When first installed 25 yrs ago, there was no shut-off, bypass, or unions to facilitate removal of the unit, it was all glued in.
So I’m in the process of adding these and wondered if a one-way check valve upstream of the hard water input would prevent the resin tank from being siphoned dry (and possibly then siphon brine into the resin tank).
I have discovered brine in the lines before, but not sure how it wound up in there. Perhaps the water was turned off during the night? Ever made coffee in the early am with brine? Yuck . . .
Also on the soft water out, there was a pvc T-fitting, with a Watts No. 36A vacuum breaker on one end of it. Shouldn’t this be on the hard-water inlet side instead? (My lack of plumbing knowledge is smacking me around on this project….)
Finally, when gluing up pvc, how do you measure length correctly when you’re unable to get the pipe to slide all the way into the fitting(s) and you’re working with multiple pieces between two fixed points? (I don’t think I explained that very well…)
Sort of like when they glue up all the connections between a pool pump, filter, chlorine injector and that big valve. My situation is not quite as complicated as that fortunately, but it’s got me scratching my head.
Perhaps I’ll post a picture of it….
Replies
Greetings sleddriver,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
94969.19
In the beginning there was Breaktime...
94969.1 Photo Gallery Table of Contents
Finally, when gluing up pvc, how do you measure length correctly when you're unable to get the pipe to slide all the way into the fitting(s) and you're working with multiple pieces between two fixed points? (I don't think I explained that very well...)
You did well enough.
Use an old pipe fitters trick for layout.
Find a clear spot on the floor and do a full scale layout with blue painters tape. Trim the tape to exact lenghts between walls or existing fitting with an exacto or razor knife. Now lay you new fittings on the tape where you want them to be. Cut your pipe to the inside measurement between the fittings plus the seat depth. Mark each pipe lenght at the fitting shoulder and when you do the glue up be sure to set the pipe to the shoulder mark.
It is a little slower than just running and measuring the pipe like a true plumber would, however when you get done, your work will look as good or better than a pros'.
Edited 8/18/2009 4:49 pm ET by DaveRicheson
Since you are reworking the system, you might want to conceder running a bypass line to your kitchen. When mine was put in I had the installer put in a tee before the softer. I then ran a bypass to the line to the kitchen. This line feeds the kitchen sink and the ice maker. I prefer to have untreated water for drinking, cooking and ice. You never have too worry about bad coffee. I also ran a new line to my outdoor faucets, so i don't wash my cars or water my plants with softened water.
My untreated water tastes like a lake! Even worse during the algae blooms when it's hot. I have carbon filters both at the kitchen sink & icemaker. Coffee, tea and water never tasted better. Though I rarely water plants with soft water, I always use it to wash the car. NO spots! Never have to towel dry either, I just use the electric leaf blower, better than a car wash!
Interesting idea. I plunged forward, carefully measuring & trimming and then glued up. Got the pvc unions square on, so no leaks. From now on I'll always use pipe dope AND teflon tape with pvc threads, never any leaks.It's nice to have soft water flowing again and be DONE with this project. Thanks for the reply
Salt in the water is most likely due to a valving malfunction inside the softener -- on some designs the valves are spring-operated and can stick open. I suppose that salt water could be siphoned back into the hard water line in some softener designs, but it would take a pretty strong vacuum (and a certain amount of luck to catch things at the right/wrong point in the cycle).
I don't know why the vacuum breaker was installed -- none is shown in the installation drawings for the several softeners I've installed.
I called the manufacturer, Rainsoft, about the vac brkr. They said it was because the rinse/brine drain line could be stuck in a sewer and could potentially siphon water from the sewer back through the unit IF the water pressure was cutoff AND the unit happened to be at the right point in the cycle (and valve in the right position)to allow that to happen.Thus it was to protect the water supply. I explained that in my situation, it drained on the ground! I reinstalled it anyway.Re: Brine in the water line . . he said too much water in the brine tank could cause this, so would an interruption of the cycle due to loss of power or water. After removing the valve body from the resin tank, I don't see how the tank could be siphoned dry as there is no tube that runs all the way to the bottom, plus the valve would have to be in the right place.Since I'm the original owner of this 25yr old unit, anything that touches water is warranted. I had them come out and replace orings, brine injector, small valves, grease the cams that control the valve, etc. No brine-in-the-line since. Time will tell. Thanks for the reply.
That doesn't explain a vacuum breaker on the soft water line. On the units I've seen there is a built-in vacuum breaker on the brine drain line. If you wanted another breaker it would go on the hard water line coming in.
As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz