Q’s re installing slate kitchen flooring
We’re about ready to begin laying slate tiles in our 30’x14′ kitchen, and in two small adjoinging rooms (pantry and octagonally shaped entry foyer). Our plan is to lay the slate at about a 45 degree angle from the walls, all in rows, but with the rows offset from each other (i.e., row 2 slid 1/3 of a tile north, of row 1, row 3 slid 2/3 south of row 2, row 4 slid 1/6 back north, and then row 5 slid 1/2 to “line up” with row 1 {any suggestions on a better pattern to achieve a “random” look?}) so that there isn’t going to be a discernable pattern, hopefully. Our slate is multi-colored, and we want to go for the random pattern look, believing it will be easier than trying to maintain a straight grid or diamond pattern with imperfectly cut slate – and liking the look better. If we could avoid any grout lines, we would – so are planning on trying to go with only a 1/8″-3/16″ grout joint. Comments on that choice?
Anyway, We’re laying it on 1/4″ backerboard atop 3/4″plywood, and have already set the cabinets, including a large (12’x3′) island. Since every edge piece will have to be cut anyway where it runs into a threshold, wall, or cabinet, am I wrong in thinking that it makes since to just snap the parallel lines that run in line with all of the tiles, and start laying? I’m thinking if we just set all of the whole tiles that fit first, we’ll then come back for the tedious cutting of the entire perimeter at the end. Haven’t found any books specifically talking about laying slate or about going with the semi-random pattern, but it seems to me that any more detailed layout plan is pointless.
Also, we’re planning on using a 1/2″ by 1/2″ square trowel so that we’ve got plenty of thickness in the mortar to adjust for differing slate thickness. Also planning on sealing the slate before grouting with a cheap sealer, and then again after grouting with a good sealer to try and keep the grout off the slate. Any comments or suggestions on any of this? Thanks.
Replies
A few things...
For a floor, half-inch CBU would have been prefereable to quarter-inch.
About the slate...you mentioned that the slate is uneven in size and thickness, yet you're trying to minimize grout lines. In essence, those two things work against each other. The grout line works to help blend tiles of differing sizes. It also helps bridge differing thicknesses. The closer the tiles are laid, the more chance you have of catching a toe on the tile where you have a 3/16ths inch height differential in adjacent tiles. With the tile laid on a 45, you could end up with a proud slate corner facing against the direction of traffic. It could hurt.
Regarding the pattern...the randomness sounds fine on the surface, but the more I thought about it, the more that I thought it would be visually jarring. Lay out the tiles dry to see how the pattern looks before you mix the thinset.
Thanks - My wife was pushing for the 1/4" grout as well to be safe, so I guess we will (though it is "guaged" slate, it's not perfect by any means). The other reason (I forgot to mention) that we had chosen a random angled pattern was that the walls are nowhere near square, and this seemed the easiest/only way to cover that fact up.
I bought "gaged" slate and many of the tiles were twisted. The thickness also varied. The twist varied from 1/8" corner to corner to 3/4". Open all of the boxes and sort the tile. Dry lay the floor matching the twist and thickness. You may also find that a pattern develops with the stone. I had several tiles that I thought I had to throw out but once the wife and I laid out the area we discovered that the ridges or veining went together.