Replies

1. 
   WorkshopJon | Apr 22, 2004 08:45pm | #1

   Wpk,

   $2000.00.  I'll be right over.

   Really, $40. in mtrls. and an hour of time, two if it's your first one.

   Jon

   View Image

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/22/2004 2:55 pm ET by WorkshopJon

2. 
   WayneL5 | Apr 23, 2004 12:48am | #2

   Just add the three valves shown in the previous sketch.  The two that would eventually go to the softener would be capped off, and the bypass left open to supply the house in the meantime.

   The sketch is simplified.  You also want the water to all your outdoor faucets to branch off before the softener.  Softening lawn-watering water wastes a lot of money and salt.

   Also, some people don't like the taste of softened water.  The harder your water the more softening alters the taste.  Such people run a non-softened line to the cold water faucet for the kitchen sink, and/or to the water connection on the refrigerator.

   You also need a drain for the backwash water to go to.  You can't hard pipe to a drain because you wouldn't want a sewer back up to back up into the softener.   So, there has to be an air gap between the softener drain pipe and the building drain line.

   There also needs to be an unswitched (always on) electrical outlet within about 6 feet of the softener so you can plug in the controls.

1. 
   JohnSprung | Apr 23, 2004 01:37am | #3

   Missing also is a water pressure regulator, most houses here have them.  After the meter it's customary to run high pressure to a hose bib or two, then the regulator before all the indoor plumbing.  If you're doing your own, splurge on a $8 pressure gauge right after the regulator so you can be sure it's working and you can adjust it easily if needed.  Also consider an expansion tank to keep the water heater from increasing the pressure after the regulator.

   -- J.S.

1. 
   WorkshopJon | Apr 23, 2004 02:14am | #4

   "Missing also is a water pressure regulator, most houses here have them"

   John,

   Good point, but regardless of having a softener or not, he should have one.

   Jon

   Edited 4/22/2004 7:14 pm ET by WorkshopJon

1. 
   WayneL5 | Apr 23, 2004 03:06am | #5

   Not necessarily.  A pressure regulator is only needed if the pressure is too high for the house.  If the incoming supply is only 80 psi or so, no reduction is needed.  If the pressure is low, say below 50, adding a regulator will only add resistance, which will make the flow worse.

   Municipalities regulate pressure.  If the pressure is proper where the house is built, a regulator is at least a waste of money, and could cause problems.

2. 
   wkp | Apr 23, 2004 08:46am | #8

   Wayne,

   Thanks for the response!  Please see my response to Dan, any other advice is appreciated!

   WKP

3. 
   DanH | Apr 23, 2004 05:28am | #6

   $2000 is crazed, just for the hookup ability. $40 of materials (if you get decent quality valves) and $25-100 labor is closer. Add more if you want hard water to exterior faucets and maybe the kitchen faucet, but that's maybe another $100, unless we're talking a castle.

1. 
   wkp | Apr 23, 2004 08:14am | #7

   Dan,

   Your response (and all the others) is exactly what I thought.  I am building my first house and this is what one of the plumbing contractors used to explain a very expensive bid.  Seemed nuts to me,  but I wanted to check it out before I opened my mouth.  It looks like I need to get some more bids.  I really appreciate ya'll taking the time to respond.

   WKP