Does anybody out there know of a good pocket door frame. I’m sick of the flimsy junk There’s got to be a better way
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Johnson
Guess I've missed whatever is sturdy about Johnson frames...I have to trim to them all the time...today I dug eight drywall screws out of a frame, the tips had gone all the way through the Johnson metal studs, would've made for a nice pattern on the door. Had to file the pimples off with a file duct taped to a stick. And if the screws don't go through, just the pressure from the screw gun or nailing is enough to bow them...the best way I've found is to use a Johnson track with straight 2xs sideways...it's a 2x6 wall, but it's the best way I've seen...and besides, I've seen very few places that HAD to have a pocket door, I wouldn't put one in my house...sorry for the rant, can you tell I really love them?
Good luck, BB
Couple of good poihnts but I try to use nails and screws that are short enough not to screw the door, Billy. Notice that I said try! I still remember that door that had about twenty 2-1/2" 15ga. finish nails from my gun in it!
I really havent had bad luck with them and the roller hardware is definitely better than any other I've seen. I use 15/16" x 4.5" poplar casing most often so that probable stiffens thing up. I also glue the SR and shove a shim between the door and the frame while it is kicking for a couple days to induce a crown away from the door. That way the frame and the SR become one unit like a truss panel to lend support to each other. I do replace the frame sticks sometimes with 2by material to make a thicker wall when I can fit it in and to add light switches, but I don't notice that that is any stiffer, really.
Excellence is its own reward!
Coupla good points, hell it was eight really sharp ones;)! I look for them, now...
Tried to close a pocket door once, and it wouldn't budge, not even a wobble. Floor to ceiling cabinet was screwed to it! And whenever a door gets nailed open on one of our jobs it was cuz somebody musta turned the air pressure up!
hans,
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