Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 17, 1999 10:57pm | #1

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   Typical shower pan material is vinyl. It doesn't matter if the bed under the pan cracks, since it is essentially slip sheeted. The mortar on top of the pan should include expanded metal lath (but don't puncture the pan below the water line). The thinnest part of this bed will be determined by the drain -- about 1 1/2". Else where it should be thicker to create the slope to the drain. You don't want it to slope too much or it will be dangerous to stand on.

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 18, 1999 02:10am | #2

   *conan;There are some good books/videos on the subject. I'd suggest you get very familiar with the process before you make the final decision on DIY. Michael Byrne has a good book/video out with Taunton. I recommend this.basically, as Mike pointed out, you create a watertite barrier with a membrane (vinyl, asphaltic, etc) This contains the water. The motar bed does not, so cracks are not a major factor (the mortar bed acts to carry the tile, so cracks due to motion or many cracks will have a detrimental effect on the tile/grout adhesion)Read up, you can do it.Adam

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   Guest_ | Aug 18, 1999 05:45am | #3

   *Oh, Gawd! Conan, if this is your first attempt at tile, I can't think of a worse place for you to start than the shower floor. The consequences of an inferior job in such an installation are enormous. Basically, it leaks or it doesn't leak. But, answering such questions as how long has it been leaking when you first noticed, how come the carpet way across the room is wet, is it upstairs, etc. is when the fun really begins. I'm not saying it is difficult to do, or, even that it is too much for a layman. It does demand--because of possible water leakage--a higher level of expertise than other tile installations. That you are asking such fundemental questions is good and bad. Good because it shows you seek the knowledge. Bad because you don't have the knowledge, yet consider doing this yourself. Heh, heh, you might want to practice on you neighbor's house first.Get yourself a copy of the Tile Council of America Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installations. Study the diagrams and read up on the suggested materials and their intended uses, as well as their limitations. The TCA Handbook can be found at most any tile showroom or go to their website (address not handy just now).

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 19, 1999 06:15am | #4

   *www.tileusa.com

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   Guest_ | Aug 21, 1999 10:03am | #5

   *Funny, I was reading the Byrne book on this topic just yesterday. His description is good, and like everyone here he raved about that chlorinated whatever waterproofing membrane stuff. It sounds like very interesting project ... with terrible results if you blow it. Good luck!Interesting ... a DIY with a customer? So which is it? :)Creature, thanks for the cite. I just popped in it, and right there is a gorgeous Michael Byrne bathtub tile project.

2. 
   Guest_ | Aug 22, 1999 09:33am | #7

   *Now that Conan has all his answers, let's open this up to the real meat & potatos. Andrew, I noticed it too, a DIY w/customer. I think Conan needed to ask a basic question but felt he had to protect his identity. Hence the DIY moniker.

2. 
   conan | Aug 22, 1999 09:33am | #6

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   I plan on tiling a shower. My dilemma is the shower floor (48" X 30"). It is a customer design so I can't use any mfg floor pans. THe subfloor is 3/4" OSB.

   I was planning on using a tapered mortar bed/shower pan/Mortar bead/mastic/tile process. I saw on TV (TOH or Home Again, I don't remember which) subs installing the mud base for tiling using a very dry mortar mix. Is this typical? How thick must it be to prevent cracking?

   I have read the previous messages regarding this topic from July. Would ultraset be the best choice for a waterbarrier or would the EPDM be better.

   Note: I am a DIY.

   Thanks,

   Steve