Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 16, 2000 05:56pm | #1

   *
   Ed - When you say "moisture-cured", do you mean water based, or is this some industry term, or what?

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 16, 2000 09:19pm | #2

   *Jim:All I know is that it's a highly toxic finish(respirators needed) and scratches are difficult to repair as compared to other finishes. I can't really help Ed out on this one as I get into nill on the finishing side of hardwood floors. I'm sure George Carpenter can help here.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 16, 2000 11:21pm | #3

   *Ed,It is not good to put a hard finish over a softer one. MC urethane is similar to PU glue as it needs water to complete the chemical reaction in curing. I have seen it cause problems when it glues the boards together and they shrink. You get 20 tight boards then a big gap then 20 tight and so on. It is very hard though. PU finishes are much easier to apply and refinish.KK

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 17, 2000 01:47am | #4

   *Ed,

   You should have no problem putting a coat or two over your existing poly. Moisture cure poly's use moisture to help cure faster then conventional poly. Why some people have a hard time working with it is because the solvent used with it is xylene. It evaporates extremely fast.

   View Image © 1999-2000"Anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President should on no account be allowed to do the job." Douglas Adams

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 17, 2000 02:17am | #5

   *We recently used moisture cure in a kitchen because of its resistance to water damage. Whether the resistance is all it's cracked up to be, I don't know. But the finish scratches immediately and looks awful. And it cures too fast, so that brush strokes and overlaps are very apparent.I was told that you couldn't put a finish over it because of the reaction, but I will not use moisture cure again because of appearance.SHG

2. 
   Guest_ | Sep 17, 2000 02:26am | #6

   *SHG,

   MC can be a bitch to use! I still think that WB is harder to use. I always laugh when they say it's DYI friendly, LOL. When putting this stuff down you absolutely have to keep a wet edge, if you don't you're dead!The one thing that bothers me is that there is a pinky orangy tint to this stuff over a natural floor.

   View Image © 1999-2000"Anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President should on no account be allowed to do the job." Douglas Adams

3. 
   Guest_ | Sep 17, 2000 04:53am | #7

   *Well if there's a water based polyurethane out there that will truly stand up as a floor finish, I'd love to hear about it. I've tried several water based polys and I don't think any of them are hard enough for a floor.

4. 
   Guest_ | Sep 18, 2000 02:11am | #8

   *What about Waterlox? Don't know much about it. They used it for the floor finish at at a steakhouse I'm working at ......any comments? Thanks

5. 
   Guest_ | Sep 18, 2000 03:48am | #9

   *That sounds like a very high traffic situation. How often do they redo it? How does it look in good light?

6. 
   Guest_ | Sep 18, 2000 09:25pm | #10

   *Joe, you said "DYI friendly" in a post above, and while I'm sure it was a typo, I immediately thought, "DYI, hmm, Do Yourself In."

7. 
   Guest_ | Sep 18, 2000 10:32pm | #11

   *Andy,

   Sure was a typo! DYI is appropriate for what happens most of the time when homeowners use WB poly for the first time. How they can call this stuff "user friendly" is beyond me. I'm a pretty good finisher with brush or spray and WB products are not easy to use. . .

   View Image © 1999-2000"Anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President should on no account be allowed to do the job." Douglas Adams

8. 
   Guest_ | Sep 19, 2000 07:57pm | #13

   *The building is new......hasn't opened yet. The can says it contains tung oil ........sheen looks halfway between a satin and a gloss urethane. The floors are syp. I wasn't on location but I was told they sanded the floors and applied 2 coats of Waterlox, all in a days time.

2. 
   Ed_Horst | Sep 19, 2000 07:57pm | #12

   *
   We recently (last week) had new hardward floors installed in our family room and kitchen and they look great. They used a traditional, oil-based polyurethane for the finish (Dura Seal).

   I've just read about moisture-cured polyurethane from a number of companies. They all indicate that it's their toughest product.

   b Is possible or advisable to put down a moisture-cured surface directly over the (new) oil-based polyurethane?

   If the stuff is as claimed, it may have been the ultimate product for my situation, but I found it after the other stuff was down.