write in about haunted pipes and building-science tomes, and they ask questions about roof venting and roof leaks.
Featured Video
Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With ViewrailHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Hi M, I did a similar installation to cover walls under a stairway. The contractor supplied the 1x12 #3 ponderosa pine at a cost of about .85/bd. ft. I had to install horizontal blocking between studs about every 24" to nail to. The contractor applied natural WATCO Danish Oil to the outside of the planks and did not apply anything to the backside. When I installed the planks I left about a 3/8 space between them for expansion and contraction. I then applied 1x2 firring strips cut from extra planking and installed them over the 3/8" gap nailing into the gap allowing for movement in the planks. I did this job over a year ago and have not had any problems with any of the wood cupping, just make sure that the 1x12s you use have been dried to the proper moisture content. Mad Dog M.
*In our cabin in the woods, we used a treatment very similar to that in '76, using native rough-cut spruce in random width of 4, 6, 8, 10, & 12. , full 7/8" thick.We stickered everything for a couple months and did some simple edge jointing on a table saw. Used the top plate, the shoe and an intermediate blocking for the nailers.We didn't want a batten and I knew the wood was gonna move and shrink, so we coverd the framing with 15# felt and installed the vertical boards, Gave 'em 1 coat poly and it really sucked it up on that rough spruce. Sure enough, the seams are a little open in places, but you wouldn't know it because all you can see is the black felt.About 10 years later we gave it another coat, probably Thompson's. This is a great rustic look and it has stood the test of time....but you've really got to love the rustic look because it's just that...If this were a little more formal we would have used a ceiling trim and a baseboard to sit it ON, but as it is, it runs from floor to ceiling..And my father-in-laws hunting buddies really like it.
*I have used 1X6 T&G pine planking in a great room with a cathedral ceiling. I did the ceiling first perpendicular to the rafters so no furring strips were needed. Then I did the walls vertically which required using few piece as long as 18ft. I just blind nailed the T&G with #6 finish nails at the top plate and the bottom plate and also anywhere that I could hit a stud. All the rows are done with one piece, so there are no seams. The T&G pine was place over Kraft-faced fiberglass insulation, and anywhere there was a knot that was missing I stapled black construction paper to the back. With the walls running vertically it makes the room look even larger than 12ft by 30ft with an 18ft ceiling. I did not put any finish on it, and everyone says that as the wood ages it looks even better. The wood cost $0.64 per square foot.