Can you give me a rough estimate for cost per truss of simple gable trusses for a 24′ span and 12″ overhang on either side? The trusses would be for a garage, 6 in 12 pitch, with no attic space, no snow load, and 7/16″ OSB with 20-yr. shingles. I do live in a high wind zone, however. Thank you in advance.
Quality before Quantity
Replies
You want those delivered? Maybe throw in a purple martin house?
Do it right, or do it twice.
They have them at Home Despot for 10$ less than what BH says.
Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am an Experienced Professional!
Hey there, CAPTAIN, it sounds like you are trying to pull yourself up by your own boot STRAPs. You bidding on a garage on the side? Should we start talking about all the excitement of our own first time?
I mean, you are talking garage trusses and garage slab all in one day here.
Good on you dude.
Excellence is its own reward!
You don't want no stinkin trusses, you want to stick frame that simple roof!
Ain't that right Boss?????
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professional build the Titanic.
"You don't want no stinkin trusses, you want to stick frame that simple roof!"
Or maybe he should just build his own trusses. Some 2x4, some plywood, some glue, some nails....
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.
don't forget piffins drywall screws :)Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professional build the Titanic.
Sure,
Anybody can do it. Only training needed is to have seen a truss raised once upon a time.
I sure hope capstrap hasa good sense of humour..
Excellence is its own reward!
I'm nothing if not a smartazz :)
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professional build the Titanic.
Captain Strap,
Don't know what Boss will say, but I'd say you are looking at an approx ballpark figure of $28 - $34 per truss.
As for the 7/16 OSB, I'd think twice on that for roof sheathing.
Since it's a garage structure, you could easily get away with setting your trusses 24 inch OC, and then use 5/8 plywood or 5/8 OSB. Use roof sheathing clips to help keep your sheathing from rippling. I would definately NOT recomend using 7/16 sheathing on 24 inch center trusses. If you do go with 7/16, your trusses should be no less than 16 inch OC. If for whatever reason, you are set on placing your trusses at 16 OC intervals, I'd still look very hard at substituting 5/8 material in place of the 7/16.
Think of this, the few bucks extra per sheet you spend on buying 5/8 sheathing, you'll make back plus more by using 24 inch OC trusses. IMHO, this would be a good trade-off.
And hey, and this is really no joke...if you use 7/16, don't let anyone on that roof working that job if they weigh over 195 lbs...you'll be jeapardizing your sheathing integritry, and also jeapardizing that worker's safety...this is no joke.
Also, the cost of 25 year 3-tab shingles are approx $28 per square. I'd use those before using 20 year. Also, I would opt for 30lb felt paper (approx $12-$14 per roll, one roll covers 2 square.) In my opinion, it protects the sheathing better from heat build-up and allows longer shingle life. 15 lb paper costs the same as 30lb, but with 15, you get twice the coverage...still...I like 30 much better...easier to walk on without tearing while you shingle, too.
LOL on your garage. Remember ( especially if this one is for you) the bigger, the better!
Davo
Ok you wise guys, here goes:
1) No this ain't no side job, it's in addition to a house my fiancee and I are considering building. (It will be our first home.)
2) Stick framing is not an option, since to span 24' I'd have to use I-joists or 2x12's for the ceiling joists. The cost of the ceiling framing alone would equal or exceed the cost of trusses.
3) Here in southern Alabama, we use 7/16" OSB on 24 OC roof framing (2x6 rafters, too) 99% of the time, unless the owner special orders something else. Also, no one on my crew weighs over 175, so that ain't a prob. And of course I'll use ply clips.
4) I'm considering 30-lb. felt, but it's not a critical factor on my detached garage. I'll be felting the roof by myself (and probably shingling it, too).
5) 20 year shingles are plenty good for this application, and they will match the shingles on the house.
6) About the slab, I'd have the concrete guys form and pour it along with the main house foundation, both at the same time, then frame and finish the garage as I have time and money.
7) Yes, if it were my dream garage, it would have all the niceties I've neglected above. However, I'm only expecting to have the house (and garage) a MAX of ten years. (It's a small starter home that a framer and a nursing student/ waitress can afford--besides, how many people do you know that at ages 20 and 19 built and bought their own home?) And again, money is a VERY LARGE factor.
8) As for the purpose of the garage, it's to house my truck, my tools, and serve as my wood shrine for that rare day off. It won't be insulated and won't be 'rocked, just a window unit and some pegboard. Siding will probably be matching vinyl (I would love Hardi-Plank but no money and no match with the house.), but I will have an eight foot high garage door (otherwise my truck won't fit).
Sorry so long but y'all hit a nerve :-)Quality before Quantity
Hey congrats on the first house!
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professional build the Titanic.
Thanks bro! I think we're gonna take one of the builder's stock plans and make a few changes. Coffered ceiling in liv. room instead of vaulted ceiling (I hate those!), make living room bigger and 3rd bedroom smaller (It's my office.), and maybe make one huge bathroom instead of two tiny ones.Quality before Quantity
Sounds good, Think resale on that one bathroom though, not many people want a house with one bathroom
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professional build the Titanic.
