Hello: What is the proper way to attach redwood porch steps? Do I do the same thing I would with a table top, allowing for expansion by nailing or screwing down to the wood stringer in the middle only? Is this safe enough? The step is 10.25″ wide 2x material.
Thanks, KDM
“… if people did not die so untidily, most men, and all women, would commit at least one murder in their lives.” R. Kipling
Edited 9/17/2006 11:41 pm by dukeone
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we use 1x4 for decks and step treads to avoid that problem. I'll check back to learn what those guys in California do
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I had the same dilema recently with porch steps. These were to be painted, though, so prepriming all sides I figured would reduce some of the potential movement.
Additionally, I screwed/nailed only toward the front of the treads, leaving about a 3/8-inch expansion gap at the back. The gaps are covered by the risers, which also serve to hold the treads in place.
But I've been wondering, like you, just what the strategy is for wide, unpainted treads with no risers. Maybe, as Paul says, the best advice is to not use 'em.
Allen
Allen/All: Thanks for the replies. To clarify the step is a single replacement in a five step set. I have it cut to size and primed with oil base all the way 'round. There are risers. The whole back porch, 4' square landing and five steps was built poorly of untreated doug fir with no drain gaps in '91. There is more rot here and there but this step was the worst. I'll spray what is not being replaced with Bora Treat (name?). I can't replace the whole thing now for various reasons and hope it will stay together for a while with caulk and paint yearly or as needed. If I was younger I'd just rip the thing out and replace it using all the stuff I've learned about building things to last.
Duke"... if people did not die so untidily, most men, and all women, would commit at least one murder in their lives." R. Kipling
Would be better to cut the piece in half (lengthwise). 6" is about the widest one should go with exposed deck materials.
But given this piece you'd want to fasten well about 3" from the front edge, on both sides. (The front edge is where most of the stress is.) It would be good to also somehow fasten the back so it won't bounce, but without causing the wood to split. Possibly, if the riser is behind it, you could run a couple of nails through the back of the riser and into the edge of the tread.
I've done several exterior porch stairs here with 5/4 x 12 VG fir stepping for treads, over PT stringers. Prime all six sides, fasten down with stainless deck screws, plug holes, sand plugs flush, prime and paint, no problems with checking, splitting, cupping, etc. I can get extremely nice VG fir thru one of my suppliers--very tight grain and very vertical--and that helps, compared to the C&btr that's usually sold locally.
The screws go in about 2" from the back edge and 3" from the front edge (allow for a 1" overhang, a 3/4" riser, and another 1-1/4" to get into a reasonably solid part of the stringer), so there is about 6" of wood between the screws. Also, I think the PT is soft enough so that the screw shank can move slightly if it needs to.
After laying out stringers with a framing square you have to add 1/8" fall to each tread.
Slotted screw holes under that bung would help.For painted, I'm thinking a couple coats all the way around of a polyurethene paint would seal good and last under foot traffic
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