If code allows a maximum 40% hole in a bearing stud how do you put a vent for a sink (min 1-1/2″) through a bearing wall (4″ framing)?
Is there some sort of reinforcement allowable?
Thanks for any input.
Bob
If code allows a maximum 40% hole in a bearing stud how do you put a vent for a sink (min 1-1/2″) through a bearing wall (4″ framing)?
Is there some sort of reinforcement allowable?
Thanks for any input.
Bob
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Replies
Can you route the vent pipe straight up one stud bay without penetrating any of the vertical studs?
This can be a problem when you want to put the pipe in the wall directly behind the sink. In a lot of situations with a window at the sink, you would have to drill the king and trimmer stud to run the vent over to where it can rise. You see that much stud-drilling a lot in older houses but inspectors don't like to see it now. You can also end up with horizontal venting below the flood rim of the sink, also a no-no by current code although you see it a lot in older houses.
For the last few remodels with that problem, we've run the vent inside the room but behind the cabinets. The plumber runs the pipe right against the studs and makes sure the vent has some slope to it. When the vent clears the window framing it enters the wall and goes up. Drain enters the wall or can just go down through the cabinet floor. We always use custom cabs so I just make sure that the cabinet on that side of the sink base allows for the pipe. Usually that means making the top drawer about 1" shallower than normal, and we slot out the back where the pipe is. We ran into the same inspector on a few jobs in a row and that's the solution that made him happy--leave my damn studs alone.
If you're working over a crawl space or basement you may be able to take the drain below the floor and do your vent takeoff there. Check your rules on trap-to-vent distances... there's some wiggle room.
Thanks David,
Your reply backs up my initial plan which was to run the drain/vent against the wall behind the cabinets. The guy who put in my windows thought I was nuts to not just drill a few holes and put it in the wall, "ya see it all the time".
Thanks!
Bob
Or you can use one or more of these.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/HSS-SS.html
Those will pass code?
Thanks
Bob
In some cases you can use a 1 1/4" vent. I am hoping that this will allow me to pass inspection on an under window lav. against a bearing wall. What I don't know is the OD of 1 1/4" ABS.
Dean
I don't think any 1-1/4" plastic will go through a 1-3/8" hole. Your lookin' at copper.
Studer vent. If you beg the inspector, he might let you use one. A little flapper valve that only lets air in and no gas out. Needs to remain accessible under the sink or behind an access hatch. Some places allow them, some don't.
A different Bob.
It would take a handful of fittings, and might still violate the code, but you could split up the 1-1/2" vent into three 1" or two 1-1/4" to get it through the stud and then connect it all back together on the other side.
Why not just do as Mugsy suggests and use this Simpson product. It seems tailor made for this situation.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/HSS-SS.html
Dean
In the rare times, ie before 2x6 plumbing walls, eh eh,, we would double up the 2x4 studs, it made the plumbers day, and also passed inspection. Are you working on a remodel?? regardless, what's holding you up from placing some 2x6, ie, what's on the back side of the wall. Good Luck, Jim J
Doubling up one stud is also good, for up to a 60% hole. But only one, not successive studs. If you have more than one to go through, use the stud shoe.
Thanks everyone,
After some confusion with my order I was able to finally obtain the Heavy-duty Stud Shoes. For some reason you have to buy them in sets of 4 but I like the clean install (all the plumbing in the wall) and the security of knowing that I haven't degraded the structure of the house.
Thanks again!
Bob