Capt Strap: You didn't ask, but I'm offering anyway. Put 5/8 sheathing on and use a liberal qty of hurricane strapping to hold the roof down & the garage to the slab. You are in Sutthern Alabama, and you get them. It's your garage & the extra cost and time for you are negligible compared to the cost of replacing the blasted thing.
DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
We use 1/2" nom. OSB and firply on all of our roofs, mostly with 24" centers in snowy Wisconsin and have had zero problems with it. Obviously 5/8 would be stronger but I don't believe that stuff about 195 pound workers being the max up there. I had a guy on my crew last summer that pushes 360 pounds, he didn't stress that roof at all, and he carried many squares of shake style shingles on it. I sure wouldn't want to manhandle the 5/8 ply if I had a choice, though on a 6/12 garage roof it wouldn't mean as much as a two or three story 8-12 pitch. That would fall into the suck category.
The only problems I've ever seen in this area are a little bit of seam telegraphing through certain shingles, but I am sure that is due to not getting it covered quickly or correctly. It's never happened on any of our houses.
We put on trusses identical to yours on a job two summers ago and the trusses were around $35 through our local yard, which has a truss plant incorporated with it. Just simple garage trusses without storage and small overhangs, 2x4 construction.
Oh Don my man, you don't even know about how much strapping we are required to have by the new code here. Let's see:
1) Anchor bolts 32" OC with two within a foot of each corner and two under each window.
2) "U-straps" (SPH4's) on every other stud and every trimmer (bottom) and on every stud (top). In addition, the header is flat-strapped to the trimmer and the double plates.
3) 2 H 2.5A clips on each rafter, one inside and one outside on opposing corners.
4) Straps over every stud on gable end walls if they aren't balloon-framed.
Lots more, just too much to list here. I hear you can get by without any metal connectors if you tell the building dept. it's a shed instead of a garage. Wouldn't want to go that route though.Quality before Quantity
Ditto on the bathrooms. If space is a problem, at least put in a hlaf bath or maybe a shower stall/commode/sink. One bath will be hard to move later.Do it right, or do it twice.
we use 7/16 osb on 24" centers here too in Virginia Beach. Dont think its a good idea....5/8 much better, but its all about the budget right? Just use clips. Good luck.
Thanks, and we've never had a prob w/ 7/16" OSB as long as the quality of the OSB was good; i.e., some "brands" are better than others. Did one house w/ 5/8" CDX, it was OK--sturdy but the plywood tended to warp much easier than any OSB I've seen. Made it really difficult to lay down.Quality before Quantity
Did ya think you'd get this much crap for asking a simple question ???
I almost hate to give you a price, as it may vary a great deal from one area to the next. But I'll give it a shot.
If you walked in here and ordered about 10 of 'em custom built, I'd say you're looking as around $40 a truss. That may be lower where you're at, as labor and shipping should cost less in the south.
Mr. T makes a good point...............Maybe. Sometimes there are yards that stock trusses. But around here everything that's stocked is 4/12. If you find someplace that stocks 'em they'll probably be cheaper, as they're built in large quantities. You'll have to ask around down there to find out.
If you find a place that stocks them, look at the trusses before you buy them. Two reasons - First, they're often built as cheap and as fast as possible, so the quality is poor. The company I work for has a truss building contest every winter, to see who can crank out the most stock 24' trusses in an 8 hour shift. Cheap trusses, bad quality.
The other reason is that these "stock" trusses sometimes sit outside for months or years. Make sure the plates haven't backed out. If you can slip a dime under the edge of the plates, they're too loose.
If you end up ordering a custom set, check a couple of places for prices. They can vary wildly in how much they charge. You may be able to order them through your employer and save a bit of money - Contractors generally get a better price (around here anyway) than someone who walks in off the street. Or if you buy all your material from one lumberyard, they may give you a "package deal".
One other thing you might want to consider - If you order trusses, have them add loading on the bottom chord for storage. The added cost should be very little. That way you can put in a drop-down stair when you need more storage and keep stuff up there. You may not need the storage now. But it's inevitable - You accumulate more and more stuff every year. Especially once you get them little tricycle motors running around................(-:
I'm with the other guys who don't like 7/16 OSB on roofs.
That's all I can think of for the moment. Hope that's not more than you wanted to know.
Why aren't there bullet-proof pants?
Thanks much for the info! Quality before Quantity
If you really want to save on trusses, see if you can find some that were custom made but done to the wrong dimensions. BH tells us that that happens all too often. So maybe instead of a 24' garage, you could go to 25'-3" to use the bargain trusses.
-- J.S.
Not a bad idea, John. But it rarely works.
The stuff that gets messed up isn't 25' commons at 4/12. It't the 10/12 coffered dual slope hip system. Wierd stuff like that.
It's pretty rare that anything simple gets messed up. Bumpersticker: Don't Be Sexist - Broads Hate That
OK, so how about a 10/12 coffered dual slope hip garage? And think of the extra storage space. I bet it'd be the only one on the block.... ;-)
-- J.S.