Hi All,
I’m moving my kitchen sink to the other side of the room so drain pipes (and water lines) will all be new. My sink is a double basin with drains spaced around 16″ apart. I am planning on running a 2″ drain to the sink that will not be in the wall but will come up from the floor. Someone told me to center the drain pipe but if I use an s-trap I won’t be able to reach it. I did pick-up an s-trap kit and noticed it only extends about 7″ when “fully-open” so if I do put the drain pipe in the middle and towards the back I won’t be able to reach it with the s-kit. Does this make sense?
Should I use a p-trap instead like they use for draining into a wall since it will go further horizontally?
Also, should I install an air admittance valve even though I don’t have drain problems now? If so, the p-trap would make sense since I could put a “t” on the 2″ pipe that comes out of the floor and install the air admittance valve on top and connect the horizontal tap to the drain. Does this make sense to anyone?
Also, is there any difference in how well the sink drains if I used a “T” drain when connecting both drains together? That is the one where both drains come together in the middle.
Thanks,
Frank
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Replies
Have you thought about how this will be vented?
Scott.
methinks an S trap is illegal....
You're right.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
This assumes you're not installing a garbage disposal...
Tie the two sink drains together with an "end-outlet continuous waste" fitting. Bring the drain line up through the cabinet floor about 10 inches or so behind the center line of the continuous waste outlet pipe and offset about 2 inches right of left of that center line.
Use a p-trap into a tee in the drain line and continue piping off the top of the tee over to the rear corner of the cabinet and up between the sink and cabinet wall. Install an air admittance valve on the top end of that pipe.
Don't use an s-trap, they have a tendency to siphon so sewer gas can come back into the house.
S traps are illegal here.
Don't know about your neck of the woods
sully
Like this. Use a tailpiece in place of disposal if you aren't installing one.
View Image
A La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.
Ah,....!
A picture is worth a thousand words.
Your AAV is suppose to be higher than the flood line.
I know that the flood line is the top rim of the sink so you can't stick it through your counter top, but moving it up as close to the underside of the top would be safer.
Otherwise, neat and professional work.
Your AAV is suppose to be higher than the flood line.
You're correct and I should have commented on that. I raised the AAV position after installing the faucet... not much clearance to work in with that vent pipe in the way.
A La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.
BTDT
The IPC and the manufacturers of AAV's do not require the AAV to be above the flood rim if the AAV serves an individual fixture or a branch drain--only stack-type AAV's are required to be 6" above the flood rim. The AAV that serves an individual or branch drain is required to be only 4" above the horizontal branch or fixture drain. This also makes it a little easier to service or replace.
But maybe your local jurisdiction has added to the requirement? Or maybe you prefer to exceed the code.
In answer to the OP original question, I would also recommend Hackinatit's method. This will give you the option of adding a disposer. What the picture does not show is that the tee probably has a baffle inside to force the disposer drainage to go down, and prevent forced drainage from the disposer from rising in the other sink bowl.
When they are allowed here (it takes prior approval by the AHJ) they are required to be above the flood plane.
what i would do differently is put in a clean out and grade the dw drain to the disposal and install a air hammer to dw hot water line also i would use escutions on my pipes.
Edited 6/12/2009 8:42 pm ET by jej
Thanks to all for the help! I like the dwgs and it is easy to see what you guys are talking about.
Thanks again,
Frank
Yep...
the drain now slopes to the DW,
the pipes/conduit holes are caulked... and escucheons, while pretty, aren't needed,
Hammer arrestors under the floor.
View ImageA La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.
In my neck of the woods this set up would not work.
The disposal should waste directly into the P trap through a T instead of wasting through the lateral tubular drain and then into the T.
sully
Why is the DW flex drain causing so many problems here?
Dishwasher to disposal to extension to diverting tee to p-trap to 2" drain...
the disposal doesn't use the flex hose as the drain. It also grinds any matter that is pumped from the dishwasher before sending it into the trap.
A La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.
"the disposal doesn't use the flex hose as the drain. It also grinds any matter that is pumped from the dishwasher before sending it into the trap."My thought on that is that if it can get through that 1/2" corrugated tube than it can go through 1 1/2" drain without any more help.Mine and many that I see have the DW connected to the tailpiece on the other side of the sink..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Valid point... but does that invalidate mine?A La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.
I posted that because I did not know where this came from."Why is the DW flex drain causing so many problems here?".
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
No, I didn't mean that the disposal wastes through the flex tube. I know the DW wastes through that tube into the disposal.
What I was talking about was the fact that the disposal should waste into the Ptrap directly through a baffled T instead of having the lateral 1 1/2" tubular attached to the disposal and then going through the T and Ptrap.
Has to do with scouring the trap out correctly.
sully
How would you connect the disposer to the baffle T any more directly than frankv's picture shows?
I can't think of any setup that would not require an intermediate tube between the disposer outlet and the baffle T.
Sorry; I am not explaining myself very well.
I will attempt to find time to sketch it out and post later
sully
frankv,
A p-trap is the way to go.
You must have the fixtures vented to insure that the p-trap can't be sucked dry.
I will try and attach a drawing,(it's acting up when I try), of a loop vent. These are typical when a fixture is installed in an island cabinet.
A loop vent is the only legal way to vent an island cabinet in Ky. A 'Pro-Vent will work too, as well as some other devices.
In the drawing, black lines show the sink, p-trap, and a standard branch drain to the house drain. The loop vent is in red and should as high as possible inside the cabinet and usually behind the sink. In Ky., all vents have to be washed by the fixture drain, (down stream).
Blue line = floor
Green = house drain. Make shift arrow shows flow.
Since there are only 2 fixture units here, 1 1/2" pvc will do.
I hope this helps...
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